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About restore

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    Leawood, KS
  1. Thanks, I guess I'll just have to bite the bullet and remove and clean everything. Rick in Kansas
  2. Thanks to everyone for all of the ideas. I like the heat and acetone/ATF combo. I've not heard of that. I' give it a try. Rick
  3. I was hoping that it was not the proportioning valve because it's located above the right axle on the bottom of the floor pan. A place with limited access. I guess I'll bite the bullet and clean it and the warning light switch, located below the MC on the left wheel well. I'm most concerned about removing the tubing connectors on the PV. I have flare wrenches but I am afraid of damaging the brake lines. The car is 44 years old and I'm sure lines have never been removed. Thanks. Rick in Kansas
  4. I'll try that. I'm not familiar with speed bleeders. You make it sound like a check valve. How do they work and where did you get them? My 71 is somewhat different from the 76 NP valve shown in the diagram. From the master cylinder the front and rear lines go into a pressure equalization switch and from there a line goes to the proportioning valve located above the right rear axle. It's that valve that I think is causing the problem. Rick from kansas
  5. I'm trying to bleed the rear shoe brakes on a "71". It was sitting for over ten years and the master cylinder and rear wheel cylinders pistons were frozen, I have honed and rebuilt each. I am trying to use a hand vacuum pump to pull the hydro fluid from the master cylinder but it will not work. My question is: will the pump pull the fluid past the proportioning valve between the rear wheels or must it have pressure from the master cylinder? I am concerned about the proportioning valve also being frozen .Does anyone have any ideas or experience with a vacuum pump in this application?
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