Mark Maras

That kinked float bowl to fuel nozzle hose is going to be a problem. That hose needs to be super flexible (Ztherapy hoses are silicone). Normally the problem isn't in the fuel delivery to the nozzle. Stiff hoses will bind up the nozzles, preventing them from returning to the non-choke position (up) when the choke knob is forward (off). Looking at the pic again, You might be able to relieve some of the kink by reversing the hose.

If I remember correctly @siteunseen has plugged those coolant lines.

Co2/argon is my choice for shielding gas but pure co2 will work as well as the mix. I used it for years in one of my jobs. I've found there's a bit more splatter to clean up but the big plusses are the cost and you get more co2 in a bottle than co2/argon mix. It was explained to me by an employee of Airgas that when you add argon to co2, the gas will no longer compress into a liquid. Using argon/co2 you'll have less clean-up but higher costs.

@Captain Obvious

I'm going to assume the floats are set correctly and the mixture screws are about 2 1/2 turns down, correct me if I'm wrong. Try lifting both carb pistons and drop them at the same time. They should be very difficult to lift but should drop at a much faster rate. Both should feel the same when you lift them and they should land at the same time or nearly so. Compare the piston heights when it's idling, accelerating and at about 3000 rpms.

The valve seals are known to go bad long before piston rings.

Pull the sending unit and assess the amount of crust on it that may be preventing movement. Don't try to move it if it's stuck. Check it for electrical continuity with an ohm meter. If the circuit is good, soak the unit in CLR for a day or two until it comes out clean.

You're correct that there were no Nissan dealers back then in the early 70s, however, there was a Nissan (factory) building in Beaverton, Oregon. I knew a fellow who worked there.

There are those exceptions that were driven on the highways most of the time. They generally don't show as much interior wear.

Remove the Kubota names and put Tonka on it. After all, It's just a big sandbox toy for big kids.

3.5 psi is a good pressure for carbs. Have you done a fuel volume test. Pressure and volume are not the same thing. You can have one without the other.

Things (prevention) are more clear to a lot of people but not everyone. It really is too bad that mask wearing is becoming a political statement. This latest surge is caused by lack of social distancing, period. When people get together without due care and caution, there'll be a surge in Covid-19 in that area within a week. !5%-30% (depending where in the world they are) of hospitalized patients require renal therapy (or outpatient dialysis) due to kidney failure. Currently, there is not enough equipment or technicians to deal with a substantial surge in Covid-19.

Resistance causes heat at the point of resistance. If the blades that hold the fuse are clean, take a look underneath it. Frequently the soldered wire connection to the blades needs resoldered.

The installation instructions caution about moisture (water, coffee, etc.) and state that the passenger compartment is recommended because if it does trigger you won't have to get out of the car to reset it.

Are saying the star wheel and the hole don't line up, making them non-adjustable manually?

A quick look on Trico's website didn't turn up any of your numbers. They do have 15 different wipers listed for early Zs. Left and right wipers are the same.

Ditto, 10/70 build date.

I agree. Has the car been repainted?

Put about a quarter cup of your favorite penetrant in each cylinder and a diaper (nappy) under the block before you store it. Those pistons may need to come out later.

Welcome. Your 260 appears to be in quite good shape and quite original. Congratulations on a great find. Most of us have had to start on a Z that was in much worse shape than yours. What are your plans for it?

Often times the wear on the rubber pedal covers is a good indication of the miles . Not an exact science but considerable wear could show the difference between 60,000 miles and 160,000 miles.

Yep, it usually is the slave cylinder. both times it happened to me I was enroute to somewhere. I can tell you from experience that a Z is very easy to drive without an operating clutch pedal. Little problem shifting up or down (as long as you match revs to the trans speed) , the fun comes at a stop light when you have to turn off the engine. 1st gear, half throttle, turn the key, it chugs forward a couple of feet and you're on your way.

You can also pull the rubber grommet on the bellhousing where the clutch release arm enters. While a friend pushes the clutch pedal look inside the bellhousing to see if the pressure plate is moving.

The rotor should point directly at #1 when at TDC.

And loosen the rubber boot on the slave cylinder to check for fluid. It should be dry inside. If it's wet replace the cylinder and consider replacing the master cylinder at the same time. They both have a similar lifespan.