SteveJ

Phil, do you remember the thread you started about doing the fuel pump after the ZX conversion? This is the solution.

Seeing Phil's post reminded me of something VERY important here. Your fuel pump uses the alternator output for power. It is wired between the alternator & voltage regulator. A diode in the right place would keep that functionality intact. Otherwise your fuel pump will be hot all of the time.

I could eventually tell you, but I'd need to do a little research first. Sorry, it won't be in time for you to go to work.

Did you try to bleed out the clutch after you added fluid? If you didn't, you were probably just moving air bubbles. As for the FSMs, look at my signature. The link is there.

How much do you want to bet that the OP will need to replace the slave cylinder? If you replace that, replace the master cylinder at the same time. By the way, download a copy of the FSM. It has troubleshooting guides that can help if you take the time to read them.

Have you tried calling?

I'm sure it's worth the drive just to get away from New Jersey.

Go to this link and read the Special Note section.

When you start the car in gear, does it try to creep forward? I am suspecting the clutch.

While Dave can rebuild your switch, it may be an issue with the green/yellow wire burning up at the connector. I've seen that on a couple of cars. It still wouldn't hurt to have Dave rebuild it, but he may have to repair the wiring, too.

While this wikipedia article doesn't explicitly explain the differences in the S30 bumpers, it does give some background on why.

Brackets are available. I believe Eiji Hosomi sells them. His website is Datsun Spirit. He doesn't list them on the site, so you'll need to email him.

You could try calling Roger at Zbarn to see if he has any good ones that would work for you. Either a 77 or 78 tank should work.

That's okay. If you had shopped with ZCarSource before, you'd know that $50 for a tank would be WAY below what they normally charge for parts.

I'm not sure where you're getting $50 from. The core charges are on top of the price of the tank.

Black is definitely negative.

Standard responses: Check fusible links. (Remember to remove them from the circuit & check for continuity.) Grounds, grounds, grounds. Non-standard: Did you follow someone's writeup on the swap or did you wing it? If it's the former, provide a link so we can see what the person/people wrote. What electrical connections did you disconnect when you did the swap? Did you inspect those? How about the wire for the neutral sensor? Is it bypassed properly?

Let's ask the obvious question, first. Did you call MSA and ask?

Hey, I haven't introduced myself, either. I'm trying to get to 2000 posts or so. Then maybe I won't sound so much like a newbie.

I read that the BMW 1600 gas cap would work. I bought one, but it didn't fit. I haven't heard of any other alternatives.

When they said you couldn't leave until the day was done, I opted not to go to the track day. I didn't feel like sitting out there in the heat.

If you can't find stock or wait for stock, there is always McMaster Carr

It is good to replace the master & slave together. Remember that the master is probably at least as old as the slave.

Magnetic sweepers are great for resolving those issues with steel fasteners/washers.

The easiest thing to check, as mentioned in the first response, is the hydraulic part of the clutch. Is the reservoir full? Are there signs of leakage around the slave cylinder? Have you downloaded a copy of the FSM to see the factory troubleshooting guides? (Many questions on this board could be answered just by reading those.) Since the car is new to you, I would not be surprised to find the slave cylinder on the clutch is old and is in need of replacement. It's a relatively easy job, and conventional wisdom suggests replacing the master & slave as a pair. The trickiest part is getting things lined up with the clevis pin and clutch pedal, and even that isn't too difficult.