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Show us how to get a stuck drum off, I've beat the fins off my left rear without any luck. I'm hoping that if I wear down the shoes it'll come off.

So you're saying the wider spray out of the FJ707Ts is good? I hope so! That's what I bought because of price only, no research.

Question for you guys. Hopefully the baffle in the tank is only welded on the very bottom section? It steps down a couple of times before the actual lowest section so fuel can get around the sides, I'm hoping! Thanks, Cliff

I've got a step by step of my on that works pretty good, about four 5 gal. buckets and write down my next steps on a pad so as not to panick. And the 240 tanks are a hole lot easier (smaller) to slosh around. $30 for the Red-Kote liner, $20 for the muratic acid and acetone, gallon of each.

Amazon.com: Standard Motor Products AV7 Check Valve: Automotive

Farmers will spend more to get out of paying than what the actual claim is, they're terrible.

Too late but it's easy to DIY. http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf That's for a 240 but it's was pretty much the same when I did my '77.

Learned something new for today already! Haven't been awake 15 minutes. Never new about the Cheetah.

...like many beloved racers my luck has hit the wall. Fuel gauge wasn't working on this car I bought a few weeks ago so I pulled the sending unit. "Here's your sign" moment, Followed by these findings, Lemons to lemonade I shaved off 3/4s lb., Oh well, I bought it for me to have something to do. It has scored an A+ with this.

I tried taking mine off and it leaves red and green wires exposed as well as the bracket and two threaded holes, not to happy with it like that and I may take the ZX dizzy out to put in my other 240. It does way better than the points type they have, not so much on the 280. If it's not raining this Saturday I'll go to the JY and get you one. I need to find a injector fan switch for Andrew aka Zcurves too. I'm wearing long pants and shirt soaked in Deet. I'll send you a PM for your address if I'm holding one. That 3rd wire is probably for the temp sender on the earlier ones.

Kind of brings truth to the old saying about the police radios, "you can't outrun a Motorola".

Google searching will get he works at DSL Mortgage, DSL Mortgage Grapeview WA, 98546 ? Manta.com Dave Lawrence <rallyedave@earthlink.net> Port Orchard, WA USA

Maybe if you plug the BCDD back up it'll keep your RPMs steady when coasting. If I remember right, on mine, the bottom nut turns out counter clockwise for more RPMs. Take it out 1/2 turn at a time and test drive it. If it's worse then I'm backwards, go clockwise. Good luck.

Your intake may have been so clogged up it wasn't sucking in any air, vacuum leak style. Mine was and for what short time I drove around with that big old hole it didn't run too well. It had a bad exhaust leak back there too that disguised the rotten intake to my unknowing ears and eyes.

My intake manifold was exactly like yours, EGR tube had burnt at the connection and rotted out the bottom side of the tunnel. I tried to get it welded up but my welder friend said it wouldn't work, too much rot I guess. I found a non-EGR manifold for $50, it was stamped N47 but was some kind of hermaphrodite of an N42. It has the castings of a N47 but no openings from the EGR channel to the intake runners or those big arse allen plugs. I know time isn't on your side but finding a N42 intake would be your best bet, you're going to have to delete that stuff anyhow, thanks to Mr Sawzall for me too, I love those things. 1st pic is the rotten one, stinks too 2nd is the in between N42 & N47 3rd is flowing the mouth out 4th is the difference between the head size and the intake, opened them up too Nissan had a recall for that tube fitting that comes loose too, I guess our POs didn't get that notice or didn't think it was important.

The borrowed wheels will stay on so they're not really borrowed just repurposed. Didn't run, now runs great, didn't shine either.

Oh no, please say you didn't do all that work without getting a $150 clutch kit.

I think it's called a dash pot, the round thing with the whitish plastic that serves as a shock absorber for your throttle linkage. They're adjustable, https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+dashpot&source=lnms&sa=X&ei=kzKXU6GRIubLsATjt4HIAw&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAA&biw=1280&bih=620&dpr=1.25

When I put a ZX distributor in my '77 it did away with that junction with the snap down top, so no a newer ZX won't have it. I have access to a few 280s at a junkyard but I'd rather go to the dentists as a junkyard in the summertime but I've had some good Z luck lately and don't want to mess that up, so maybe I'll give you mine and replace it with one from the JY when I go back. I'll let you know in the morning. It's the same as Blue's in your second picture.

You're talking about the red and green wire connector, right? I'd loosen the 2 screws enough to slide a black zip-tie under it until you can find one at a junkyard.

That gauge at Lowes is one Fastwoman found a while back for another fellow having the same problem. I didn't know they had that one, the one I found was for an air compressor, so when I was at my Lowes I saw it in the pool supply section. It has a 1/4" nipple that will thread right down into your existing 5/16" fuel line, tighten the clamp, they call it "dead headed" when it stops the circulation of fuel. Remove the coil wire then turn it over a few times and the gauge should hold the reading for a good while if everything's OK.

240z Datsun 1971

Or you could put a gauge on the hose going into the bottom of the fuel filter, straight from the pump. My Bosch hits 50 psi and doesn't fade when I put a gauge on the fuel supply hose straight from the pump, before the fuel filter. Shop Aqua EZ Pressure Gauge at Lowes.com

Not so stupid! I recently bought a '72 that wasn't running for cheap. Set the valves still no go, bought 3-in-one oil blue bottle for $3. the plungers wouldn't even get wet with oil they were so low. It started then. That $3 saved me thousands off the asking price.

SUCCESS GENTLEMAN!!!! I tried 4 times getting the tang at 11:30 by rotating the oil pump, no dice, it's straight up and down. But looking at my Tom Monroe book the top of the tang lined up perfect with the backside of the top bolt hole, maybe an odd front cover or something. I did see that my timing chain tensioner was sticking out too far through the oil pump hole, so maybe the loose chain has something to do with it? Who knows? I do know I've got a lot of work to do on that little baby. But boy oh boy does it rev up like a blender. I'm dying to drive it but it is storming out now so I'll get a chance to tidy up all the wires and then my garage. Thank you all for your help! I'll drink some beers for everybody. Oh yeah, dropping the oil pump is a bitch. Had to drop the stabilizer bar from the frame, then unbolt the drivers side behind the tire. It wasn't too bad I guess, just not as easy as I thought. Looking back at my 1st post's pictures I guess I did get it a little better, maybe a tooth?