SteveJ

That is correct.

RockAuto has a lot of different choices for brands of condensers.

He has hands like Andre the Giant. The vacuum advance didn't stand a chance.

A bad cell in a battery can be a PITA to diagnose. I had that one time. The multimeter said 12 VDC, but when I turned the key, voltage dropped to 0.

IMHO, go with the most rust-free car you can find and afford. That will probably be the easiest to do whatever you desire to do. I haven't met an S30 that I didn't like, even the 2+2.

That was a way of getting 15 inch wheels.

Diet Dew & BBQ.

I took the Z out to Caffeine & Octane today. On the drive home, I saw a young man in the passenger seat of an SUV trying real hard to get a good look as they passed. Naturally, I sped up to give him a better look. A guy in a BMW Z4 was giving me the thumbs up, and another guy at the gas station talked about owning a late 260Z. It was an ego-boosting kind of day.

You'll need to buy or fabricate brackets to mount the 240Z bumper. I fabricated them for my 260Z. https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2014/09/06/260z-air-dam-and-front-bumper/

When I was at The Mitty, I met a guy from Decatur who is looking for a 240Z. He bought one to race not that long ago. I tried to send him a friend request on FB, but he hasn't responded. Let me see if I can track down someone who knows him.

You are correct. They can be tested with a meter that measures capacitance. http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=capacitance+meter&rh=i%3Aaps%2Ck%3Acapacitance+meter

Rockauto has 20 different choices. Many are on closeout, though.

The 240Z only has one fusible link. You'll find it down at the starter.

Have you met any members of the Upstate Z Club? I've met some on a couple of occasions. They meet not too far from you.

Take just a little more time, open the distributor cap and pocket the rotor.

If you're staying with an externally regulated alternator, look at Rockauto for a VR. As for wiring connections, crimping is industry standard for most connections because it is faster than soldering. If you have a lot of spare time, feel free to solder. And I'll second what Zed head said (sounds nice out loud) about the connections.

Has the engine bay been hacked up? If not, I'm not sure why you would need to add wire. Also, many of the connectors are available at http://www.vintageconnections.com. I can teach you how to crimp wires so they look like they came from the factory.

Even more reason for me to pay Charles a visit. Have meter, will travel. I also have a couple tach/dwell meters in my garage. All it would cost you is some Diet Dew, and some good BBQ, preferably from a place that have hushpuppies to die for. It's been over 20 years since I set gap and dwell, but I can probably still manage it.

I was wondering where the look came from...

If you have an ammeter, hook it up to the battery while the car is off. Pull the connection to the VR. If the draw drops, you know you have a bad VR. This may help with diagnostics: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/16/some-electrical-basics-and-troubleshooting/ Let me know if you need a housecall.

Charles, let me know if you continue to have issues. I might be able to do a house call.

Contact MSA.

Here are some pictures from today. Who is that curly headed guy?

I took a whole lot of photos yesterday. The first batch is online. It will take a while to get photos from all three days up, so check my website frequently. http://stevescartography.wordpress.com

It looks like you were close to the mark.