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What ignition system are you using? The ECU uses the coil voltage pulse to trigger injection. Maybe the problem is actually in the ignition module. The coincidence with the tapping on the ECU might be imaginary. No offense, the human brain can rationalize itself in to knots. I had thought of this earlier - if the problem is repeatable and you can make it happen while you're in gear and moving, the tachometer should still show RPM if it's the ECU crapping out. If it's spark related the tach will drop like a rock.

Ball joint failure is a real thing. It usually causes major damage and loss of control. So the calculation is about how close a person wants to get to that catastrophe. Which also endangers other people on the road. But in this case, Nissan has given an inspection procedure. If it meets spec. why replace? What's odd is that they say that the ball joint cannot be disassembled, when, obviously, it can be.

This is a spread sheet of what I had couple of years ago when I tried to sell on Facebook. Not many left the building…..

@Captain Obvious I'm always on the lookout for NOS OEM parts, sometimes they have the right part number but are not in Nissan boxes...you just have to know where to look. I have a spreadsheet with all the period correct cross reference numbers and keep a look out for those on a regular basis. It seems the Nissan part suppliers of the day back in the early 1970s had no qualms about selling the same part to Lazorlite/WorldParts/BeckArnley. I wont try and reproduce the coating, too many other parts to restore at the moment but will keep it in mind for the future. I will use the master cylinders with the cast in letters on my 8/70 and 10/70 240Z, the engraved one will go on the 5/70 for period correctness. The fun anomaly I have discovered in the wire clamps. Some people say they should be all clear zinc, other say gold zinc...what's correct. Again referring back to the Green BAT 5/70 240Z, it has gold zinc wire with clear zinc screws...go figure that one out as it's totally original. However the large ones on the radiator hose are clear zinc.

Seiko Watch CorporationThe Datsun 240Z and Prospex Speedtimer: New collaboration...

Hey All, I hope someone can help me out, this is a rehash from another Z forum, but I'm spreading it in the hope of finding a solution. I'm in the early stages of restoring a 71 240z and thought a chassis jog would make life easier. As of now, step one is creating headaches, as described below. As of now i have built a chassis jig/frame and am in the process of bolting up my bent 240z to it. And here is the rub. I spent countless hours pouring over the only chassis dimensions document out there. That being the BF-3 204z dimensions PDF. As described previously I was thinking that the dimensions are wrong, or my car is very, very bent. With what I describe below, I don't think the car can possibly be 'that' bent. Some framing of the problem, with a crap pun: I have used four mounting points (described from rear to front): (1) Rear diff mount (not mustachio bar), (4 lateral bolts) (2) Front mount to the rear lower control arm, (4 lateral bolts) (3) Transmission mount, and then (two lateral bolts) (4) Front Strut Tower Top ("A" point). The dimensions (that don't work): (1) Reference point. (2) 465mm from ref. (1). this one is 15mm to short. (closer to 480mm) (3) 1427.5mm from ref. (1). This one lines up. (4) 2381.3mm from ref. (1). This one is 20mm to short. (closer to 2401.3mm) To my point......what the heck is going on here??!! Between point ref 1 and 2 my car is 480mm. In the BF-3 document, there is no reference to a 480mm dimension.... The car cannot be warped by 15mm, it's all structural mounting points. So, what am I missing? Moving on to the dimension between 1 and 4. Again, too short by 15 to 20mm... So, what is the actual dimension? All of the lateral dimensions are correct. I scratch my head. It's great though as it gives me something to talk with my wife about over dinner. Thank you in advance!

I'd love to have quick jacks, but I've used a set of standard plastic ramps for a couple of decades.

I've used common jackstands for years. )n the 280ZX in both front and rear there are obvious places which can support jackstands. In the rear, I slide a floor jack under the differential, lift on it and place jackstands under the places in front of the axle where the suspension bolts to the underbody. it's not hard to find stout places that can support the stands. What the factory manual says aren't the only places you can support the car if you're thoughtful about it. In front on my 280ZX, I slide the floor jack under the cross beam beneath the engine, then position the jackstands under the stoutest place in the frame rails with a chunk of 2x4 on top of each jackstand to spread the weight out. On my 280ZX I jack up the front first, then the back. It's low enough that getting much of an angle on either end makes it hard to access the other end. you may have to slide the jack in from the side, not the front or back. Lift carefully. Push on the car and make sure it's stable. Push on it after the jackstands are in place, and double-confirm that it's stable. Patience and thought will yield a safe result.

I love the claims about patents considering that design is very common.

Your hard starting issue sounds like a problem with the fuel mix not being rich enough. Are you using the choke when you start it? Make sure both jet tubes under the carb get pulled down all the way when you pull the choke handle back all the way. Check that the fuel mixture nuts under the carbs are turned down 2.5 turns at least, and that the float levels are correct.

Need both sides

Location and price of the turbo engine

Perfect thank you guys for confirming that for me. Just on the topic of "new" systems and "old" systems I'm currently limited to the Legalis R exhaust pipes product number 750-15414 from fujitsubo themselves and the super Ex headers (510-15037) just to make sure these are the ones that would fit as I didn't know there were older or newer version of the exhaust. see the images for reference

Still don't know what's wrong with it? ;-) Every (good) carparts shop has them!

That was me that posted that photo to show him how a cracked or broken guide could cause an oil problem on one cylinder.

I apologize to @Sean Dezart You had bad contact information.

I ordered one of these plates for one of my ashtrays that was missing one, very nice piece. Quite close to the OEM unit, the only difference I could see is the reproduction is a flat piece, whereas the OEM slotted plate has a small rounded lip around the edge, at least compared to my other ashtray. Both ashtrays are from mid-1971 cars, in that transition period between original series 1 cars and later ones, if that matters. Fitment-wise, the "blade" part sits a little bit lower than the OEM unit per the attached pictures, but overall I'm very happy with the replacement. My ashtray is also missing the spring clip on the outside that I need to figure out now, along with finding a replacement for the pitted chrome rings around the lighter hole. Thanks @Chris Holt for your efforts!

I bought an N42 that had been in machine shop jail for a few years, guy never came back for it and I paid maybe $200 for a newly rebuilt head with an oiler cam installed. Put it on and went about 5 miles and the god awfullest noise came from the valve train. Limped back home and found a lash pad had come off. Thank goodness there was no damage and @Jeff 78 280z talked me down off the ledge, told me how to fix it and I've not had to look back. Runs great every since.

I have wheel and tires sets for 240z, 280z, 280zx, and 300zx cars. Some sets are OEM and a few aftermarket wheels. Most are in great condition. I set of early z cylone wheels not so hot Let me know what your looking for and I will let you know if I have it. Pick up only in Northeast NJ. Will be posting pics in the next few days. These have been in storage for 20+ years.

Thank you Gav.

Adding an update here: I haven't found the root of the issue. I keep the car at my parent's house, so it's not always easily accessible, but I'm thinking that maybe a brake line got kinked a bit during installation. I plan to check those next. If I don't find anything there, I will switch to the old booster and see what, if anything, changes.

😎

So it's been awhile since I last posted. Remember that aftermarket ECU? I found out it was bad and causing starting issues and the high idle condition. I happened to find an original replacement ECU from another 1976 2+2 and that solved my problem. I also found that the TPS was missing a screw and out of position on the throttle body. As it turns out, the missing screw had broken off inside the throttle body. I was able to source a used one and installed it. Everything now seemed to work except for the temperature gauge. This was baffling to me since I had replaced it with a new one when I replaced the thermostat and the housing. However, that one was a two piece unit. I tested the temp gauge and wiring by disconnecting the connection to the sensor, temporarily running a wire from the the connection to ground and turning the key to the on position. The gauge needle moved from resting position to max within a few seconds, eliminating the possibility of a defective gauge or wiring. This was reassuring, since I was not looking forward to having to troubleshoot a wiring issue, nor did I want to have to go and try to find another gauge. So, I purchased a new temperature sensor, this time a one piece unit. I had some free time to install it yesterday, and Voila! I once again have a working temperature gauge. Here's the one that didn't work: Here's the one that worked: And the proof:

Thank you! Oh there's rust in it, not too bad though in most places. I think that under the hatch sill is probably the worst of it.

It says on BAT and other places...🤣 https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/4161254077491653/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_top_picks&referral_story_type=top_picks