Yarb

My recommendation is to go back to the EFI section of the AFM. Start at the beginning and work your way through it recording every reading you get with your meter. Make notes and work through it. Chances are it’s multiple issues you are dealing with. There’s not a simple answer for these antiquated EFI cars. The more you check the more you will learn what makes the system tick. A lot of patience. Wish I had a better answer for you.

Make sure of the orientation of pin numbers so your not getting false readings. Its easy to do.

Sweet!!

At the ECU.

I had the same issue your experiencing and I basically set it to the factory idle speed after the aar closed.

@Terrapin Z

That really does look Great!, Nice work.

I recently completed the a/t to manual trans conversion. You definitely don’t need the pedal box. The provisions are there to mount the third pedal. Additionally you’ll need the narrower brake pedal as well. It will save you from having to remove the dash in-order to replace the box. There’s quite a lot of information here on the forum that guided me through the process. Hopefully you will receive the box and have all the individual components you need.

Yes you have to notch them here are before and after pics.

Vacuum lines for your AC system. Check out the FSM under AC controls and you will see the routing of the lines.

Looks like more Bondo on the bottom of the hood. Do yourself a huge favor and take it to a body shop with a lift. You might be surprised what you find.

You probably want to put that car on a lift at a reputable garage and check out the underside for damage and rust throughout the entire car. Looks like a lot of bondo on the rear deck lid just to start.

@Patcon simply asked for a ball park figure. The ballpark can be any size you like. You boast upon your find which I think is fantastic but a rude response was not necessary.

Need help from you guys identifying the manufacturer of this air dam. Thanks in advance… Yarb

Interesting… one frame rail!!

@Av8ferg I wish you success on this endeavor, Your efforts will help guide people like myself who will be attempting this in the near future.

@Zed Headwasn’t there an adapter plug for the alternator harness mentioned in an earlier thread from MSA that was required for the higher amperage alternators. Could that possibly be thrown in the mix? Just a thought

I’m currently running 205 60R15 tires on ZX turbo wheels. No clearance issues before I removed the factory shocks. Once the park bench bumpers were removed the car rose 2-3 inches all the way around. Lowered it back down and have plenty of clearance.

Yes Sir.. thank you

Does either company eliminate the factory heater control valve and incorporate it into their system? Heading the same direction as @Av8ferg

@Jeff G 78is this offset true for say bc racing coilovers? I’ve got considerable more room between tire and strut now that the factory coils are gone.

Thanks. Appreciate the advice

Sorry Jeff there were two posts. Check out the other one. Submitted before adding the pics on the first one.🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️🤦‍♂️

Do you recommend undercoating the lower section? Rocks etc.

Gotcha, Thanks for clarifying that for me..