SteveJ

Points are not used on an electronic ignition. That is why I said "IF". They are not spark plugs. Points look like this the first picture below. They reside under the distributor cap and rotor. The second picture is a 280ZX ignition. It is commonly used by people going from the stock ignition to an electronic ignition. Other common upgrades to eliminate the points are a Pertronix ignitor and Crane ignition. Use Google to find examples of those. While there are some deviations between the wiring diagrams and real life, the FSM wiring diagram is the most accurate source for stock wiring. As far as the wire colors and where they go, I pulled those STRAIGHT off the FSM wiring diagram. The only exception was mentioning the condensor. If you have an electronic ignition, you'll need to 1) figure out which ignition system you have and 2) search for how it is supposed to be wired.

There is an important detail missing. Is this a stock ignition system? If so, have you checked the gap & dwell on your points? For a stock system In the start position, the green/white wire is energized from the white/red wire at the ignition switch. It goes through the tachometer and on to the black/white wire that goes to the positive side of the coil. In the run position, there is a black/white wire that is energized from the white/red wire at the ignition switch. It goes through the ballast resistor (dropping down to about 9 VDC) and on to the green/white wire. The black wire does go from the coil to the distributor. The ground you are looking for actually goes through the condensor (capacitor). It would go off of the negative side of the coil.

Yeah, your car has been painted...by my wife...Morgan Fairchild. Yeah, that's the ticket. - Tommy Flanagan's Paint Shop.

I just hit the report button, mark it as spam, and move on.

Okay, I thought that the 3 3/16 ones tapered down to 75mm to fit in the hole on the front side.

Did you look at MSA? They have a few.

Ron, You should first check to see if you have voltage at the temperature sender in the engine bay. If you have voltage there, the next thing I would do is to use a potentiometer in place of the sender to see if varying the resistance gets the gauge to move. You can test to see if the gauge works by utilizing a 6 or 9 volt battery on the gauge when it's out of the car. You can also check for continuity between the connector in the dash and the temperature sender.

Thanks for the tip, Phil. I replaced the hood release cable on the 260Z with a 240Z hood release. It works, but the bracket doesn't fit as well. I tried lubricating the old cable, but it didn't seem to improve. I'll have to try flushing it with some solvent and try again.

If the fluid is brown from age, he'll be able to tell sure enough when the fresh fluid comes through...that is providing the lines are not clogged with rust.

I saw your car on Craigslist. You might just be glad you're keeping it. Come by the Georgia Z Club meeting. The next one is November 3. You don't have to be a memeber to drop in on the meetings.

Are you using a tool like the one pictured to check your flow?

Just look at your local Wal-Mart or dollar store. You'll find them cheap there. I have a couple in the garage for brake fluid.

It worked for me, too. Note: you must have Excel installed on your computer for this to work. Edit: I tried it on my Android tablet. It worked on it, too.

While you're at it, make sure you put the carburetor back together properly. Did you use a new gasket set, too?

Do you mean that it's no good for the carb that you reassembled after dropping parts?

Just remember to keep the magic smoke inside the wires. Oh, and you might want to do some continuity tests to validate my answers.

The blue/white probably goes to the fusebox blue/white bullet connector you described in your fusebox post. The blue with fuse holder might be associated with the fan. The white, white/black, blue connector is DEFINITELY for the radio. The red/black might be for the reverse lights circuit.

The white wire on the right should join the wire that connects the fusible link off of the starter to the positive side of the ammeter. The blue/white wire on the left should go to the cigarette lighter.

The only time I had a problem with being short-shipped, a call to customer service cleared it up. I haven't had any problems with their parts so far, either.

It probably is the same unit for a 77 or 78 since they had the same tank.

Use flux, plenty of heat and a heat sink to protect the insulation. That will give you a long lasting solder joint.

Chris, The main difference between cast iron and steel is the amount of carbon in it. IMHO, $100 is too high for cast iron and too low for aluminum. If he can get aluminum, you've struck a goldmine since they have been NLA for a while. You can get cast iron from Rock Auto for about $30 each when you apply a discount code that you can find online. You can check here to see if the aluminum drums are available yet.

My question back to you is Why do you want to draw in air from the hottest part of the engine bay? By the way, the redneck way is to cut the air horns out of the air cleaner and use those underneath the filter.

Okay, I was wondering why your post made it sound more difficult than it was.

I'm not sure what you are asking. The thread you referenced discussed aftermarket belts that I have used, and I described how they are mounted. The retractor for these belts mount to the ceiling. They don't need a well since they aren't on the floor. If you can turn a wrench, you can mount the belts. If you can figure out things, it won't take long to remove the old belts and install the new ones. If you want non-retracting Nissan belts, I have a set of those in a box in my garage. They aren't identical to the original belts, but they are genuine Nissan parts. Send me a PM if you're interested in those.