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About tymarbry

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    Kansas City

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  1. as an update he is sending me a replacement wilwood MC and cover the shipping for the returned part.
  2. Well as an update, I have gotten an email from him apologizing for the troubles. And that I will get a replacement master cylinder. I hope it does work out. because I want there to be support for our community and I want these cars to be used and not just left in a field or thrown away. These cars deliver a driving experience like no other car ive owned.
  3. I know that there will probably be a large backlash from the community but its my opinion and experience on here, so don't get all hot and bothered from this. I was looking at a rear disc upgrade for my 280z (240sx brakes upgrade). And the price seemed ok enough that it prompted me to buy seeing that most people had good things to say about the company. While I was at it I purchased the 1" Wilwood tandem brake Master cylinder also so that I could put good power to the new brakes and see some improvement. I waited the 5 odd days for it to arrive in KS and did a check on all the parts and pieces
  4. Does anyone know of the sizes of the brake lines for our Z cars? The line running from my master cylinder to the Distribution block/proportioning block thing is rounded off and needs to be replaced. I need a replacement and don't know the pitch of the threads and such. Id like to see if anyone knows the answer instead of me taking off the one in my car and having brake fluid leak all over...
  5. The alternator was a refurbished 1980 280zx hitachi. And this is the write up I went by. http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/ It's the atlanticz writeup.
  6. I've recently had issues with my 77' 280z not charging and stalling and dying while I drove it. I just got a new battery from oreilly so I figured it was the alternator and I also figured this would be a good opportunity to do the ZX alternator upgrade. Bought a refurbished ZX alternator and followed the write up to the letter. But when I tried to connect the negative cable back to the battery one of the fusible links fried. After the fusible link finally stopped I decided to try and start the car anyways. It started up and ran kinda rough, but it ran. Downside is the turn signals, parking
  7. ahhh im so stupid yeah i forgot about locking the gears in place when placing the bell on... ill try it and get back if bad news. thanks
  8. Ive recently picked up a 86' 300zx non-turbo trans (5speed) nd I have the 77' 280z bellhousing on it. but with the bellhousing on it will not shift into any gears except 5th (Possibly reverse if its a dogleg or whatever they call it). So what could be a problem? The shift rods clear the rod holes in the bellhousing and everything. but it wont shift. with the bellhousing off though, it shifts fairly well. any help would be great as I need this car running for going to work.
  9. Trying to get my driveshaft out of my 77' 280z and the 4 12mm bolts that connect the driveshaft to the diff are impossible to get to and the nuts are starting to round off on the ones ive attempted. The nuts are facing toward the diff, is this supposed to be right? It seems it would be a hell of alot easier if they faced the trans side and I could use an impact wrench on it. Otherwise I dont have enough room to move my wrench and cannot even fit a socket on it because of the limited space. Help me please.
  10. Well Im just going to buy S12+8 Calipers and get rid of these. thank you all Does anyone need some S12W calipers?
  11. I am upgrading for safety I just dont want to spend tons of money on things that should be fairly priced in my opinion. The S12W calipers should be the most expensive part considering it is the most time consuming to create and lasts forever as long as its maintained. But a blank of aluminium shouldnt be over $100 unless its huge and/or includes free shipping IMO. Time to source out a press to borrow and aluminium blanks to make my own I guess
  12. Yeah thats what Im saying, depending on the width I could just get Wheel spacers. I know that stacks of washers are dangerous, but Im thinking of using Thick washers that I can get from an Industrial part store for like 80 cents to $1.50 each and they can be anywhere from a half inch to 2/4 inch thick and wide enough to be stable for the rotor. Even though Im sure the spacer needed is smaller in size. But I still dont know that for sure. If anyone knows the size of the spacer needed could you please let us know? thanks.
  13. Well I dont see the difference between a milled piece of aluminium and Grade 8 Washers that are hardened steel. If I were to feel safe with either of these it would be the steel. I was also trying to get the size of the spacer because there should be no difference between a wheel spacer and this rotor spacer.
  14. Well crap, its over $100 just for some spacers, thats crazy. I hate over priced crap. If anyone could just tell me the thickness I need I could probably get a regular spacer or just thick washers =P
  15. Ok I did find out that I need a spacer or shim as you put it. If anyone has done this setup (300zx 4 lug rotor with S12W Calipers) could you please comment? Where do you get the spacer/shim or what is the size or options to fit the caliper in the right spot for the 300zx rotor?
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