munters

What i learned was many cars had this and when people manipulated the milage they used a drill and thy could just turn in 1 direction. This could then be detected because of the 100k number. This has been told in the mechanic scool in the early 80s.

If you push hard and the braking force is not enough you need more vacuum suport. Air in the system gives you the same force just later (the warmer the brakes the later the force because the air expannds). Bigger caliper piston=more force needed. Pumping brings pedal higher up but does not change the force.

Remove the spring and ball out of the hole with a magnet.

Facebook? What is that?

Thats a good one. You are impressive as always with your never vergetting anything and finding the proove as well

Then you need to shop for speaker and measure first. Thats what i did.

I went as well with the S12W not drilled not slotted. (btw i would not pass with a prop valve in Switzerland) Steel braded hoses i had to take off. (Again no way to pass inspection)

I went with the vented toyota and drums. (I didnt pass the swiss inspection with 4 discs)as you mentionned. I changed also to 15/16 MC and a 280z brake booster the rest i kept stock. Passed Inspection and bias is spot on all 4 wheels block at the same time.

Turn on the engine its not ideal but you hear it, if the pulley spins. Turn on all power consuming devices and if you dont hear a whistle noise its ok. I drive my car with the same thing on the alternator side and it works fine since 3years.

Sali Nils Since im trying to reproduce the Euro-chin spoiler (Lip) could you tell me how rigid it is? Is there a metall bar inside or just urethane? Thanks Marcel

Zed Head Thanks for the scale I used a similar one. Eurodat cool site I will study it. The product I most properly use is from the netherlands I think called Eurosil This is what he wrote about the new material Eurosil 50 – require NO RELEASE AGENT!, easy casting, high quality, no shrinkage, durable,

I got the first answer from the guy I buy the PU from and he suggests to use 1. Silicone Shore 28 for easiness but always a box needed to support the mold 2. Silicone shore 50 to 60. Still easier to use, but hard enough to use it without a box. 3. Polyurethane 50 to 60. a bit harder to use, not as precise texturing as Silicone but much cheaper. The lip itself he thinks 80 would be good.

Hello Captain Thanks for your inputs. Im braking my brain with what if then else questions... I guess I will learn as you said. Yes, soft mold (shore A30) means easy to take it out, but needs always a box to use it. Over Shore A50 no box is needed, but it will be harder to get it out. I tend to have it harder to get it out but easier to replicate. Below the Prototype are studs to the bottom wood and give marks where to open the mold yes I will poor it at once I don't want a mark somewhere. and where the studs are, (below every mounting bracket) I will putt pipes in the mold to get the air out and to be able to "overfill" (I will poor it the opposite side from the top to the bottom of the lip ) One will be used to pour it in. There I will use a 2cmx5cm pipe to fill it. when every pipe has material it should be fine. I don't know yet if the center or the side is better, but I think the side. Those are all the Ideas I have a t the moment and hope more knowledge will be shared. Here or with the guys I will buy the PU from. The next few Days will give more ideas.

Next Step is done Box with Prototype in it. fixed to the bottom of the box Now I have to decide what kind of Polyurethane I will use. Im still for a Shore A 75 (hard/soft like Car tires) I guess I will try it with that and if its not good, I can still do a second until I have the desired hardness. For the Form(mold) I thought to use as well the Shore A 75 but Im asking myself if harder like shore A 90 could be better for the mold to reuse it more often I know, the A75 should be good against UV light(sun) for about 10 years. then I can use the mold again.

I took nr6 in green for everything. Not as green like nr 4 but more then your white.

Here the Justdashes pictures look at your dash. OEM the small gauge area is more pronounced at the back and less high/round in the front

Just dashes is to far off arround the Gauges and they dont accept any imputs to improove the Product. Therefore way to expensive/no option.

Did you look at the restomod air? Looks a bit more compact and bt remote wirh your cellphone.

Did someone ever try to find new Bronce Bushings? (48127-78500) I need them, but there is nothing avail. something like this or with a google search https://www.google.ch/search?q=SWPB+bimetal+bushings&dcr=0&tbm=isch&imgil=kaop3PnikSXRsM%3A%3B36UlV0baVmHrSM%3Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fwww.alibaba.com%252Fproduct-detail%252FBi-Metal-Bush-with-flange-SAE1010_60365193932.html&source=iu&pf=m&fir=kaop3PnikSXRsM%3A%2C36UlV0baVmHrSM%2C_&usg=__fnAzUoPEM731mqNNI_-EOLgaTmY%3D&biw=1568&bih=802&ved=0ahUKEwi6wvyMg7PWAhWCIVAKHcb7BZwQyjcIMw&ei=nfvBWfr_OoLDwALG95fgCQ#imgrc=kaop3PnikSXRsM: Thanks for your thoughts Marcel

New fit is good.

I was not clear in the last post This is the Prototype to use for the mold not Urethane yet. Im now building a box and then the endversion in Urethane with suporting brackets inside.(to adjust the angle the way i want it and give rigidity)

The hella h4 where used in europe since mid 70 for the z. sort of factory replacemrnt, because we always had h4. silent beam where never alowed because of the bad light.

Nice story but in my opinion "bad" pictures. A lot of them, but you see nothing else then fractions of everything. The lambo air filter for example. I would have liked to see what he writes about.

Use the msd tacho module 8920 it works with 123, crane, msd and innovative lm2

Yes, sorry for being off topic...