SteveJ

Are there one or two nuts on the rod? A single nut can work its way loose. Two nuts torqued against one another will tend to keep both in place.

Tommy, are you from Michigan, or did you mean 678? Anyway, try posting on the facebook page for ClassicZCars. I put out a bleg for a fuel gauge, and a generous member on here named Dave Irwin had one out in the mail to me on the same day. I don't think it gets better than that. Anyway, there is a swap meet at ZCON tomorrow morning, and I'll keep an eye open for one.

Care to elaborate? It sounds like there is more going on than the height of the clutch pedal.

You could try here for a manual: Dyment Distribution Services 20770 Westwood Road Strongsville, OH. 44136 (800) 247-5321

Check your fusible links. Make sure you download the FSM for your car and read through the EE and BE sections so you can diagnose and repair your electrical system.

The wife and I are taking a short break after the opening reception. Mr. K talked to the convention via Skype. He looks pretty darn good for 101. I won a NISMO license plate frame. I'm tempted to put it on my ugly 73 just for the comedic value.

Zforce gave you the correct answer. Just look in the FSM. It's there.

Download copies of the FSM and owners manual, then. Learn about maintaining your Z, and you will reap the benefits of classic car ownership.

The only yellow wire I could find was for the gas gauge. The only black/yellow wire I could find on the wiring diagram that I would suspect running through that area is for the windshield washer tank. I suggest downloading a copy of the FSM, going to the BE section, and printing out a copy of the wiring diagram. Since I'm at the convention, I'm trying to read the diagram on the screen of a netbook computer while turning my head sideways (Eventually, I just turned the computer on its side, but I didn't find any other potential candidates.). It's not the easiest thing to trace wires like that. Unfortunately, the FSM doesn't do the greatest job of identifying where single wire connections are.

There are a few S30s & S130s hiding in the parking garage. It's just too dark in there to take a decent picture. From my room, I can also see an S30 in the other parking area adjacent to the garage. I just don't feel like going out into the heat right now.

Sorry, I was running around with the wife today. I haven't seen many cars, yet, either. Hopefully that will be different tomorrow.

Well, we're at the hotel now. For some reason I was pretty thirsty on the drive down. The car ran like a champ. I'd never taken it on a 300 mile drive. We stopped a little after half way, and it only needed 6.3 gallons to fill it. And I thought the car was running rich.

88 MPH. That's when the flux capacitor kicks in.

Actually, I can't believe I overlooked suggesting the simple, such as looking at the fuses. Still, it's not a bad idea to look for exposed wires that could have shorted to ground. I've lost a few fuses that way.

D'oh! I missed that. I'm trying to remember if the fried ammeter allowed the starter to spin. Unfortunately I have to finish getting ready for my trip to the convention, so I can't dig into it now.

Bill, be sure to check the fusible link between the starter and the engine wiring harness. I think Arne is on to something as far as overloading when you crossed the streams. You created a dead short that wasn't protected by a fuse. Therefore, there's a good chance the fusible link took a good shot of current, too. Edit: Oh, and there is always the chance that you fried the ammeter in your dash, too. That could prevent starting. I've seen that before.

FYI, here is another post from the OP. Considering he didn't have the accessory fuse in, I would say the dead wires are most likely energized through the accessory fuse.

So what did you find wrong? Posting solutions help people when they search for answers.

It is for the accessory circuits. It is 20A, just like it is labelled on the circuit board.

Where in the dash harness are they? Edit: Nevermind. Put in the fuse for accessories (marked Common on your MSA fuse box), and you will probably have voltage.

The E12-92 was used on the 82 & 83 ZX, as well as the 82-84 Maxima. You can get replacements for those at Rockauto.com. I don't know anything about the Jacobs system.

The OP's profile says he has a 280Z. I just got tired of suggesting that people put their car info in their signatures.

That's right. Who needs to pay a gym membership for a steam bath? All you have to do is live in the Southeast in the Summer.

A possible common thread I can speculate on quickly would be fusible links. Especially, if one of them was corroded some, it's fault current could have been too low. Fusible links should always be checked with an ohmmeter and while out of the circuit. Also get back into your center console/dash and look for any possible bare wire or connector that could have come into contact with ground. Another possibilty would be that you have a bad ground.

You haven't provided enough information. Your dash lights are out. Does that include your speedometer & tachometer? Are your running lights still working? Did you or the PO use the stock radio wiring, or did you tap into a circuit? If it's the latter, how was the circuit hacked/tapped into? If it's what I suspect, it will be tricky to diagnose because it's not stock. Take the center console out, along with the radio, and see if you can find a bad ground or other loose wire.