Jump to content


  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


motivealloy last won the day on August 26 2016

motivealloy had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

14 Good

About motivealloy

  • Rank
    Active Member


  • Map Location
    Austin, TX

My Cars

  • Zcars Owned

Recent Profile Visitors

963 profile views
  1. Pertronix would be nice but this is my son's project and he don't have much money to spend being an student. We have Bosch Rotor and Cap. I have a dwell meter but just didn't think to hook it up. Doh ;(
  2. Hey gang, Wanted to share this story. It's a great FYI. And it's not mentioned anywhere to check as a possible failure. We have been battling a crazy distributor problem for the past month. First the 240z began to slowly run horrible to the point where it just wouldn't stay running after starting. After about a week of troubleshooting, checking compression (124-128psi), checking valves (a tiny bit out), Checking timing (dead on), Checking for water in the gas (nope), replacing the coil, and lots of cussing nothing. One thing we didn't check was the points... hmm, why should we they were replaced only a month earlier. They look fine. Might as well check with the feeler gauge. HOLY CRAP! The points had walked open to almost a 1/16" inch! The set screw is still tight. What the hell? So I'm thinking that the tiny washer some how shifted position and caused the points to widen the gap. i placed a thin wide washer under the set screw to get even pressure on the plate. Fires right up! Runs perfect. Yay, sigh of relief. Then, a week later my son is driving and the 240 and it just dies for no reason. Cranks over strong but just won't start. Tow it home and send the 240 to the corner for being bad. Crap, maybe the points or distributor went wrong again. I check the point gap and it's perfect. All the leads are good. Dist is grounding properly. Shaft is fine, Cap is fine, rotor is fine. What is going on. stupid car... Then I notice when I open and close the points they stick open. Are you freaking kidding me! The brand new points just stick wide open. Ugh... So we squirted some silicon at the pivot and all is fixed now. Runs like a champ again. OMG, this is the most frustrating and troublesome set of points I have ever had on any car! Needless to say we are replacing these aftermarket points with OEM Nissan. Lesson learned. ;(
  3. Did anyone end up going? We had a family issue crop up an couldn't make it.
  4. I've never seen Simple green remove paint before but it will etch polished aluminium if left on too long.
  5. Hey Peter, Yes that is correct. Just look for Nikki fuel pump on ebay. The Nikki fuel pump from an F-10, 610, 710, 620, 510, 210, B210, 310, 240Z, 260Z all use the same fuel pump internal parts. The easiest way to tell if it has a dual diaphragm is the little tab of rubber that sticks out the side of the pump will have a tiny staple in it. You can see it in the photos i posted. The rubber gaskets shouldn't be dry as it's been sitting on a shelf.
  6. Thanks for the link, but those aren't the correct shape. I'm looking for original shape with the curved edges.
  7. Hey gang, as the title says i'm in need of 1 one rear bumper bracket for a 1970 240z. Send me a line if you have one you want to part with at a reasonable price. Our's was missing when we purchased our project car. Checked ebay and nothing is available there except the incorrect SS version. Thanks!!
  8. why are there no corner marshals?
  9. Read through this thread for some ideas... http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/40025-280z-5-speed-in-an-early-240z-console-cutting/ With our swap the tunnel was cut and we just used a shift lever from a 1971 Z car as it has a nice "S" curve to it.
  10. There's an extensive thread about KIA weatherstrip here... http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/34633-kia-sportage-weatherstip-rocks/
  11. Check your HT leads (spark plug wires). If you pull off one lead at a time while the engine is at idle and just hold it near the spark plug you will hear if the RPM will drop or stay the same. If you get a jolt when doing this then your HT lead has a break in the shielding and is intermittently grounding to the engine block causing your engine stumble.
  12. Read this page, it might help you with your identification... http://www.zcarz.us/TechnicalInformationPageTransmission.htm
  13. You can renew the brass terminals and slide fittings by soaking them in CLR for a few minutes. It brightens 'em right up. Rinse with clean water. I just wrapped the lead ends by folding electrical tape over onto itself.
  14. In the diagram Blue posted you are adjusting the #14 balance screw correct? The screw's only function is to make the front and rear carbs open at the same time. It is an adjustable link between the front and rear throttle plates (internal butterfly valves) so they open in unison (at the same time). You back this screw off a few turns to remove any possible preloading and because after you re-tune the carbs they might not sync in the same position as before. When you screw in this screw too far you are preloading (opening) one throttle plate way before the other. This is why the RPMs went up on that carb. The screw is only supposed to touch the linkage balance plate with the lightest of pressure, or till there isn't any slop in the throttle shaft linkage. You can test for slop when you push down on the throttle shaft #11 in the diagram. Check to see that the screw and plate move at the same time. Remember the end of the screw only needs to be touching the linkage plate. (screw> []=== * | <plate) *with gap (slop), (screw> []===| <plate) no gap. Hope this makes sense.
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use. We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.