SteveJ

Bruce, if you want to feel how hot Memphis is, you can ride over with me in the 260Z. I'm sure Wendy will want to drive her own car.

A lot of time, people back away from the cars when I try to set up the picture. Okay, I just scare them.

Track Day was today: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2015/07/15/zcon-2015-track-day-168-photos/

Here are the next two posts on ZCON 2015: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2015/07/14/zcon-2015-car-wash-40-photos/ https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2015/07/14/zcon-2015-registration/

Mike, I'll put some in the gallery when I get back. There's only so much bandwidth in the hotel wifi.

I've posted my first set of photos from ZCON 2015 (Day 0). https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2015/07/13/zcon-2015-night-shots-29-photos/

Pete Thomas, thomas461, did a nice build with a haltech. His website is http://www.my260z.net. He'd be a good reference for you.

I made it. The redneck A/C was a bust. Not enough heat exchange. The air coming out the vents in the afternoon was 100+. The dash got up to 148. The 260Z ran like it just came off the showroom floor. I LOVED IT!

Cool, so how long do you think the process will take?

Mike, I'll be taking LOTS of photos. I'll probably put some on here, but all will end up in my Flickr account and on Fiddling with Z Cars.

I have my redneck AC ready to go.

Okay, you say your bulbs are good. What about your fuse? These circuits share a fuse. Next, use a multimeter to test electrical circuits. Using a probe to diagnose is like checking cylinder compression by putting your finger over the spark plug hole. You can get a reasonable, cheap multimeter via Amazon or Harbor Freight. If you had the map light in the on position when you were testing the dome light, you could have been backfeeding the map light. Since your back was to the map light, you wouldn't notice it, and it could fool you into thinking the red/blue wire was negative. By the way, when you're checking what is in contact with ground using a multimeter, look at the resistance reading. Don't use the tone. A higher resistance reading could indicate you're backfeeding a circuit. So, replace the fuse. It's cheap. Once you put in the new fuse, use your probe to see if it lights up when you touch either side of the fuse. For more help, download the FSM from the link in my signature. The BE section does a nice job of breaking out the circuits. BE-18 and BE-20 have the circuits you're interested in.

What down time? I'll be at the convention.

The glove box light is wired to the instrument light circuit in the 260Z. (Ask the man/woman who ones one. ) No relays in the circuit. Maybe I can trace out the circuit next week when I'm in Memphis and far away from work. (Yes, I travel with a FSM. Don't you?)

Part numbers: Russell 639560 Speed Bleeder (front) Russell 639570 Speed Bleeder (rear) They are available via Amazon.

Click on the Georgia Z Club link in my signature, and it will take you to the Facebook page. If you can upload the pictures there, I can copy them over to here.

The later 280Z hoods had louvers.

If you have to, post them to the Georgia Z Club page on Facebook, and I'll repost them here.

That is especially true considering the electrical test equipment I travel with.

Just keep in mind that the more you mess with the cars, the more variables that Chet and I would have to sort out to diagnose what needs to be done.

He accidentally posted that in this thread. He meant it for a private conversation.

Carl Beck will be there, but I don't know if he'll acknowledge riff-raff like us.

I've never had any luck vacuum bleeding the brakes on either of my Z cars. If you don't have someone to help, here's one way you can do it: 1. Get a long tube. 2. Put one end in a jar of brake fluid. 3. Attach the other end to your bleed screw with a good run going up before the tube goes back down into the jar. 4. Make sure the reservoir is full. 5. Loosen the bleed screw. 6. Pump the brakes a few times. 7. Look for air bubbles in the tube. 8. Check the fluid level in the reservoir and top off as necessary. 9. Repeat steps 6-8 a few times. 10. Tighten the bleed screw. 11. See if you have a firm pedal. 12. If not, repeat steps 5-9.

It should fit a 260Z. It should be correct for a 75 280Z with a build date of 6/75 or earlier.

Okay, the FSM is online. See the link in my signature. Download the manual for a 72. Page BE-3 shows how the wires are grouped together and what colors go where.