Yarb

To clarify, My setup is a R200 LSD with BC Coil over shocks. Everybody’s setup will vary at some point.

I was not saying it was a Silvermine problem. Surely there are a lot of folks that had success. As I mentioned earlier in the post I had an issue with binding. Could have been the axles who knows. What they produce, fit and function were fine.

Don’t want to place a valuable supplier on notice when it could have been something I missed. I did try everything to keep them from binding.

I have a kit I had professionally welded together from Silvermine with the same cv axles. Pm me if you would like my input on these. Been down that road.

If you’re changing the struts also,Do your self a favor. Drop the assembly on a trans scissor jack from HF and go from there. I did it the hard way piece by piece.

Since you’re doing a complete rebuild/upgrade it might be easier to drop the entire rear assembly and disassemble on the ground.

Did you test the movement of the seat rail on the seat before you tried to install it in the car. There are numerous reasons why it can’t slide for and aft.

Datsun Spirit

You didn’t give a measurement with the engine running that would give a voltage output.

Are you familiar with using a volt/ohm meter. I may have missed it but In don’t see any measurements being made.

Here is a pic off my 78 fuel dampener

Order one with the pulley.

Recently bought a stainless fuel line kit from SSTube. 1/3 of the cost. Good people and they answer the phone. Hand made in house.

Fuel pressure regulator that mounts on the engine fuel rail.

My 78 has them

Aren’t they the seals that adhere to the top of the frame itself?

Search the forum you will find plenty of carpet threads

Here is what worked for me. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/280z/z-rotor-spacers-s12w-4-piston-toyota-caliper-conversion

Contact Gnose on the forum. Send him a pm and he will get back to you

240 rails are far different thank 280. You need to do a lot of research before you purchase. 75-78 rails are the same. Been down this road like others here.

What can you tell us about the engine you will be pairing this to.

That’s fantastic, Keep up the good work friend

Please be sure to check the valve lash adjustment. Best of luck to you friend. Been through a lot.

Talked to Max today and told him to stock up and add more shipping folks!!

Has anyone measured the current draw on this rebuilt starter to determine if it’s overloading the circuit? I had mentioned in an earlier post that I had the same issue. I mentioned the resolution without adding a relay into the mix. I struggled with this for over a week and found that starter itself was the issue even though I could crank the car with my remote starter. As Zed mentioned that the harness is old and breaks down over time. My solution was the later model gear reduction starter. After the issue was resolved I took the original rebuilt starter to a alt./starter rebuild shop that confirmed it was pulling way to much current/amperage.