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AChev

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About AChev

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  1. L28 280Z engine from 1st generation 280Z (S30 chassis) with alternator and fan clutch attached. This engine was given to me years ago (~2006). I have not run it, it was stored in garage for entire time it was in my possession. $200 OBO - The engine will be sold AS-IS and is at minimum good for parts. I can help you load via our fork-lift or engine crane. Engine stand is not included. The engine is located in PA in the Lehigh Valley Please PM me if you are interested.
  2. AChev

    AChev

  3. Ok, so the time has come so I have to bite the bullet and sell the project for several reasons. I wrote a thread about this vehicle a few weeks ago, now I've returned from my vacations with even less time to sell the car. This vehicle/parts lot needs to be sold by the 24th of August, I'm running out of time. The long and the short of it is, the vehicle was a project I started a long while ago, got in to deep, and now am moving out of the house and my garage space allotment is no longer. I purchased the vehicle the 1973 240Z in 2003, it had a 4 spd manual. When purchased it ran and drove very well, everything was functional and in tact. All head lights an tailights remain un cracked. The dashboard has a few light cracks from weathering, all though it remains in excellent condition. The seats are in fantastic condition with only a small, roughly a half an inch long tear on the passengers seat. Both windshield are fully intact with no cracks. There is light rust around the windsheild with a hole about a dime in size. There was also a small rust hole in the usual cowel spot on the drivers side fender. The floorboards were fairly rusted, not too badly though, hence the purchase of the floor panels (later mentioned). Orginal jack and wheel chocks in cluded. Since then the vehicle has ben completely stripped all parts were shelved, all bolts were placed in plastic ziplock bags and labeled appropriately. I completely stand by my word that all parts that were originally on the vehicle have not been lost and are all accounted for. Since accquiring the vehicle I have purchased the following for it which are all including in the sale: L28 engine - bored out .030", high compression pistons, hot cam.- purchased from previous owner of the car, he verified that it ran Full set of Tokico HP shocks and springs Complete set of urethane bushings Floor panels and frame rails from Zedd Findings I also sand blasted and refinished all front suspension components with a rust proofer and coated in chassis black from EastWood. As it stands, the vehicle is a bare shell with back suspension and diff still attached so you can pick up the front of the car and move it easily to push it in and out of a truck. The original engine is also included in the sale, although it has been dismantled so I could move it into the basement. All parts were kept in excellent condition and would be an easy rebuild. All other parts are in my garage on shelves. Any reaonable offers considered Anybody interested feel free to contact me with any questions or concerns Phone: 484-515-9681 E-mail: ars82@Pitt.edu I will be posting photos of the vehicle in its current condition, and also how it appeared before I stripped it.
  4. Yea, I assume you all are correct. I don't really have too much of a choice, and if I had a chance to go back I would have still purchased the vehicle, excellent experience, plus it resulted in a great tool collection. As much as I would like to take a little time each week working on it, an internship is slightly more important to put the time into. I still get my automotive fix while at school through our Formula SAE team, which keeps me goin while I'm there. I'm located in Emmaus right outside Allentown. I guess I'll have to create a classified tomorrow. If anyone on this thread is interested just let me know. Thanks for the advice guys, it helps out hearing it from older guys who have gone through the same thing
  5. Ok so I purchased a 1973 that ran and was in fairly good condition, it needed some paint and minor rust repair and that was it. The car was fully complete and ran very well. I began stripping the car with the intention that if I wanted to paint the car I would like to have it done correctly. Then I eventually gained the mindset if I was stripping the car I might as well do everything there is to do. Then my summers began to consist of full time jobs, then I left for college. Now I am approaching the breaking point, my father tells me that I need to rid the garage of the project because I plan on not living at home next summer. So here I am with a completely stripped Z frame, all the parts organized on a shelf. In addition to the original equipment, over the years I had purchased a 280Z engine bored out .030, high compression pistons, and a hot cam. I also sand blasted and refinished the front suspension and purchased all new tokico struts and springs along with complete set of new bushings. There is also a set of floorboards and frame rails here as well. Upon completion the vehicle would have been a killer ride. The possibility of me completing the car at this point is non-existant. I have the money to complete the restoration although the time and space is the limiting factor. I go to school in Pittsburgh, 5 hours away from my house. I have thought about storing the project until I can resume, although that will not be until I graduate from college and can afford to have my own garage which will be 3 or more years. I also thought about selling it to another enthusiast, although i feel my chances of finding a buyer on an already stripped vehicle are slim, even though all the parts are here. Does anybody have any suggestions? I'm running out of time
  6. I am just curious where you got your prices from. Boring out the block and putting in larger pistons will cost much more than $250. I don't know if you have some really special deals, but the bore alone will cost a hefty amount, and so will new pistons. Doing a rough full price estimate should help with the decision making a little more
  7. Very nicely said, and I do concur! Great Job mike for making my Z car bui8ld possible! I wish everyone a HAPPY NEW YEAR! Everyone do it safely! I know Ill be cleaning my house for a while tomorrow, ha ha
  8. I have always had a certain thought on this type of topic: You will always be able to buy new parts and put them on an older car, no matter what, new parts will always be available, and anybody can buy them and put them on the old car. But the original parts for a car will not always be available, and not everybody will be able buy them making their car original, it takes much more effort to keep a car original and I feel dserves more prestige. My car personally, it is a 1973 so nothing special to keep bone stock. I am keeping it in touch with Z heritage, while doing a few performance modifications to my liking. Because if I am putting this much time and effort into the car, I want the car to be exactly how I want it. So I'm putting in an l28 from a '78 Z and doing some tokico shocks and springs and poly bushings, other than, it is stock. It will still keep the beauty of a stock car, exterior and interior
  9. Great videos proxlamus, I love seeing Z vids, they're so inspiring to finish my car. Hey does anybody know which air dam that is? It looks fantastic
  10. I believe a vin in the 216 hundred thounsand should be a 260Z right? if that is indeed the correct vin
  11. Zsondabrain, I have the same exact thing going on with my car, I have found a few people with very similar dents. A little while back, I think it might have been Ed who gave me some advice. He said he took a 50 lb. dumbell and dropped it on it a few times and it knocked it right back into place! ALthough my dented is rusted, it doesn't have any holes yet, but it has some extreme surface rust goin on, so I might go with new floors, not sure yet. I had planned on pooring the undercarriage and then using a truck bed liner, although that is starting too look at little bit pricey, although that finish that Ed got is really spectacular, should hold up well too. I haven't ever dealt with truck bed liner, but is there any chance of it detaching from the paint on the undercarriage?
  12. I realize this is a bit nosey, and if you do not feel comfortable with a response statement on an internet board I completely understand. My curiosity has gotten the best of me, but could you tell us about your job? I know everyone else on here is wondering the same thing
  13. Because there is no hundred thousand mile figure on the odometer, one cannot be completly positive about a milage claim. It is possible for the car to have 150,000 miles rather than 50,000. Which would warrent plenty of bargaining room in the price. Easiest way to check for validity of the milage claim is to check for spots of common wear and tear. Also you can check stuff like wear on the clutch stop, and maybe even if the braided raidiator hoses are still there that can be a good verification of the low milage. This isn't fool proof though, because it is possible that the car has the low milage and those hoses were just replaced. But you should be able to tell first hand just by overall appearance and a thorough inspection. Even if it did have 150,000 it is probably still a good buy. Good luck with your inspection and possible purchase!
  14. I don't mean to sound like a jerk here, but is there some reason you are adverse to buying online? Even in you can get KYB's in Saskatchewan, I'm sure you can buy them cheaper on the internet because you'll have some many different vendors to choose from
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