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There was a solid clue during setup...when sliding the connectors into the harness...they are whisper-tight. Meaning: Not at all. Solid money is on worn out/loose harness connectors but we'll see if banging on ECU does anything after the normal "give up and die" timeframes of 20-40 mins.

Know this is an old thread. Nevertheless, while checking the su carb set ups and other things, i found out the last mechanic had set the timing as attached. I do have a schneider 274F camshaft. Shouldnt i have 14 degrees the most? I guess my timing is really out of spec. Mechanic set as as shown in the pic. Shouldnt it be lower?

Great! Any suggestion on how to duplicate the bolt head? Thanks, Keith

Patrick Bateman's favorite song.

This was a huge help for me since I had no clue about the carbs. I'll also add mine was a hard start too until I adjusted the valves. That helped a lot.

Or Jegg's possibly? I would think you could find one on the side of the road. It's not like it's a radiator cap for the space shuttle. Your OCD is making things a lot tougher than they are.

Hey Z-sters! I'm finally getting around to addressing the hood on my '72 240Z, which had been banged up, bondo-ed and repainted under previous ownership and needed to be addressed. I removed the paint from the corners, to evaluate and repair/strengthen before repainting. (see my attached photos attached). Can anyone send me photos of the underside of a 240z hood - specifically the front lip corners and middle as shown in my photos) so I know how it SHOULD look? Buch appreciated in advance! Jughead

I had one of my masters re-sleeved, due to pitting in the bore. Works great with new seals and been trouble free for over 4 years. I'd rather rebuild and refurbish original components if they can be, newer parts don't seem as well made. Thanks for checking your clamps, I'll go with what was on the Green 5/70 BAT 240Z as it was low mileage and relatively untouched.

Ball joint failure is a real thing. It usually causes major damage and loss of control. So the calculation is about how close a person wants to get to that catastrophe. Which also endangers other people on the road. But in this case, Nissan has given an inspection procedure. If it meets spec. why replace? What's odd is that they say that the ball joint cannot be disassembled, when, obviously, it can be.

This is a spread sheet of what I had couple of years ago when I tried to sell on Facebook. Not many left the building…..

Seiko Watch CorporationThe Datsun 240Z and Prospex Speedtimer: New collaboration...

Hey All, I hope someone can help me out, this is a rehash from another Z forum, but I'm spreading it in the hope of finding a solution. I'm in the early stages of restoring a 71 240z and thought a chassis jog would make life easier. As of now, step one is creating headaches, as described below. As of now i have built a chassis jig/frame and am in the process of bolting up my bent 240z to it. And here is the rub. I spent countless hours pouring over the only chassis dimensions document out there. That being the BF-3 204z dimensions PDF. As described previously I was thinking that the dimensions are wrong, or my car is very, very bent. With what I describe below, I don't think the car can possibly be 'that' bent. Some framing of the problem, with a crap pun: I have used four mounting points (described from rear to front): (1) Rear diff mount (not mustachio bar), (4 lateral bolts) (2) Front mount to the rear lower control arm, (4 lateral bolts) (3) Transmission mount, and then (two lateral bolts) (4) Front Strut Tower Top ("A" point). The dimensions (that don't work): (1) Reference point. (2) 465mm from ref. (1). this one is 15mm to short. (closer to 480mm) (3) 1427.5mm from ref. (1). This one lines up. (4) 2381.3mm from ref. (1). This one is 20mm to short. (closer to 2401.3mm) To my point......what the heck is going on here??!! Between point ref 1 and 2 my car is 480mm. In the BF-3 document, there is no reference to a 480mm dimension.... The car cannot be warped by 15mm, it's all structural mounting points. So, what am I missing? Moving on to the dimension between 1 and 4. Again, too short by 15 to 20mm... So, what is the actual dimension? All of the lateral dimensions are correct. I scratch my head. It's great though as it gives me something to talk with my wife about over dinner. Thank you in advance!

I'd love to have quick jacks, but I've used a set of standard plastic ramps for a couple of decades.

I've used common jackstands for years. )n the 280ZX in both front and rear there are obvious places which can support jackstands. In the rear, I slide a floor jack under the differential, lift on it and place jackstands under the places in front of the axle where the suspension bolts to the underbody. it's not hard to find stout places that can support the stands. What the factory manual says aren't the only places you can support the car if you're thoughtful about it. In front on my 280ZX, I slide the floor jack under the cross beam beneath the engine, then position the jackstands under the stoutest place in the frame rails with a chunk of 2x4 on top of each jackstand to spread the weight out. On my 280ZX I jack up the front first, then the back. It's low enough that getting much of an angle on either end makes it hard to access the other end. you may have to slide the jack in from the side, not the front or back. Lift carefully. Push on the car and make sure it's stable. Push on it after the jackstands are in place, and double-confirm that it's stable. Patience and thought will yield a safe result.

I love the claims about patents considering that design is very common.

Need both sides

Location and price of the turbo engine

Perfect thank you guys for confirming that for me. Just on the topic of "new" systems and "old" systems I'm currently limited to the Legalis R exhaust pipes product number 750-15414 from fujitsubo themselves and the super Ex headers (510-15037) just to make sure these are the ones that would fit as I didn't know there were older or newer version of the exhaust. see the images for reference

That was me that posted that photo to show him how a cracked or broken guide could cause an oil problem on one cylinder.

I apologize to @Sean Dezart You had bad contact information.

I ordered one of these plates for one of my ashtrays that was missing one, very nice piece. Quite close to the OEM unit, the only difference I could see is the reproduction is a flat piece, whereas the OEM slotted plate has a small rounded lip around the edge, at least compared to my other ashtray. Both ashtrays are from mid-1971 cars, in that transition period between original series 1 cars and later ones, if that matters. Fitment-wise, the "blade" part sits a little bit lower than the OEM unit per the attached pictures, but overall I'm very happy with the replacement. My ashtray is also missing the spring clip on the outside that I need to figure out now, along with finding a replacement for the pitted chrome rings around the lighter hole. Thanks @Chris Holt for your efforts!

I bought an N42 that had been in machine shop jail for a few years, guy never came back for it and I paid maybe $200 for a newly rebuilt head with an oiler cam installed. Put it on and went about 5 miles and the god awfullest noise came from the valve train. Limped back home and found a lash pad had come off. Thank goodness there was no damage and @Jeff 78 280z talked me down off the ledge, told me how to fix it and I've not had to look back. Runs great every since.

I have wheel and tires sets for 240z, 280z, 280zx, and 300zx cars. Some sets are OEM and a few aftermarket wheels. Most are in great condition. I set of early z cylone wheels not so hot Let me know what your looking for and I will let you know if I have it. Pick up only in Northeast NJ. Will be posting pics in the next few days. These have been in storage for 20+ years.

Thank you Gav.

Adding an update here: I haven't found the root of the issue. I keep the car at my parent's house, so it's not always easily accessible, but I'm thinking that maybe a brake line got kinked a bit during installation. I plan to check those next. If I don't find anything there, I will switch to the old booster and see what, if anything, changes.