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Sadly, no pictures from the day I purchased the car - way too much adrenaline rush at the time. Right now, its looking a lot better than I am!

It was destiny from the beginning, the selling dealer was Trophy Datsun. And I have seen that great car receive alot of trophies.

I'm Zach. I live in San Diego. I just bought my first Datsun. A 1970 240z. She was produced in July of 1970 and ended up in my hands 46 years later. I believe I am the 3rd or 4th owner. I am an active duty Navy RN and I work in the Emergency Dept in San Diego. I've been in the Subaru community for the past 10 years or so and am a big fan of drag racing. Original plans for the car was to put a RB25 engine in but that may change! Man these Mikuni carbs sounds phenomenal. Anyways, just joined this morning on my shift at work at zero dark thirty when we weren't being bombarded by sore throats and knee pain! She has a lot done to her already, pretty clean from what I can see. Can't wait to get some time off work to make her my own.

Hello everyone! Proud new owner of a 1970 240z. HLS3007326 to be exact! A beautiful car. This is my first Datsun ever, and let me tell you, I am in love. I'm at work right now but I will add pictures asap! First off, the car has a rebuilt F54 block with a P79 head, both have less than 6000 miles on them. Issue at hand: The PCV tube coming off of the block is capped off with a freeze plug, the crankcase breather has quite a large hose that is venting directly to atmosphere and seems to have excessive blowby, which is pretty stinky (which is funny because one of my top reasons to buy this car was no smog checks!) and this can lead to ring failure I've read.. I've done my fair share of research on this and seems to point in the direction of a catch can of sorts. So, my issue is there is no PCV tube coming off of the block, at all. just capped. I cannot find this tube online anywhere (I can find the pcv valve and hose, but not the tube). Also, if and when I do find this tube, will venting this along with the crankcase vent to a catch can solve the problem? Will venting the PCV and the crankcase reduce the blowby? Why would the engine builder cap this off? Thanks in advance to any insight and help you can provide. I added a couple pictures --Zach

From one original owner to another…. Lucky owner, lucky Z ! Dennis

ooooohhhhh yeeeeehhhaaahhhhh!!!!!!!!!!!

Mesured as good as I could then I dropped the ones that needed grinding of at a shop. Took the last bit of with a flat file.

I also wanted to mention that we have NEARLY eliminated the presence of bots and unnecessary content they bring. This may have impacted our ad revenue but it's certainly making for a site that is focused on our real purpose, the classic Z.

Siteunseen: big thank you. Dave

Welcome Joey Yeah, The stories from admirers are always similar. I owned a Datsun (pick a model) once, best car I ever owned. Wish I hadn't sold it. Want to sell yours? As far as loving all things retro, Yes we love retro. In fact, many of us ARE retro.

i have these on mine and they look very nice but the passenger side mirror doesn't really exist (at least not that i could find - anyone else?) so i bought 2 drivers side and flipped one upside down for the passenger side. i'm assuming that's what you're seeing in the pic above. the 2 problems with this are: 1) the mount angle is off, so if you're standing in front of the car you can see the passenger side mirror stalk tilts upwards more than the drivers side - not a huge deal for me but some may find this objectionable 2) the drivers side mirror is flat, and completely useless if you actually want to see anything out your passenger side other than a single headlight from an adjacent car, so i glued a cheap convex mirror onto the face of it - looks a little goofy, view is pretty distorted, takes some getting used to, but works ok.

Mornin Joey, you'll like the group, a lot of knowledge & help here and on FaceBook. Just a bunch who love their Z's

Once that project is complete, you can move on to the headlight washers that the turbo cars have ...

Awe what the hell. I was wrong anyway. Markings a "TE". Tilton engineering? "50-026" opposite end. Ga'night Jean P!

I highly reccomend nissan # 14035-E4610 manifold gasket. $15 from my local dealership. Took a couple of days though but fit and finish is fantastic. Here's mine on ported E-31. Felpro is fine but don't stop short now. 8^)

I finally mounted the 240Z style rear bumper on the 260Z. I bought the bumper brackets from @DatsunSpirit. I did need to slot the brackets slightly. For that I took a rotary rasp to the brackets. It didn't take long for the holes to line up perfectly. I measured the location for the mounts on the quarter panels and drilled holes. At that point, it was pretty much just tightening up the bolts. However, I did have one minor scare. To bolt on the right side quarter panel mount, I needed to remove the access panel in the wheel well. As I started to loosen the lug nuts on the right rear tire, I found one just finger tight. That may explain the vibration I have been experiencing over and above the issue with loose driveshaft bolts. I hope to get some photos posted tomorrow.

General rule of thumb, If there is a hole where it used to be solid, it's probably a good thing to repair it. So the next rust hole you come across, either patch it or replace it. That is about as specific as I am willing to offer.

I don't have any vacuum controls for the HVAC, so no worry there. I did. however, take the opportunity to replace my BEEP-BEEP warning buzzer with my polite "Ding-Dong" bell chime from an Integra. I even installed a latching push button switch so I can reach up under the dash and disable the chime if I want to sit with the door open and the key in the ignition. Just have to remember to re-enable it again when I'm done. I mounted the ding-dong right next to the dimmer. PWM dimmer on the left, I'm holding the Integra chime in the middle, and the original beeper-buzzer on the right. (Note that the dash is upside down.): Also note that in that pic, I had not yet incorporated the ON-OFF switch on the chime. Here's the switch: I've got it all mounted up, but didn't take a final pic yet. I'll snap and post one when I get a chance.

hard to tell from the pics, but your carb bodies look a little dirty. grit is the enemy - it will make your pistons stick, and the tiniest bit will keep the float valve from seating correctly and because the float valve tip is rubber, a bit of grit (or rust particle) can get stuck in it. clean it and try again. as for the float bowl gasket - glue it to the lid w/some rtv which will hold it in place for numerous float adjustments. otherwise you'll be miserable with a floppy, twisty thing that won't line up.

I did put an engine in last year and actualy did bolt the header before it is a lot easyer to bolt on and there is plenty of room when you dump it in. For those that now the story i will put the engine back again next week or so and will do exact same.

Be sure to use the two piece clip mounted by the factory on the frame. If you don' t use it the tire could rub through it like mine did. With some creative routing any (slack) can be easily managed towards the center of the car.

Be safe... C

i think there are a couple in the engine bay. Theres one behind the licenes plate. Others i don't know off the top of my head.