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About AChev

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  1. L28 280Z engine from 1st generation 280Z (S30 chassis) with alternator and fan clutch attached. This engine was given to me years ago (~2006). I have not run it, it was stored in garage for entire time it was in my possession. $200 OBO - The engine will be sold AS-IS and is at minimum good for parts. I can help you load via our fork-lift or engine crane. Engine stand is not included. The engine is located in PA in the Lehigh Valley Please PM me if you are interested.
  2. Ok, so the time has come so I have to bite the bullet and sell the project for several reasons. I wrote a thread about this vehicle a few weeks ago, now I've returned from my vacations with even less time to sell the car. This vehicle/parts lot needs to be sold by the 24th of August, I'm running out of time. The long and the short of it is, the vehicle was a project I started a long while ago, got in to deep, and now am moving out of the house and my garage space allotment is no longer. I purchased the vehicle the 1973 240Z in 2003, it had a 4 spd manual. When purchased it ran and drove v
  3. Yea, I assume you all are correct. I don't really have too much of a choice, and if I had a chance to go back I would have still purchased the vehicle, excellent experience, plus it resulted in a great tool collection. As much as I would like to take a little time each week working on it, an internship is slightly more important to put the time into. I still get my automotive fix while at school through our Formula SAE team, which keeps me goin while I'm there. I'm located in Emmaus right outside Allentown. I guess I'll have to create a classified tomorrow. If anyone on this thread is in
  4. Ok so I purchased a 1973 that ran and was in fairly good condition, it needed some paint and minor rust repair and that was it. The car was fully complete and ran very well. I began stripping the car with the intention that if I wanted to paint the car I would like to have it done correctly. Then I eventually gained the mindset if I was stripping the car I might as well do everything there is to do. Then my summers began to consist of full time jobs, then I left for college. Now I am approaching the breaking point, my father tells me that I need to rid the garage of the project beca
  5. I am just curious where you got your prices from. Boring out the block and putting in larger pistons will cost much more than $250. I don't know if you have some really special deals, but the bore alone will cost a hefty amount, and so will new pistons. Doing a rough full price estimate should help with the decision making a little more
  6. Very nicely said, and I do concur! Great Job mike for making my Z car bui8ld possible! I wish everyone a HAPPY NEW YEAR! Everyone do it safely! I know Ill be cleaning my house for a while tomorrow, ha ha
  7. I have always had a certain thought on this type of topic: You will always be able to buy new parts and put them on an older car, no matter what, new parts will always be available, and anybody can buy them and put them on the old car. But the original parts for a car will not always be available, and not everybody will be able buy them making their car original, it takes much more effort to keep a car original and I feel dserves more prestige. My car personally, it is a 1973 so nothing special to keep bone stock. I am keeping it in touch with Z heritage, while doing a few performance modifi
  8. Great videos proxlamus, I love seeing Z vids, they're so inspiring to finish my car. Hey does anybody know which air dam that is? It looks fantastic
  9. I believe a vin in the 216 hundred thounsand should be a 260Z right? if that is indeed the correct vin
  10. Zsondabrain, I have the same exact thing going on with my car, I have found a few people with very similar dents. A little while back, I think it might have been Ed who gave me some advice. He said he took a 50 lb. dumbell and dropped it on it a few times and it knocked it right back into place! ALthough my dented is rusted, it doesn't have any holes yet, but it has some extreme surface rust goin on, so I might go with new floors, not sure yet. I had planned on pooring the undercarriage and then using a truck bed liner, although that is starting too look at little bit pricey, although
  11. I realize this is a bit nosey, and if you do not feel comfortable with a response statement on an internet board I completely understand. My curiosity has gotten the best of me, but could you tell us about your job? I know everyone else on here is wondering the same thing
  12. Because there is no hundred thousand mile figure on the odometer, one cannot be completly positive about a milage claim. It is possible for the car to have 150,000 miles rather than 50,000. Which would warrent plenty of bargaining room in the price. Easiest way to check for validity of the milage claim is to check for spots of common wear and tear. Also you can check stuff like wear on the clutch stop, and maybe even if the braided raidiator hoses are still there that can be a good verification of the low milage. This isn't fool proof though, because it is possible that the car has
  13. I don't mean to sound like a jerk here, but is there some reason you are adverse to buying online? Even in you can get KYB's in Saskatchewan, I'm sure you can buy them cheaper on the internet because you'll have some many different vendors to choose from
  14. I was just thinking that it would be neat to be able to see what progress others are making, what stages they have gone through on their build. You would know what experience others have in case you have specific questions. Also, I enjoy following others builds, I remember seeing Ed's car be built to the masterpiece it is before our eyes
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