Ed

I would venture to guess that you have a fuel problem. If it was the timing you wouldn't be able to keep it running at high revs. And if it was iginition it wouldn't run at all.

It depends on how much you have the head milled. There is a maximum tolerance before the slack on the timing chain causes problems. Can't remember what it is off the top of my head, I'm guessing it's around .030. Don't know about the different headers, maybe the exhaust port on the head (round vs. square). I ran my su's with a header and no problems. I think that the su's will do fine until you go to a larger displacement ie.. 280z. A big boost in HP would be to do the L28 swap. Save the L24 for going to get groceries.

Can't find any of the wiring either. All the holes for the voltage regulator, fuel filter, wiring harness etc,, have been removed. Very clean!!

If you have a shop manual it should tell you how.

I believe all head bolts are the same from 70-78. I would suggest spending some extra bucks and getting the ARP bolts. You will be increasing the compression with the flat top pistons in the F54 and the extra bit of insurance will make it bulletproof. I've heard the turbo bolts are pretty good too. Torque specs for stock bolts should be the same. Torque specs for the ARP bolts are different. When I updated to my 5sp I went with the 81 clutch and pressure plate it looked like it was bigger/beefier with more surface area. I think they all bolt in the same.

If I remember correctly the N33 is from a early 260. Most of the bolt holes were to hold brackets for water and fuel lines. I can't remember which was what. A picture could help if you have one. The flying saucer IS your vacume advance and should not be blocked. There should be a small vacume hose going from your intake manifold to the nipple on the vacume advance. There should also not be any leaks on your intake manifold. Hope this helps.

The first thing I thought of when you said whining noise was a bad diff. Like with anything your gonna have to look around and try to find where it's actually coming from to be sure. Let us know and we will help.

Ivan, It almost sounds like your battery took a dump. As they go bad they won't hold a charge anymore. I'm not sure if you have this service available over there but here in the U.S. you can take your battery to an automotive supply store and they will test your battery no charge. And if you do replace the battery some good insurance is to change the voltage regulator especially if it's still the original.

Happy Birthday!

After my baby treats me bad I take her for a long drive. After the flawless drive I pull up in my driveway, turn her off, then I just sit there for a few, thinking........ yea, you are sweet, nice ride! Thank you....... It's worth it

Question, When I do a compression check I don't have the engine running. I pull all the plugs and just crank the engine over a couple of times until the needle on the guage doesn't move anymore. Am I doing it wrong?

You shouldn't have any problems. Take the shifter also as you might need it.

This might not help but, I thought I'd pass it on just in case. On my motorcycle. 1974 CB750. I had the same problem with the front brakes. After about 10 pumps the brakes would stay locked and get extremely hot. I finally found that the brake pad was sticking in the caliper. Maybe your shoes are sticking?

Try being on a bumpy road after 15 yrs of marrage! Not to mention the kids!:dead:

DITTO!!!

Start by making sure your distruibutor drive timing is correct. 1. Remove valve cover. 2. Remove plugs. 3. Remove cap&rotor. 4. Turn crankshaft until timing mark on crankshaft pulley lines up with 0 degree timing mark. 5. Using a flashlight look inside # 1 cylinder and make sure the piston is at Top Dead Center. 6. Now pay attention to the camshaft. Make sure that the # 1 valve lobes are both pointed up so that the intake and the exhaust valves are closed. If not then rotate the crankshaft 360 degrees. From here check to make sure your "dizzy" (rotor) is pointed in the right direction. From the drivers side (in the U.S.) looking at the motor. If the front of the car is 9 o'clock and the passenger front wheel is 12 o'clock then the dizzy should point halfway between 11 and 12 o'clock. (Not 100 percent on that correct me if I need it guys). With the wide side on the left.

Becareful the wife doesn't find out.

Sealer is not required but I've noticed that some shops put some of that copper high-temp sealer on the gasket. If you are using headers then a sealer might help maintain the seal. I don't know about you guys but those "special" gaskets from MSA for headers seem to develop cracks. I think we have discussed this one before.

It's gonna depend on what get's done: PARTS: belts plugs hoses cables points cap rotor condenser gaskets filters fluids? Add that to about $60.00+ an hour labor. If you can do any of these yourself you would save a couple of bucks.

Nice, now that looks and sounds like a nice clean car. We gotta see some more pics.

If you applied some of this stuff to the outside skin of the door wouldn't it retain moisture?

You can get gear oil at any automotive supply store. It is usually a 80-90w. I used a synthetic oil in mine and haven't had any problems.

My car has the exact same welds.:classic:

Maybe you should spend your money wisely and upgrade the suspension components first. Remember you must also be able to stop. Get a reliable solid running car. Then when you have the time and money buy that engine stand and slowly build yourself an engine.