Yarb

Mark, are you talking about the 8001 sealant? We used to call that “Yellow death” in the machine shop. It’s nasty.....

Pick up some Kroil penetrating oil from Amazon. I’ve tried many different products and have had the best luck with this product. https://smile.amazon.com/Kano-Kroil-Penetrating-liquid-KROIL/dp/B000F09CF4

Mr. envy’s, when you say early 77 model do you have a ballast resistor in your ignition circuit?

Same here

Did you have a chance to get your bumpers mounted?

There are three areas you can check. The FSM has the diagnostic checks for the fuel pump circuit. Involves the afm, oil pressure switch and alternator. Chances are when the engine bay was refurbished there is an open circuit at one of those areas. The FSM will lead you through the diagnostics.

Might be jumping in late. My new ZCD ohms out at 1.8k. The original, I have no idea if it worked when removed measures open so that’s not a lot of help in comparison other than comparing it to Dr. Dave’s ZCD replacement.

I’ll measure it tomorrow when I get back to the shop. I’ll measure my replacement from ZCD as well.

Ok, hope this helps. I have both the original and a new ZCD unit on my bench. Removed the original and had the tank cleaned. original unit has 4 holes on the side. Two right below the clamp and two more near the bottom both on opposite sides. The one from ZCD only has three holes on the bottom and a narrow slot on the top for the wiring. Here’s a video of my original 78 unit. Excuse the shaky hand. 208E908D-5F22-4E3F-A2E6-2CF4BDF29EAD.MOV

Hey Zed, Ken’s transmission conversion came from my 78 280. I am doing the manual conversion on mine. I provided everything for his conversion directly off of my car. The trans package was a complete set.

Hey Ken, I am pretty sure the thin spacer is installed between the flex plate and crankshaft.

Do you know if there is a license plate delete option for the front bumper?

Thanks, already removed the old bumper and brackets. I need to remove that rear valance. Bought the spot weld tool from ZCD . The bottom welds look like there’s ample access, the upper not so much. Any tips on that we’ll appreciated. Hate to destroy it taking it off the car.

After reading your post SteveJ, I beginning to think that special brackets are needed for the 78 280 conversion.

I’m retrofitting my 280. I understand there are rubber insulators at certain mounting points.

Curious to hear how they fit. Did you buy Harrington’s brackets with the bumpers?

If you haven’t already, check out the Mishimoto stuff. Glad it worked for you. Hard to find any heavy hose thats not steel braid.

Try Mishimoto 1/2” PCV/CCV hose. It’s a tight fit but worked on my 78.

I just pulled a set off of a 83zx 2+2 which I’m pretty sure are the same used on the turbo. No play in the rotation on the axle collar on each end. They are on my bench so really hard to tell on flexing it back and forth for movement. These have 140k miles. Picked it up to part it out.

Have you tried cracking the line loose at the junction block to see if you have pressure there? Either way you’ll find out if it’s the line or the block.

Try giving Power brake exchange a call in San Jose. Ask if they have the parts in stock to rebuild your unit. I’ve used them in the past. Good People and easy to work with. Power Brake Exchange, Inc. - San Jose, Ca. Phone: (408) 292-1305 Fax: (408) 294-6817

Moog replacement parts are not fully greased. Apply grease until you see it weeping from the small nub on the boot. The boot will expand and it’s easy to see.

Looks like the same distributor as my Z. 1/78.

Thanks, Trying to buy a little at a time in preparation for a respray

What would you say percentage wise is it between OE and the aftermarket products? Mainly the windshield and hatch seals.