Yarb

Did you ever check the timing? That will tell us a-lot. Do you have a timing light at home? Really need to have a base line here.

Grab a can of Kroil oil and smother them good for a day. Much better than PB blaster.

Easy to do but recommended you change both sides. Pressure differential sometimes will blow the other side. Check your shoes to see if they are wet.

Speaking for myself, you’re taking a chance by still running that engine until you find out exactly where it coming from. If you didn’t have any strange noise until you’ve made a change then likely it’s something you’ve changed or altered. Good luck with your findings. Please report back.

I’d probably go reverse order on your pump install and see what you have. Those crickets are coming from somewhere. Could it be possible the plastic gear not meshing properly creating the noise?

Looks like you put two separate variables in the loop at one time. Backtrack, check your work and check every thing you touched. Have you checked the timing?

I think Banzai sells those as an assembly.

Sorry about that, went back in the thread and saw the address. They do produce it but are on back order.

@SteveJ , Does this supplier produce other tanks for the 280Z? Thanks..

CarPartsManual.com There you will find everything you need to know on model year/configuration. Once again please take a look. It’s the Z Bible on part number sourcing.

We’re you able to do a compression test/leak down measurement before disassembly?

Beat me to it @zedhead

Download or look for a FSM on EBay. The documentation is readily out there.

Looks like the wrong sensor. My 78 has the duel plug. Has to do with the fuel pump circuit.

Get a endoscope camera from Amazon for $30, there are 10 ft. And longer camera leads. It’s blue tooth. Set it up watch your caliper or WC on video and watch for bubbles. Used this with the speed bleeders. One man job and you can watch the real time video. Works great. Cool camera, you can use it for almost anything…

MSA has replacement shafts. Start fresh and the shafts they sell are stronger and have replacement joints.

@SteveJ Not sure I’ve heard this before about collection jar being above the bleeder. Is this necessary for the drum brakes in particular? Currently bleeding my new system with speed bleeders. Have a great pedal without booster assist. Fire the car up and pedal goes straight to the floor no resistance. I’ll start a new thread from here.

Very fortunate they did not snap off at the head. Still a lot of fun ahead once the housing is removed. Back and forth with small increments may have prevented them snapping off. Had about a 50% luck ratio trying that method. As you know sometimes it just isn’t going to budge….

I’ve always loved the sound a shotgun makes when your chambering a shell !!

Jar it with a sand hammer on both sides and it might pry off with a little persuasion. If you look at the FSM it will illustrate how it’s mounted on the head itself. Should pull off towards the driver side fender.

Looks like the one above number 1 intake/exhaust

Tried your link, No luck… takes me to the last page I viewed on Amazon.

Hey John, we’re you going to put that FPR on before you drop it in. Probably a lot easier than fighting with the FI hose leaning over the car. Pretty tight fit.

Getting that free money to stay home. Scary to think where you work is an open door to start a career and have benefits for a lifetime. Very Sad

Try tapping them in with a brass hammer or wooden block. Are you certain there bottomed out?