SteveJ

The word is official. Nissan will be the featured marque at the 2018 Grassroots Motorsports Mitty. https://www.themitty.com/ So make plans to come to Atlanta twice in 2018: late April for the Mitty and October for ZCON.

Look to make sure the 6 wire body harness connector is connected to the dash harness. If it is, take it apart and inspect for corrosion and damaged connectors/wires.

Yeah, 0.01 A isn't going to drain the battery fast.

Eastern Beaver (https://www.easternbeaver.com/) also has some products that Vintage Connections does not have. You have to do a pretty good sized order to make it worthwhile, though.

Also, if you aren't comfortable with using an old school ammeter, sometimes you can diagnose a current draw with a clamp ammeter like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071SHLWTW It will be a "Lightning Deal" on Amazon at 8:15PM Eastern Time on Friday.

The most likely culprit is in the charging system as Zed Head said. A bad voltage regulator will also kill the battery. Try unplugging the voltage regulator and see if the battery is dead the next day. To Dave WM's point, will the battery start the car if you charge the battery? If it does, then continue diagnosing the electrical system. Here's some tips on diagnosing: https://fiddlingwithzcars.wordpress.com/2012/12/16/some-electrical-basics-and-troubleshooting/

Are you sure it's no more than $300? It still has some interior parts and an engine.

Been there. Done that. It really messes with installing everything else.

Any question is easy if you already know the answer.

I've been asking that for years.

I don't think the people at Capital Z of Texas want to be punished like that. The ZCCA likes to spread the torture around. It's no small feat to host the national convention. Besides, by moving it around, people from all over the country have a better opportunity of making one.

What is the rated output of the alternator? Is there a part number on the housing?

Are you sure you got an externally regulated alternator when you replaced it last year?

I thought she has a 76.

The white/black, white/red, green wires that go to the connector are the wires that go to the turn signal switch. The green wire connects to the white wire coming off of the flasher. That's your 12VDC+. The white/black wire connects to the green/red wire for the left turn signal, and the white/red wire connects to the green/black wire for the right turn signal.

Just like Shimmer! It's a floor polish AND a dessert topping!

Possibly.

I used two different types of sockets. The primary issue I had was finding generic BA9 LED bulbs with the correct polarity. I reversed the polarity on the parking light sockets on the tachometer, but then I had issues trying the same thing with the speedometer (for reasons that are too involved for me to type right now.). Plan B was to use wedge sockets. I used those sockets to replace the stock BA9 sockets. I could merely reverse the polarity of the bulb by pulling it out and swapping it around if need be. Replacing sockets or rewiring sockets isn't difficult on a 260Z or 280Z. That really isn't an option for the 240Z since those sockets are grounded to the gauge housings. I did not use resistors. No need. They would be dimmable IF I ever bothered to replace the stock rheostat with the PWM that @Captain Obvious supplied me. On the other hand, I don't find a need to dim the gauge lights.

The load is substantially reduced. I've done the measurements. With the ignition off, I saw about 1 Amp draw on the running lights and gauge lights. I think the total draw was 3 or 4 Amps with the headlights on, too.

Correct on both accounts. John will also be out at the Mitty, too. At least that's the current plan. And for ZCON, the team owner may just show up, too.

I did...and stop calling me Shirley!

It is not...a reproduction.

I drove the Z car to work so I could go straight over to the GZC meeting...well, I didn't go straight over to the meeting from work. I took a slight detour to see this car.

Here's a nice video that includes seeing the car go through the corkscrew. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i0HGnFtqimc

Go to the downloads section on this site and get the factory service manual for the 76. There's a link in my signature (provided you're a luddite like me using a computer instead of a smart phone). Once you have a copy of the FSM, go to page BE-11. It gives a breakout of the headlight circuit. Instead of measuring random wires, target the circuit. For instance, do you have 12 VDC to ground at each of the headlight fuses when the switch is on? Also, there is not a relay in the factory wiring for the headlights. Where is it located? What factory wires are connected to it? Is there only 1 relay? Normally there would be 2 for the headlights.