26th-Z

I was just going to say that you could qualify for the Street Modified class. Jim's advice about CLEAN is the key to winning. It's been five or six years since I judged and I authored the rules a couple of versions ago. The point deduct method of judging allows for normal wear in the Daily Driver class but is more strict in the other classes. On the other hand, I once saw a guy with a really nice stock 240Z enter in the Daily Driver class and blow the competition away because his car was so clean and so nearly stock. Rather than take the points hit in the Stock class, he entered in the more tolerant class and didn't get the points deduct.

These are two of the clearest pictures I have. Although this is not the earliest of cars, the brightwork is very nice and clear in color. One thing we noticed was the clamp for the coil. It is silver zinc on my cars.

The Road & Track road test in April 1970 reports a top speed of 122 mph for the HLS30. Interestingly, the Road & Track introductory article on the Datsun 240Z shows the 5-speed as optional with a 3.70:1 final drive ratio. Indeed the 5-speed transmission was optional for the 2 liter roadster at the time. Another issue I would like to take with the Petrolicious article is "S20 straight six in place of the normal car’s L24". The normal (Japanese home market with which the 432 is compared) car had a 2 liter straight six, not a 2.4 liter. In addition, reason number 3 is pure speculation. It would be possible to research that fact, but the writer didn't.

It always helps to SEARCH the archives: http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/25508-question-regarding-distributor-cap/?hl=%2Boriginal+%2Bgreen+%2Bdistributor#entry221376

Do ALL the pistons look like that? The small, evenly spread out pits are from detonation which is not good. The big chunks and divots are from something broken (like a piston ring). Either way, those pistons are junk and you are just asking for trouble by using them. The bore clearances couldn't possibly be within tolerance and with the damage you are showing on just the one piston, I would expect the piston to break at some point in the future.

Where's the car? The original owner bought it here in Sarasota.

Although the pulley Kennymonster is using doesn't look like this one, Nissan competition part # 12303-E4100 with the correct front bolt and washer.

Unfinished, no color, unpainted iron grey. Your car had the externally regulated alternator known as the grapefruit because of the housing design. Do a search "Grapefruit Alternator". You'll find http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/30365-series-1-engine-paint-plan-details-please/?hl=%2Bgrapefruit+%2Balternator#entry270202 which discusses the engine finishes question you have been asking.

I'm familiar with rock tumbling / polishing as my sister does a lot of that. So I used Eastwood's green media in a tumbler rather than their vibrator. Same sort of mix proportions. All my stuff came out looking great. Cleaned up the threads with a tap and die set; sent the stuff out to be plated.

The curly haired guy looks like Boris Said.

$96,200 +

The bolt with the flange head is a later style. The bolt with no markings and separate washer is 'correct' for your car, Careless. I like your idea of restoring the original hardware instead of replacing it.

Send your dash out to be recovered. There must be a million threads about the topic in the archives.

Pictures of engine color overspray on oil pans. One is my early oil pan and the other is a later pan design with overspray. My engine mounts came with overspray also.

Thanks for all the comments, interesting comments, and thoughts about this car. I wish to extend the FOX News award to Marc and Jimbo for reporting from the event and not knowing who bought the car. I was surprised to see it sell so high and I tend to think it was oversold. What were those blue bullet holes?

Greetings, First I want to ask what you consider the difference between cad and yellow zinc. Most of my recommendations are going to fall into the 'light yellow / gold / silver' range for describing the finish. I have seen many attempts to replicate this finish. Some are way too yellow / gold. So for conversational purposes, 'zinc' is silver in color, 'cad' is that yellow / golden / silvery color. Brake lines and mounting hardware are cad. Rear brake drums are unfinished natural aluminum. The differential is painted semi-gloss black - all of it. The hood latch mechanism is cad. The door latches are zinc. Most all of the suspension hardware including the drivetrain mounting hardware is cad. The compression rod washers are zinc. Originally, the inspected , torqued, mounting hardware for the suspension and drivetrain was brushed in yellow paint however the compression rod hardware was red paint

I would imagine a couple to three hundred dollars minimum.

The eight counterweight crankshaft described in technical bulletin TS70-28 on August 21, 1970 replaces the six counterweight crankshaft beginning with engine serial number L24-3607.

Your car looks great, Kats! I wish I had known you were going to speak with Mr. Uemura and Mr. Osawa because I have so many questions to ask them. I have so much more information about that time in 1969 now. By the time they came to America with their cars, the HLS30 was in full swing production. "Testing" the new design was already complete. The American press introductions were during that time. And I wonder how much 'testing' was really the subject of their project. Rather, I am lead to believe, they came to America to drive the cars and show them to Datsun dealers.

Yea, well the SPL 310 didn't have an 18 year production run either. And now that I have been sucked in with a post on this thread; how did you arrive at "Finally Recognizes" Bryan? Hagerty has been writing articles about the 240Z for several years now.

Bob Bondurant writes: http://www.bondurant.com/pit-row/news/farewell-mr-k-my-friend

Mr. K was in Syracuse for the 2005 ZCCA convention. Steve Millen took both Mr. and Mrs. K for hot laps around Watkins Glen. I think that was the last ZCCA convention he attended.

Here's where we get the chance to slam a newbie for not using the search function! SLAM! SLAM! This topic has been covered ad-nauseum with passionate pleas and violent name-calling from some of the oldest experts to the youngest of virgins. Here is a good website that sells good products. http://store.carcareonline.com/ My recommendations don't include anything that has silicone in it.

Try this link for fiberglass body parts. http://home.att.ne.jp/sky/FairladyZ/index.htm I don't know how 'current' this site is. The text is impossible for me to read but the pictures tell much and there are e-mail links posted on the site.