Mark Maras

Be sure to hold the throttle wide open when testing the compression.

Addressing the acceleration problem, grab a repair manual (any will do) and tune it up. It's quite easy to learn and do. The tuneup includes resetting the valve lash which may bring those compression #s up. They should be above 165.

It looks like an unfinished project to me. The crack does look like a hacksaw cut but unless that cut was filled with weld the gap would close up eventually. "Seemed like a good idea at the time". We've all had them.

Mesh size is certainly relevant but the ability of a fabric to readily absorb moisture, water and lipids (oil, grease) is equally as important. The moisture absorbing properties of cotton, wool and polyester are vastly different.

and a new set of spark plugs.

We need some background info. What negative symptoms caused the rebuild. Who rebuilt them and were the linkages, throttle shafts, float bowls totally taken apart? What source are you using as a reference guide for tuning and what have you tried to get it running correctly? The float setting is the primary mixture adjustment.

The engine has to be drawing more air to increase revs. Have you checked for vacuum leaks? The pistons should be difficult to lift, They will rise slowly with constant pressure and drop much faster with an audible tap when they hit bottom. Heavier oil delays the piston rise during acceleration which acts the same as an accelerator pump. The nozzles must return to the top when the choke knob is in the off position. Misadjusted cables are often the cause but frequently the flat bar linkage that pulls the nozzles down needs a bit of twist to precisely align it's mating surfaces. Lube the pivot points and the exterior of the nozzles with lithium grease.

They're not American Racing Vector. I have a set. I believe all the Vectors were ten spoke.

Here are the CDC estimated influenza related deaths by year. 2018-2019, 34,157 2017-2018, 61,099 2016-2017, 38,230 2015-2016, 22,705 2014-2015, 51,376 2013-2014, 37,930 2012-2013, 42,570 2011-2012, 12,447 2010-2011, 36,656 This year we're already at 150,000+ Covid-19 deaths and it's climbing after a slow start.

Welcome. I've never heard of anyone having to bleed the air out of a fuel line. My 71 engine bay fuel filter (mechanical pump only) was never full but if you're seeing bubbles being pumped into the filter there's a leak somewhere in the system, probably between the electric pump and the fuel pick-up in the tank. Assuming you replaced the parts to cure the poor performance and your carbs are SUs, have you checked the filters in the banjo fittings on top of the float bowls? The float levels are the primary mixture adjustments. An inexpensive Fram clear plastic fuel filter between the tank and the elec. pump will let you know if there's still debris in the tank.

It would be a good idea to tag and bag any fasteners and small parts. Should there ever be another owner, they will be forever grateful.

No, But I soooo want one.

The only review I could find was from a fellow with an old Vette that solved his vapor lock problem with the 33054. There are actually several three port filters available from Wix. I'm betting the only difference between them is the port location and the tube size. The 33040 was used by most of the American manufacturers back then. The 33054 was Chrysler only. Go for it.

Pics of the tear down would be great.

I think it needs a hole in the top to allow ALL the air to escape.

Many Z owners in the past reported the 1st gen. (circa 1980) Rx7s elec. fuel pumps were almost silent and were a great replacement in a Z. I've put many miles in an 80 RX7 and don't ever remember hearing the pump. Getting back to vapor lock, has anyone ever tried installing a Vapor Separator Fuel Filter under the hood? One inlet and two outlets. One outlet to the carbs and one to the return line. Good up to 75 psi. They were OEM parts on many American cars back in the 1960s and 1970's.Wix 33040 is the one I looked at. I've yet to find one negative review when it comes to solving vapor lock.

The qualities start with a big ego.

I noticed in the OE one there's a hole in the top and side but in the new one the holes are in the ends. Is it possible there's an air bubble in the top of the unit that could be eliminated with a hole in the top?

The "Someday, like a miracle it will go away", Trump talked about in the beginning is coming true.

Be sure to reset the nozzles to 2 1/2 turns.

Those compression #s look low to me. I would expect #s in the high 160s. Did you hold the throttle wide open when you were turning it over?

Not if they're from a "fake news channel".

I've experienced a high (5000'+) altitude misfire with SUs. The misfire was consistent all across the RPM range. It was temporarily solved by raising the nozzles 1/2 turn.

While it's running and bucking erratically, ease the choke on and see if the symptom changes. If it improves, lower the nozzles in 1/2 turn increments until the choke no longer improves the performance. Hesitation, under a load is caused by lack of fuel.

Not if you keep everything including the nuts and bolts.