SteveJ

Just keep in mind that the more you mess with the cars, the more variables that Chet and I would have to sort out to diagnose what needs to be done.

He accidentally posted that in this thread. He meant it for a private conversation.

Carl Beck will be there, but I don't know if he'll acknowledge riff-raff like us.

I've never had any luck vacuum bleeding the brakes on either of my Z cars. If you don't have someone to help, here's one way you can do it: 1. Get a long tube. 2. Put one end in a jar of brake fluid. 3. Attach the other end to your bleed screw with a good run going up before the tube goes back down into the jar. 4. Make sure the reservoir is full. 5. Loosen the bleed screw. 6. Pump the brakes a few times. 7. Look for air bubbles in the tube. 8. Check the fluid level in the reservoir and top off as necessary. 9. Repeat steps 6-8 a few times. 10. Tighten the bleed screw. 11. See if you have a firm pedal. 12. If not, repeat steps 5-9.

It should fit a 260Z. It should be correct for a 75 280Z with a build date of 6/75 or earlier.

Okay, the FSM is online. See the link in my signature. Download the manual for a 72. Page BE-3 shows how the wires are grouped together and what colors go where.

What year 240Z? What's the build date of your car?

Maybe I've been around early Z cars too long. After the Georgia Z Club meeting tonight, a few of us were walking around the parking lot when we saw an S30 we weren't familiar with. One friend pointed out the 280Z hood. I said that it was a 240Z. I recognized the bumper mounts were from a 73.

Is that from the Canadian version of The Onion?

Jai, Just be patient for right now. I talked with Chet tonight. He's up for a field trip out to your place around the end of the month. I'll bring all my favorite diagnostic toys. I'm sure Chet has a few, too. You can use our opinions to help you with charting a good course to having a drivable Z.

Jai, I may be able to come over later this month. Who knows? Maybe I can get Chet to join me.

How could it be a convention without him? I was reading on the ZCOT FACEBOOK group that a group from ZCOT, including Mad Mike will be driving up 7/13.

To go with what Cliff said, how about adding arrival dates? Wendy & I will get there on Monday, 7/13.

In the 70 & 71, the headlight switch completed the path to ground from the High/Low switch on the other side.

I actually toyed with the idea of an intercooler buried under the ice, but I didn't want to spend too much time, energy and money on the project. As for the College World Series, the women's tennis team got the NCAA championship this year, and I think Vanderbilt is limited to a maximum of one championship per school year. Besides, lately, the baseball team doesn't rebuild. It reloads. They will have another chance soon enough.

It can double as a beer (or in my case, soda) cooler. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O0DE8K?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0085UZKIO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00 http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0030BGA0U?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03 I'll add a circuit to power the fan. The fan will circulate air over the ice, and the air coming out will keep the driver from dying.

I could have sworn I've also seen a 200SX in livery similar to Hurley Haywood's car. I'll have to search my pictures from previous years... And I found it. I guess the driver had to take care of business before hitting the track.

Here's a picture of a 200SX that was at the Mitty at Road Atlanta this year.

I just ordered all of the parts for my ice chest A/C. Maybe that will make the trip a little more bearable.

It wouldn't apply to your car. The 260Z had carburetors. It also had an electric fuel pump at the tank and a mechanical fuel pump at the engine. The dual fuel pump design was an effort to combat vapor lock that would occur with the flat top carburetors. The fuel pressure in the 260Z was around 4 psi or less. Your car has fuel injection. That means it has a higher pressure electric fuel pump mounted at the tank. "Vapor lock" in a 280Z is not the same. By 79 or 80, Nissan went with a priming mode for the fuel pump during engine start to overcome any leakdown that allowed vapor to form in the fuel lines.

You need to get a dwell meter so you can check that.

What did you set the gap and dwell at on the points? What is your static timing set at? Why do you think it is still "sucking fuel"? Have you checked the float bowls to see if they still have fuel? Does it start with starting fluid? Have you made sure you didn't burn up your points? How do your spark plugs look? You need fuel, spark and correct timing to get the engine to run. Fuel is a likely issue, but since most people don't know how to set gap, dwell, and timing, don't discount those, either.

A worn/missing bushing on the shifter will make it sloppy. Of course, the term "horrible" doesn't lend itself to an accurate description of the shifting. Frankly, I am very comfortable with the action of the shifter in my 260Z.