Ed

Carl, Ya had me going there for a bit.

They have quite a colorful and diverse vocabulary on that site.

I think I see a bigger shed in your future.:classic:

On the rear side of the window/door there are four screws that hold the window channel in place, from the top, there is one behind the door pannel in the top corner, next there are two on the inside of the doorjam about 2 inches apart above the latch mechanism and then there is one on the bottom at the doorjam below the latch mechanism. Loosen up all four and you might be able to move it about 1/8 of an inch. You might also want to double check that your door is alligned properly. It might be a hinge problem. And last make sure your frame is straight.

Robert, I hope you don't have to lay under your car while removing undercoating. It's a messy, nasty job.

Your smoke was probably just steam. I don't think you dammaged your car that bad. Like 2many suggested dry it out change fluids and she should be alright.

I'll try and describe what it means. Camber = When mounted on a vehicle, viewing the drivers (left front) wheel from the front. If the wheel is perfectly verticle then you have zero camber. If the top of the wheel sticks in or towards the car \ then you have negative camber. If the top of the wheel sticks out or away from the car / then you have positive camber. This is usually adjusted either at the lower "A" arm or at the upper strut/shock mount. hope this helps.

In case you don't know. Line X is a similar product to Rhino Lining. A spray on liner used for the beds of pick-up trucks. I went to a body shop today to talk to the guys there about my car. We got on the subject of spraying Line X to the undercarrage and wheel wells. Now my plan was to strip to bare metal and protect it with POR-15. Then cover it with Line X. The body shop guy told me that the Line X can be sprayed directly to bare metal. No primer. And he said that it's guaranteed not to rust. The Line X is non porous and will seal the metal. If this is true then I could save a pretty penny and a lot of time. What do you guys think? Line-X

Very interesting stuff.

If you can get a flat tipped screw driver in there you can pry it out. I've done it a couple of times like that and never broken the plastic clip.

Good to see that the majority have real ones.

Gary, besides the obvious cost factor I think there might be a performance issue. I'm not sure here so pipe in someone. Opening the exhaust with duels would cause you to loose bottom end torque but will give you more power at the upper rpm range. And vice versa, moderate restriction would gain low end torque but you would loose power at the upper rpm range. I think......

Don't forget to replace the gasket and take advantage of this opportunity to flush and replace the coolant.

Hey Jeff, I feel your pain. I can't answer all your questions but will help you where I can. I installed an electronic ignition from a 81 on my 240. And I did have to use the ignition module that was on the distributor already. Just make sure your getting 12v to the module. I can't remember where the wires go exactly but I followed the wiring diagram that is on zcargarage (my car is in pieces otherwise I could go and look). I would think if the wiring to the distributor was messed up your car wouldn't start at all. When you do get it running you said you have to keep pumping the gas to keep it going. How does it seem to run when it is running? What rpm's does it get to? When I had my timing off by one tooth at the distributor she wouldn't run at all. It would start idle really rough and as soon as you gave it some gas it would die. I'm not that familiar with the holley carb but doesn't it squirt gas into the manifold when the butterfly's are opened? Is this a new carb?

Hammer time.:classic:

I got the play sand for outside jobs and have been pretty pleased with the results. I'm building a blasting cabinet out of an old freezer and was wondering if I used the sand there on aluminium what would happen. I'm gonna get some glass beads for the cabinet.

Thanks Guys.

There are different types of blasting media out there. I was wondering if a specific type is better for a particular application. Or certain surfaces. So far I've encountered: Sand Glass Bead Aluminium Oxide Walnut shell Any others?

I'm getting that funny feeling, like when I used to climb the rope in gym class:love:

I'd put my money on a mustache bar bushing.

I had my electric fuel pump disconnected and ran only on the mechanical. No problems.

The ARP (Automotive Racing Products) bolts are high grade/high strength bolts. Stronger than the stock bolts. Although we are probably overdoing it on a street engine. But if you have ever seen an engine after an old rod bolt goes bad:disappoin :dead: . Atleast as a minimum on any rebuild use NEW rod bolts. The ARP bolts will let you feel a little better inside when you hold that gas pedal down and the engine is pushing 6K. You could order them through any automotive store, part #202-6003 which are for the L24-L28 series. VB and MSA sells them.

German parts are for German cars. Japanese parts are for Japanese cars. American parts are for American cars. Harley parts are for Harleys.

ScoHo was talking about the manifold. Seerex I think your talking about the balance tube.

What is your timing set at?