Topics Last 30 Days

Hi All, In a final push to get my 280z across the finish line and through a safety/registration for the summer after 7 years of garage bound ownership, but I've been thwarted by a stubbornly wiggly driver side rear wheel bearing. The rears had wheel bearing play that showed up in the original safety inspection. I've replaced the bearings and seals on both sides. The passenger side is fine, but the drivers side still has a lot of play even after managing to get the full max recommended 240 ft-lb torque into the stub axle nut. I took it apart again and noticed the inner bearing was able to be slid in an out of the hub by hand and on inspection there is some evidence of the outer race (of the old originally removed bearing) having spun in the hub. I confirmed the OD of the new (installed but not driven) and originally removed bearings that did have miles on them appear to be the same (to the 100th of a mm) I'm going to try to call some machine shops tomorrow to see if boring and sleeving is an option since strut assemblies are hard to come by. Does a bearing with the same inner race ID for the stub axle but a very slightly larger outer race diameter I can bore back to an interference fit without sleeving exist? Is there somewhere I could find replacement strut assemblies or something with a new or used hub I haven't managed to find yet? I imagine I could go full T3 coilovers or something like that that will provide a new hub, but I would far prefer to not to go down that pricey rabbit hole just yet. Any other ideas are greatly appreciated. Thanks.

That’s exactly what everyone needs to do.

For our Canadian friends... We appreciate it! Yes! Y'all brought back my favorite thread.

You're welcome. I'm glad that my sketch was useful. And great work on the parts. Regarding the "unprofitable time" to make them, the $/hour rate you made is more than offset by the priceless feeling of accomplishment. Unless of course you don't have a day job. Lol

Not that its a huge amount of info to go on, but I got some NOS hose clamps which are correct fitment for the 520 truck heater, in their bag, and they are clear/plain zinc. I'm working on a different era of hose clamps, period mid 1960's for the CSP311, and it seems Nissan was in the midst of changing and constantly changing, thread, head and style of clamp, and for different places on the car. I think its also a moveable thing through the S30 pruduction years.

Don't know if this has already been posted, but Urban Cowboy FTW.

IMHO, That is not a good idea moving forward. You won’t be able to access all points of concern if it’s not on the bench. I personally have gone through a couple of the “B” series and access is critical. You’re already half way there removing the shaft. Not to mention you’re going to have to rotate the tail shaft back and forth to remove and install. Personally I wouldn’t do it in the car. My 2cents.

Hooking up a vacuum gauge is somthing else that helps find problem. You can get them at chain stores with loaner programs for free.

After replacing the insanely expensive cracked windshield in our 2025 Mazda CX-70 next week, I’m going straight to a shop to get Tera Shield installed on it. ZRAuto. Claims its three layers, clear for ever, blah blah blah. No idea about price yet. If it saves me one windshield it will pay for itself. That’s the brand the place I’m going to uses. I’ve looked online, and found a couple of retailers selling DIY kits in the $200 USD price range. Might try the DIY stuff on the Datsun just to say I did it.

I completely agree with you. PDF manuals are much more convenient..

Perfect....Many thanks...very appreciated

If your interested, here is my topic about the restore of my 280zx. At first i could not find it my own started topic, under "my started topic's" @Mike i had to do the search option? 280zx 1979 2+2 slick roof restauration - Classic ZX - 2nd to 4th Generation - Classic Zcar Community

Hello All, I am swapping to a 250z(N36) fan 240z(E46) balance tube. I'm trying to figure out which throttle linkage it requires. Do I need a full 240z throttle linkage from balance tube to fire wall or would replacing the shorter "J Rod" from the shorter 260z to the longer 240z be the only thing i need. Thank you

With 12 months and only 1 digit, what does Nissan use for the last three months: "A" and "B"? Or something else? I have caliper here that has "X" in this position. Maybe the 10th, 11, and 12th months are "X", "Y", and "Z"?

Let's see, redline is 7,000 with the yellow zone starting at 6,500 RPM. Keep revving it to 8,000 RPM like you describe and your problem will eventually be solved when you have to replace the engine after it blows up! Oh, when that happens, you might want to select a different engine builder than whoever built this one. There is NO REASON for revving it like you describe, unless you have a death wish for the engine.

My Dad always preached to not put old parts you can afford to replace back on the car. Lots of exceptions to that statement but you all know what I'm saying.

The front end look great! It could easily be changed by the new owner. I suspect if he couldn't figure that out he probably would not be interested in buying a really nice z car.

I got the SU Carburetors back from the doctor. When they were done in 8/2000, with updated throttle shaft bearings at that time, there were 2 holes inscribed "inject grease". I believe the grease I injected caused the seal to leak. With the idle screws turned all the way out, I couldn't get it to idle below 1000 rpms, and I couldn't balance them. Ztherapy got rid of those older style bearings, re-machined the bodies, and plugged the old grease holes. I actually have to turn down the idle screws now to keep it running, unlike before.

time flies guys. My new alternator comes in Monday. I will try just adding the regulator cap to see if that fixes things before I swap out the alternator. I have high hopes

I had mentioned in an earlier post to seek out @zclocks. He has been a consistent contributor to the forum and welcome to questions and advice.

So @Mike , I tried to delete the old obsolete incorrect previous version of the wiring diagram (version 6.0 on page five of this thread), and the edit privileges will not allow me to do so. I'm assuming there is a time limit on how far back in time one can go to edit something? And that post on Feb 11 has exceeded that time limit? Can we change that? Or at least, can YOU delete it if you won't allow me to do so?

I got my Datsun Z Car Series Oil Sending Unit Relocation / Remote Block done! I have only one for sale now, but more are on order. I am pretty proud of this design. Three outlet remote oil sending unit block. Metal 3D printed out of aluminum to look stock and mimics the 240z, 260z and 280z brake proportioning block design. Block has 3 outlets, all are 1/8 NPT. Comes with a custom length -3AN hose and one 1/8 NPT -3AN fitting and either a 1/8 BSPT or 1/8 NPT for the engine block side of the hose. Stock sending unit on a 240z is BSPT, this will require a NPT sending unit like this. [https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137](https://zcardepot.com/products/oil-pressure-gauge-sender-240z-260z-280z-70-77?variant=32184292737137) No sending units come with this order. Pictures of sending units are just for reference. Link: https://www.m2racing.com/shop/p/datsun-z-car-series-oil-sending-unit-relocation-remote-block

Well he is a mechanic and used to also race a camaro single carburetor car. He is 69 years old. Ill guess ill just wait for the new parts to arrive.

A possibility of fuel starvation. The end of the return of the fuel rail is restricted so there is some back pressure on the supply side to the carbs. If the lines were reversed that back pressure won't be there to feed the carbs.

I did but to no avail. I even ended up blasting the old grease/dirt out with brake cleaner and then relubing it with sprayable silicone lubricant but the squeak didn't go away