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I used ARP turbo bolts when I rebuilt my '77. After 500 miles I re torqued them as their directions recommend. From the ARP wb site, " Because the head gasket will compress upon initial torquing, make sure studs (or bolts) are re-torqued after the engine has been run." The Official ARP Web Site | Manufacturing

Meguairs Clay Bar kit from Walmart and a pack of micro-fiber towels. Then O'reilly's for the Meguairs #7 Show Car Glaze. I'm going to do my Camry this weekend if the weathers nice. The clay barring didn't do too much on this car, I've washed it about 10 times. The direction say it's for contaminates on the surface of the paint. The clay was white and barely had an orange tint to it after I did the hole hood. I'm sure it'll do better on the Camry as it sits outside.

The #305 280 is like I had in high school. Bought it 3 years ago for $1,400, no rust at all. Messed with it for 2 months with the help of Fastwoman and Ztrain and of course Blue's Tech Tips, got it running good and realized I wanted to keep it. 9 months later it was all new except paint and carpet, it's my Buick. The #918 240 is the 2nd 240 I bought, the 1st one is red with white interior. If I could walk into a Nissan dealership and order a brand new 240 it would be exactly like the 918 I found on craigslist.com. Got it for a song too. Now I have ebony and ivory 240s. I will sale the red one sometime soon because I need the garage space, 3 slots and 5 cars but of course the Zs get the 3 slots. Anyway the 305 blue 280 will stay as my Buick like car (GT) and the 918 will always be my sports car. I had always been a motorcycle person but got sick of waking up in the ER. This forum with all the information and positive personalities has changed me forever from bikes to Zs. My Mother loves y'all for getting me off the bikes.

Anybody put 414a in an R12 system? I know some folks have put 414b Hot Shot in theirs but I can't find it around my area, not sure if it's still available. I can get 414a and my HVAC friend says it's a direct drop in for R12 commercial use, freezers and coolers, but he doesn't know about older auto systems. Thanks for any help, Cliff EDIT: Maybe I've got that backwards, sorry. I'll read more on it.

I dropped mine and cleaned it then coated with Red Kote, replaced all the hoses to the evap tank too. It was a jobbie job! Here's the thread, half is the tank work the other half is about our shoes, we have fun on here. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/funnybone/52471-developing-story.html

And sure enough it did, after a lot of washing and waxing. Meguairs #7 Show Car Glaze is great stuff. When I got it home, After beers and #7 yesterday,

This one works great with the ZX dizzy, http://www.amazon.com/Crane-Cams-730-0020-PS20-Performance/dp/B000CIO1F0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1406738019&sr=8-1&keywords=crane+ps20

Nice car.

My '77 has 3/8" there. It doesn't have to be high pressure until AFTER the fuel pump. I have O'reilly's here and they have the best selection of fuel hose around, they stock 5/8" and 1/2" where nobody else does. When you replace that hose put in a clear filter too, Fram G3 for $3. Z Car Tech Tips Fram G3 Filter Installation

Mine ideled great in the garage but when I got away from home, too close to call a wrecker, It would quit. I could change out the filter up front and blow back through the supply line and it would get me home. It is a '72 tank that was crusted with crap. I took the sending unit out 1st, get your tank below half full, and it was rusted pretty bad. So I put a camera in the hole and barely could see rust in the picture. Dropped the tank and couldn't beleive what was there. You could stick a magnetic parts picker upper in there and probably get some thing but most of the 12 ounces in mine wouldn't stick to the magnet, CRUD.

If you don't know about the brakes on your new classic Z and it has a wobble in the steering wheel around 30 mph then you should try this. I replaced the inner and outer front wheel bearings, had the rotors turned and new grease packed in the hub. $50 to go from driving what felt liked a cooked spaghetti noodle to an uncooked noodle, stiffer without the shakes. Here's the info; http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/frontwheelbearings/index.html http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/suspension-steering-s30/52750-wheel-bearing-race-removal.html

Thank you all, very helpful information as always.

I guess I've never done this the right way but I want to now. I'm replacing the inner and outer bearings and the races need to come out. Is it as simple as it looks, blunt punch on the indented area's? Putting the new ones on do I tighten the castle nut down until they seat then back off until it spins freely? Thank you for sharing any experiences, Cliff.

Magical beer!

I did some measuring on the other 2 cars I have and it's the control arms. I put the 14" steelies and hubcaps on until next weekend when I can do the control arm bushings, if my old bones feel better after a week. There's a lot of getting up and down to fetch tools when you're under a car, I need a Capuchin monkey.

I put the 16x7 Rewinds off my 280 on a lowered 240, no rubbing after a month of driving. Now I'm putting new poly bushings on and after doing the front sway bar ends and the t/c rods the front tires are rubbing bad at the front of the fender well. Any ideas from someone? Thanks for any advice, Cliff

Whew! I thought it was just mine.

I think the article that said buy them now when you can find one, don't restore, and sale them as a restoration potential was right. If you've spent 2 years and 20 grand you're not going to see the up, and up.

"Up, up, up..."

Reference pictures, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/fuelpump/index.html

Maybe some loose nuts around the carbs? I'm sitting here making Slurpee noises and to me it sounds like sucking in air?

I straight wired mine with speaker wire and some alligator clips to the battery and the pump's terminals. Try that and pull the bottom hose off the fuel filter, put it in a jug and see how it pumps. Should be a strong steady stream so be careful. Our cars have a return line going back to the tank so it circulates all the time.

Have you tried tightening the clamps? That's usually where they leak from. If the hose is split then here's a good read, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/fuel-injection-s30/33005-1976-280z-feul-injectors-installation.html

In my area, Honda, Mercedes and Hyundai. Airbus down in Mobile. Farmers do better building cars than growing corn but if they legalize weed we would be like the Beverly Hillbillies.

That could be the ignition module on the side of the distributor, small black plastic box. Early ZXs have the E12-80 with only one plug, the later ones have E12-92 with 2 plugs. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=e12-92+280zx. They have circuit boards inside so I'm sure they can fail at some point.