26th-Z

I copied off these two shots from the archived forums. One is about the interior switches, and the second is a front shot of a license plate I would like to have.

As long as you are on-line, let me ask how you came up with the numbers so fast. Do they appear in a fiche you have and if so, what section?

Many, many thanks. Its people like you who make this club rock. I begin my quest in the morning.

Mike, I did something this afternoon I rarely do and beg your forgiveness - I checked the wiring diagram! The 1971 Nissan Chassis Workshop Manual shows the fog light wires. Sure enough, the wiring diagram from the site's downloads shows the red wire. I was confused some time ago when I bought a used console on E-bay and got two switches with it - rear hatch defroster and "parking lights". My 70 console just has blanks in the spot. I think the 71 diagram shows the connection there. Going back through your forum achives revealed just what I was looking for, confirming the switch type I have in my dash 25370-E4100 and the later switch on the console 25370-E8700 I bought. Great photo of the lamps in "Switch Coversation". Can anyone tell me the part number of the lamps? You should find some extra red wires in the harness up near the horns.

That's what I thought. I pm'd you about the engine bay light.

Mike, I have the same situation including a switch that looks like the hazard switch in the second indent. It is connected to the spares?-perhaps. I remember my car with driving lights years before I bought it, but they are gone now. I was asking in the dash restoration forum, but the subject was getting away from the forum. Lights were an option from the options catalog not published in the US at the time my car was purchased (I believe). I am interested in putting the lights on my car, and I have been asking around for them. I would also be interesting in an options catalog from 1970. What I want to know is how the lights mounted.

I liked the rear bumper on the white Fairlady. No uprights - just the corner rubber. Can something like that be done to the front "Euro" bumper?

$300 for a 10' X 15' concrete slab is about the going rate installed ($1.50 / sq. ft.). Pavers cost about $1.20 / sq. ft. for material only. For working on a car, the slab should be at least level, smooth. An epoxy based sealer finish is really great for keeping it clean. Try one of those floor products advertised on the motorhead channel. 4" of concrete will hold the load pressures from jack stands easily. Pavers will not give you this performance and in the worst case, could be dangerous if one crushes under the pressure of a jack stand. Consider how long you will be renting and amortize the $300 over that period to get a monthly cost. Consider a mortgage on a 2500 sq. ft. home - 3000 sq. ft. including a two car garage. A monthly mortgage payment of $750 equates to $125 a month for the garage. There are some numbers to chew on.

As a buyer, I have had some fun on E-bay with experience mostly good, but I'm moving on to dealing with the network of people I met and places I found. I generally see the "new" stuff bid way out of sight and with a little detective work, I have found places to buy the same stuff at or below the opening price. I have never been ripped off or had a deal go south. I think E-bayers keep it pretty honest. E-bay has its place. In a few months, it got me well connected and my restoration project off the ground. I continue to browse and bottom fish, but I go to other places for specific stuff.