Ed

I'd say either call the boys up at Z therapy. Or take it to a machine shop.

How is the question. I couldn't do it.

I took my shifter to a machine shop and they cut it 1-1/2". I really like it, though I can't say that I'm shifting any faster.

Thanks for the info guys! Definately gave me some more thinking to do.

Caen, I love your limo Z. I think you might have given someone an idea.:classic:

I've got a question for you guys. Sorry it has nothing to do with our cars, but this has been a place where I've always gotten good advice. I have an invention that I'm gonna try and patent. I was wondering if anyone out there has gone through this and if you had any advice. Thanks

I have the ceramic coated headers with the heat shield for the round tops. Never had a problem, even on those extremely hot days going through Arizona in the summer with the A/C running.

Like Lance said I wouldn't want anything remaining inside the combustion chamber either. If you do use the tubing make sure you use atleast a 10 inch piece. I use a piece of 1/4" fuel line. Feed it through the sparkplug hole towards the valve to be worked. Rotate the piston to secure the tube. To free the keepers I compress the spring then I tap the top of the valve stem with the plastic handle of a screw driver until it breaks free. Then if the screwdriver has a magnetic tip you can use that to retrieve the keepers.:classic:

I would think you could do it without removing the cam. Couldn't you remove the slack from the rocker arms. Then pull the rocker arms out of the way. Stick a piece of tubing in the spark plug hole (to hold the valve up) and turn the engine (by hand) until the piston pushes the tubing against the valve. Next use a spring compressor and remove the springs. MSA sells a spring compressor that requires the cam to remain on the head. If you do decide to remove the cam then get the cam chain tensioner tool. It holds the cam chain tensioner in place when there is slack in the chain. If this tensioner pops out of place you will end up having to remove the front cover. P.I.T.A!!!

The only thing I've ever got to work was using white molybenum (sp?) grease. Make sure you take the whole thing apart and lube every spot that comes in contact with another.

It was a good race I must say. Probably one of the best of the year. I guess we need to ask for rain more often. I tell you what after the first set of pits I was really confused. How did Kimi loose his lead? How did Montoya fall back so fast? Good race!

This is probably why they had so much BMW/Montoya coverage:

Alan, can we pick on the differences we notice on your second picture, the proto-2? I'm wondering if it's an illusion or does the fender (wing) blend with the headlight bucket? Maybe a one piece? And what is that dark shadow by the right rear tire? Are the bumper guards larger? Just wondering.

I love it! That was great. Made my day! That first Z with the sloted mag rims, what engine does it have? And I really dig the music!

And here is the after picture.

The rust I had looked almost like yours. I didn't know for sure until I removed all of the tar paper and cleaned it real good. I ended up only having to replace a 10" square under the seat support. I bought a couple of 12" x 12" x 18 guage pieces of sheet metal then just formed and cut. Here is the before picture.

You could also take it to an automotive detail shop. Where they can buff out the paint. But with a cheap paint job you can expect it to get dull again in a few months.

Not sure but it looks like the hood or bonnet for you English folk goes all the way to the windshield. It doesn't look like it has the cowling.

Boy this brings back a bad memory. Only differance was I had a Subaru 4X4 trans on my chest. Damn thing was heavy. I laid there for about 15 minutes trying to muster up the strength to move it.:stupid:

I installed a red top optima back when my car was on the road. To hold it down I used the "stock" Z battery hold down and fabricated a metal bracket 1" wide and 3" long. Measured the distance between the hole on the firewall and the top of the battery hold down, drilled the holes and presto. Custom battery hold down. Works great!

I have the ones on the front but nothing in the rear. Any chance someone could post a close up picture of the one in the rear. I'm thinking it couldn't hurt to put atleast one on there. A couple of years ago I had to have my Z towed. And the tow truck driver not knowing any better put one of those big metal hooks into a small drain hole on the body and stretched the sheet metal. I was not happy.

I was reading (drooling) my fall issue of Sport Z. Checking out the centerfold (again). That beautiful Orange 1973Z up in Minnesota. :love: Anyway I noticed that there were some tow/tie down hooks by the rear bumper guards. Are these homemade? Or are they available some where?

I see you bailed out of Buffalo. Enjoy Charleston. I did about 4 months down there and loved it. Especially down town:classic:

If it doesn't have too much rust I would think it would be a great candidate for a resto. To me it seems like the car hasn't been butcherd too bad. It still has the original hub caps!

I use the rattle can for small items. Like suspension parts or engine parts. Mostly just for detailing. Then I stepped over the line and decided to paint the gas tank on my motorcycle. Not too bad but you can definately tell the difference.