SteveJ

Don't complain. That's the only way my 73 ever got a trophy. It was awarded 3rd place out of 4 S30s, and that was because the 4th car was a rust bucket. That one received the "Diamond in the Rough" award.

Yes, that clevis pin is quite a joy. I replaced my clutch master two and a half weeks ago. It certainly tried my patience. Just keep trying. It will eventually go in.

There are a lot of information gaps in here. First, though, to answer your question, it is likely the electric fuel pump was added to alleviate vapor lock problems that many reported in that era. So, fill us in here. 1. What is the history on this car to your knowledge? Has it been sitting? Are you working on a recent problem? 2. Is fuel getting to the fuel filter? 3. What is the condition of the gas tank? Have you inspected it for rust? 4. Are the hard and soft lines in the fuel system in good condition? How old are they? My first swag is junk in the tank or the fuel line clogging things up.

If it's a stock wire, my guess from looking at the FSM wiring diagram is that you are looking at a wire that should be going to the AC compressor relay.

Honestly, I couldn't tell you off of the top of my head. I'd have to go through the wiring diagram to verify. Follow the negative cable off of the battery. That will lead you to the primary chasis ground. When you're cleaning the fusible links, it's good to use a product like Caig Deoxit to clean corrosion off the connector. You can find it at Radio Shack, many other electronics stores, and Amazon.com.

There isn't much you can do unless you are ready to tear the engine apart. Check the compression. Keep an eye on the oil and radiator fluid to see if one is getting into the other. As long as all those are okay, you probably don't have much to worry about.

Lacking more information, here is my guess. The previous owner bypassed the starter circuit on the ignition switch, either because of a problem in the ignition switch, a problem in the wiring, or out of questionable taste. When you put the engine back in, you probably missed a connection, likely to one or both of your fusible links. Another possibility is that you shorted a circuit or multiple circuits during the reconnections and blew your fusible links. Since you lack electrical knowledge, I'm not sure what kind of help you're expecting, no offense intended. The easiest things for you to do are to re-check your connections and inspect your fusible links. You can see all of the connections and find the fusible link connections in the FSM. If you don't have a copy of the FSM, look at the links below. That aside, I would suggest tracing circuits with a voltmeter or noid light to see where the problem is. Also, consider making friends with someone who understands electricity, so he/she can help you with the diagnosis. Added: How could I forget? Check your grounds, too! Missing a ground will cause your circuits to be deader than a doornail.

Sam hasn't been here in over 3 years. James Burgess, AKA ZMEFLY, apparently took plenty of money from plenty of people. I wasn't buying any parts at the time, so fortunately, he never had the opportunity to scam me. If you conduct a Google search on ZMEFLY and JAMES BURGESS, you can get some idea of how much of a scumbag he is. For instance, he even put his then-girlfriend up to posting a fake death notice on this board seven years ago. She later recanted after realizing she had been covering for such scum. If he never approaches a Zcar related board again, it will be too soon.

The FSM is your friend. Go to the link below and find the one you need.

I'm glad you're more awake in the morning than I am. Moto, are you in a hurry for one? I will have a spare after I swap the distributor on my 73 for a 280ZX distributor.

Except for the fact that Nova when translated from Spanish to English as Nova. "No va" translated from Spanish to English means "not going". Areyoutryingtosaythatspacesarenotimporantwhenwriting?

I'm not sure what people are assuming, but I see missing information. Is the distributor in question a 280Z distributor or 280ZX distributor. It's a common swap. I can't remember the differences between the two plates off the top of my head. I did find the plate for a 280ZX on Ebay a few months back. (Sorry, it's not an extra.) If you aren't sure of the type distributor you have, post pictures of that, too.

A reverse lookup of the number does reveal that the last name associated with it matches the last name on the profile here. However, the posts seem very strange to me, too.

Roll the dice and take your chances. The level of knowledge varies from individual to individual. Use the search engine here. There's a lot of good information in the forums. It just takes time to search and read. For the best answers: 1. Describe the problem thoroughly. When did it start? What symptoms did you notice? When does it happen? 2. Describe one problem per post. Don't combine a mechanical problem with an electrical problem. 3. Post the problems in the appropriate forum. 4. Make sure you have looked in that forum for a similar problem. Many of us have been here for quite a while, so we may not want to answer the same question for the 3rd, 4th, or 10th time. 5. Don't hijack threads. Make sure you are asking relevent questions when you add to a thread. Speed of responses depends upon time of day, accuracy of description, and sometimes even your attitude. The more you appreciate the advice, the more advice (and faster) you'll receive. Welcome.

I believe the Minis of that vintage are being looked at for a recall.

I'm hoping to go to the convention. I have reservations & registrations for me and She-Who-Must-Be-Obeyed.

Definitely great work in digging into the system. It helps to have good diagnostics tools, too.

It's a 31mm festoon bulb. The old part number is DE3175. It's the same bulb as for the dome lamp. For a replacement, you might consider a 3022-W9 or 3022-CWHP4 bulb from Superbrightleds.com. Swapping to LED bulbs will drop the current draw on your wiring dramatically. I've measured it. Search for my previous posts on LED lights. IMHO the extra paid for LED bulbs beats the time and effort fixing burned up wiring. Also, if you replace the parking lights with LEDs, it will take longer to drain your battery should you accidentally leave them on. Steve

Tony, try contacting Z Barn to see if Roger can supply a used cable for you. A long shot would be to look up a choke cable in the parts fiche link below and see if Nissan has any more. Considering I haven't purchased a choke cable for a 73 from a Nissan dealer, it's a pretty long shot. Z Car Source might have one, but expect to pay more than from Z Barn. While Z Car Source is pricey, they have good service and good quality parts IMHO.

Make sure you ordered an alternator with an internal voltage regulator (78-83). Sometimes the parts stores get it wrong.

First, download a copy of the FSM. You'll find it in the links below. Second, look through the engine electrical section. It goes over how to diagnose the charging system. Now, having said that, 11.46 volts is too low. Was the engine at idle? What is the voltage at 2000 RPM or higher? (Again, look at the FSM for the specs.) As for the fusible links, they are available at Courtesy Nissan. Some people like replacing them with maxifuses, but I haven't found satisfactory answers as to the true ratings of the fusible links, so I'm not sure what maxifuses would be appropriate. It's not a bad idea to replace links and clean the terminals with something like Caig deoxit. (You can find it at Radio Shack or from lots of online vendors.)

Decals are also available from Banzai Motorworks. Believe me, Mike is a stickler for details.

You should consider bookmarking the parts fiche in my signature links. According to that, there is only 1 fuel tank for the 240Zs.

I have photos from the Mitty at Road Atlanta posted on my Facebook page open for anybody to look at. You can find my Facebook page via posts I've made on the ClassicZCars Facebook page.

There is a little retaining clip. One of the common window crank tools will pop it off. Otherwise you could use a small pick hook to grab the loop end and pull it out. Once the clip is off, the handle pulls loose easily.