SteveJ

Yes. Search on here. There is a long thread on the subject. I haven't analyzed the 73 wiring as much as I should on this subject to give a blow-by-blow. For the 74 260Z, I have. In the 260Z, the fuel pump relay is wired between the alternator and voltage regulator. I suspect the 73 is wired in a simlar manner. Dave Irwin (Zs-ondabrain) might be able to confirm. I've attached a simplified schematic of the 260Z fuel pump wiring. When you jumpered out the voltage regulator, you energized the coil. While it's a relatively low draw, it's there.

The primary focus of this board is the S30 body style: 240Z, 260Z & 280Z. There is also support for the 240K and even some support for the 280ZX. You won't find much on the 300ZX in either the Z31 or Z32 body style.

A few years back, Wal280Z posted this thread. It has a pretty nice copy of the wiring diagram in TIF format. The Green/Yellow is listed as the parking brake switch. One of the black wires may go to the ashtray light, but the source is a Green/White wire. There is a Black/Red bullet connector and Black bullet connector going to the radio. You weren't specific on where the wires were located.

Actually, it's been about 11 years now since I lived in North Texas. I was out in Wichita Falls, so it was kind of a pain to make it to events, etc. I will say that getting to experience Mad Mike makes the dues for ZCot worth it. I also got to meet Bill Reagan before he moved out of the area. In some ways, the clubs don't change too much. I never tried to contact Cowtown because I don't even think I knew about them. That was in the days of dial-up internet anyway, so researching clubs wasn't as easy. Anyway, IMHO the club experience is what you make of it. Lord knows I've tried to recruit about any S30 owner I've met online or in person to join the Georgia Z Club. My long-term goal is to make the club more appealing to about any Z owner of any age. (I was inspired by talking to one of the members of the Cuban Mafia at ZCon )

Sure, just go to the site store...Oh yeah, it's gone. Contact Mike. He will provide details.

You didn't, by chance, buy the car from someone named James Burgess, did you?

While you'll find lots of newer Z's with ZCoT, I'm sure there are still plenty of people with S30s in the club. Heck, there were always a few at the Dallas Autorama, and Courtesy Nissan still gives support to the first generation. (How many Nissan dealerships do you know of that have sections of their parts websites dedicated to S30s?). Anyway, go to some club meetings, and talk to the members. See what cars show up, too. You could be pleasantly surprised. If not, contact the Cowtown Z Club and see if they have the atmosphere you're looking for.

Rockauto also offers a rebuild service with A-1 Cardone.

The best way to figure out your problem is to go through the troubleshooting guide in the FSM. Compounding the problem is that since the circuit that carries power to the headlight goes directly through the switch, over the years the voltage to the headlights drops, also dimming them some. The solution for that is to put relays in the circuit, such as the system designed by Dave Irwin (aka Zs-ondabrain) and sold by him and Motorsport Auto. (MSA has them on sale right now.)

Download the FSM for the 82 at XenonS130.com and the 78 at XenonS30.com. Use the wiring diagrams from the 78 & 82 to identify the wires you need to connect to make the swap. Use waterproof connectors in the engine bay if you have to make the connections there.

It looks like you figured it out.

I'm sorry. I meant to say that you should edit your signature and put the year of your car in it. That way it shows up in every post you make.

Mail order: Motorsports Auto Z Car Source - A site sponsor Black Dragon Auto Rockauto If you need to drive the car, you'll have to bite the bullet and pay for overnight shipping. Expect to pay core charges, too. By the way, edit your profile and put the year of your car in it. That can help you get better answers to your questions.

One of the best resources for answers is the factory service manual (FSM). Download a copy at the URL listed below. Read it, and you'll have most of your answers and diagnostic techniques straight from the factory engineers. While you're at the XenonS30 link, also grab a copy of the fuel injection bible. I looked at a copy of the 76 FSM since I already have it on my computer. The EF section indicates the fuel rail should have a pressure of at least 36.3 PSI. Your fuel pressure is low.

Here are some manufacturer FAQs on Freeze 12.

Here's the thread I was looking for. It helped that I could just look at threads I subscribed to. You'll find plenty of information on this thread and the threads linked to it.

Remember to move air through your faux paint booth. Use filtration to avoid messing up your paint job and an intrinsically safe fan to keep from blowing up. Read the material safety data sheet for respiratory protection information. Do not use a cheap paper mask. They don't protect you from anything besides big drops of paint. Do not set up your paint booth near a water heater or other ignition source. Last year, a neighbor was using a type of spray paint in a utility room off of his garage. The water heater ignited the vapors from the paint. The neighbor received 3rd degree burns. His garage was badly damaged, and several windows in the house were blown out.

Search on here. The subject of choke brackets has come up before. I mounted mine to the transmission tunnel.

Are you sure you're getting enough fuel? A mechanical fuel pressure gauge would be helpful here. Since you have to choke the carburetors to get the engine to run when you increase RPMs, that indicates that your mixture is lean. Add to that the fact that your engine loads up at idle with the choke on, and I would guess that you have an issue with fuel flow. If you install a mechanical gauge in the line before the fuel rail, you can see if your fuel pressure drops. A drop in fuel pressure would indicate an inadequate fuel pump or an obstruction in the line.

Robin, The electrical fuel pump is in back by the tank. The mechanical is in front and mounted on the cylinder head. If the European 260Zs are close enough to the North American 260Z, you should download the 74 factory service manual from XenonS30 and read through the fuel system pages. The fuel filter is near the electric fuel pump, but there also could be a screen filter before the fuel pump, and there should also be screens at the carburetors if I remember correctly. Anyway, if the filters are working correctly, the fuel pumps should not have sludge. As for operation, the power to the electric fuel pump is interrupted by a relay when starting the car. I have attached a simplified drawing of the circuit. The mechanical pump is operated by the camshaft.

Hold on. That's a 50 degree differential. You're not going to get much better than that without a bigger evaporator and blower motor.

Download the 72 FSM. The Haynes manual can be too generic on issues such as wiring. As for the cost of a manual, $35 is reasonable. It's not like there are a bunch floating around.

Search on eBay for an owners manual. They pop up from time to time. Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) can be downloaded at the link in my signature.

Phil, While I'm thinking about it, keep in mind that if you put in an internally regulated alternator, this won't work (unless you install a high power diode). A lot of us found this out when we put in internally regulated alternators because the batteries would run down due to the fuel pump relay being constantly energized. I found the connector that was responsible for that and took it out. My battery stopped draining after that. For anybody who is curious, I recreated the drawing in the FSM since the scanned copy is on the light side.

Phil, Look at the EF section of the 74 FSM, in particular pages EF-7 and EF-8. I think it's a great way of wiring the fuel pump in a car with an externally regulated alternator.