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metalmonkey47

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About metalmonkey47

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    Atlanta, GA

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  1. Thanks for sharing, I'll be sure to pass that along!
  2. Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has a source for new fuel pump spacers. Seems like Nissan, Fel-Pro, and Beck-Arnley are all out-of-stock and discontinued. Quick google didn't find anything. Trying to source this out for a co-worker. Hoping to light a fire under his arse to get his 260Z back on the road soon. Thanks!
  3. Awesome so what I gather is that Z31 rotors are a bolt in replacement for the stock rotors, however vented requires the S12-8 Calipers from the later (91) trucks. I guess I need to decide if the damn vented rotors and calipers are going to fit with my new wheels. (SSR MK3.) 14x7
  4. Thanks for that John, not sure how I missed that.
  5. Hey guys, I've searched this out and I don't seem to be finding a very clear answer. I've been working on maintaining my car and I've decided my next focus should be brakes before playing with much else. I need rotors, and have been reading a little into the S12-8 calipers with vented rotors. I guess my real question right off of the bat, is if later year vented disks will fit on 240Z hubs? Or if I'd be better off buying ZX struts for the front? Just to clarify, my brakes are working okay at the moment, as everything has been replaced (short of the hoses, but I'll be doing that soon.) This summer/spring once I get my L28 together and swapped, I'm hoping to do some mountain runs on what we call the tail of the dragon, which is some intense down hill curves. My concern is with heat in the brakes with non-vented rotors. For reliabilities sake, I'd obviously like to get rid of as much heat as possible, so vented rotors with bigger calipers are really what I want. I suppose I'm trying to find the best way to go about doing this. I AM buying 'Yota calipers soon (I can get them for next to nothing from work) but It's really down to which rotors I'm buying at the same time. http://driven-daily.com/s30-toyota-brake-upgrades/
  6. Can anyone chime in on what shifter will work on these, and clear the console? I've seen quite a few, from the truck shifters with the bend to clear the seat, and the S130 shifters with almost no bend, and much shorter.
  7. With the plastic ball on the end and has the pin that retains it to the shifter?? Dude I can get you one LOCAL like tomorrow. Shoot me a PM and I can tell you where to find one or I'll go pick it up for you.
  8. Hey guys, so i don't have a lot of time to reply to all the questions so I'm gonna try and cover it all here in one big post. Regarding the L24 w/ L28 head, I've had no clearance issues in fact i never even thought to check. I had an MN47 head on it for a while, but the valves were leaking like a siv so I cleaned up an L28 N47 and slapped it on there. That's what's leaking now. FYI, this is fresh coolant and distilled water in the radiator. There is no spray, it's leaking from the head for sure. I was going to re-torque today but ended up going to a local yard to check out a couple Z's with a buddy and look for salvageable parts. Found goodies! I'll post those later........ Anyways, I haven't been seeing any coolant/oil mix yet. I'm going to do a leakdown test tomorrow and retorque if it gets warm enough. It's 17 degrees out now. Another thing to note: I have coolant on the floor and I'm a little pissed at my 240 even though i shouldn't be. Driving back from the grocery store, I turned right merging into traffic and put my foot down. Prior to this, I had no reason to suspect the compression rings were also leaking although now I fear they are. During the 1-2 shift I heard what sounded like it might have been a little pop and started smelling antifreeze instantly. Windows started to fog, etc etc bad news etc.... Pretty sure I popped the heater core, and my only guess is that it's the result of compression leaking into the water jacket and over pressurizing the cooling system. I parked the car and gave up for the night but it looks like tomorrow I'm going to be troubleshooting that too... I'm in for a busy day. Hoping it's just a loose hose that's spraying. They're all brand new so I doubt it...
  9. Seems like I'm posting issues more then usual. I think my car's on a breaking streak after begin driven more in the last few months then she has in years. I swapped in my rebuilt N47 head onto my L24 to help my compression issues and after driving it about 3 months I've noticed after my last oil change a few weeks back that the center of the head is starting to seep antifreeze. The head was checked and seemed perfectly straight. The block as well, however the motor could have been overheated several time before, and had a blown head gasket when I got it early 2014 (which is why the E31 head isn't on it) so there is no telling. I had no seeping issues on the worn out MN47, however I guess at this point it may have just been coincidence. I have ARP studs in this motor. Is it worth a re-torque to help solve this issue for a short time? I'm getting ready to throw an L28 together and build a racey head for it, but since this is currently my DD I can't afford any extended down time. And it's cold as $^!# this week (13 degrees) so working on it for long periods is out of the question. Note: I've yet to do a compression/leakdown test however I have both so I may take the time out of my day tomorrow and do it.
  10. Found U joints, got a press from work, got ready to replace the u joints, and realized the fackin bolts on the drivers side half shaft vibrated loose. FAIL! -Tightened them up, thud was gone! -Next day, thud came back. -Driveshaft came loose. (Been having that issue, I ordered new bolts. PO just stuck random hardware in there.) -Still have a little thud with the driveshaft tight now. This car is a pain in my arse I'm just gonna throw a new joint on every shaft this spring since they don't seem loose now. Everything is tight, probably just had the driveshaft vibrate loose again. When the new bolts come in, we'll see what it does.
  11. Felpro or Nissan on the gaskets. If buying seals separate, Timkin is thew only way to go.
  12. Thanks again Blue! Think I'm gonna go look for some donor shafts that I can rebuild off the car.
  13. It sure did S30driver! In time, I may search out a paid. I'm not looking to invest any money in those details at the moment, until the car is 100% mechanically restored. I'm not sure, the car is a repaint however it's very close to the original. I still have the paint code sticker under the hood, I'll take a look tomorrow. Blue, the bike you speak of. Wish I could find all my seriously cool pictures from years back.
  14. Some pictures from my build thread. ^I ripped all of THAT out from the hatch of the car. I have no freaking clue what these guys thought they were going to accomplish with that..... Here's what the headlight contacts looked like.
  15. haha Thanks for rubbing dirt in the wound Steve :: I've already opened the hazard and turn signal switches. In fact, I've cleaned/polished the contacts on all of the switches, simply because nothing in the combo switch worked when I got the car. I have an electronic flasher on the way, I hooked a spare up using a 552 flasher instead of the 175 (round instead of rectangular) and it didn't seem to get hot, although I did not run it as long. It still flashed inconsistently. Steve, I'd make plans to come over there but I think first I need to find a donor dash harness and new fuse box, trust me... it's a rats nest from the stupid PO's 'mechanic' or as I like to refer to him, sirfuxupalot.
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