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Found 8 results

  1. I thought I would post this up here instead of burying it in my build thread. Does any one have ideas on how to bench test a brake booster? I have an assortment of 5 or so small boosters. I would like to bench test them to see if any of them are good. Then restore the best candidate Thoughts?
  2. Does anybody know the correct tread pitch and size for brake booster vacuum fitting on cannon intake? It's gotta be something weird because I've tried all sizes and threads.
  3. Hey everyone I've been having some trouble figuring out exactly where some of my vacuum lines go. I finished rebuilding the engine for my 81zx 2+2 a couple months ago and haven't been able to figure out how the vacuum lines are supposed to hook up. I had them all marked during the rebuild but they got removed at some point during assembly. I've looked through the forum, online, and all 3 of my manuals (hilton, haynes, and clymer) and can not for the life of me understand where they're supposed to go. My uncle, who helped on my build, couldn't figure it out either and he had been a mechanic for some time. I had my regular mechanic take a look at it and he wasn't sure either. If any of you would be able to help out I'd appreciate it. If you have pictures or miraculously know where one of the lines go or anything else useful please share. Thanks -Noah M
  4. I have a 1976 280Z non calif, with a 5spd (one of the previous owners must have installed the trans as 1976 did not come with 5spd). I noticed the wires on my vacuum switching valve were completely toast and I cant find a replacement part anywhere. To my knowledge the vacuum switching valve adjusts timing for 4th gear. Yet since I have a 5spd, is this switch even necessary? Does the trans have a top gear switch that tells the vacuum switch to engage past 4th? I took it apart and can attempt to clean and resolder the connection if its still needed. The car has only idled in the driveway since I bought it in the fall so I have no idea how it behaves while running through the gears. Thanks
  5. I apologize if this is misposted. I thought about putting it in "interior" but that didn't seem quite right... Has anyone replaced the stock underhood vacuum pump and vacuum bottle associated with the heater/airconditioner box with something else? I would like to delete the stock units and install something hopefully a little more compact somewhere else. Recommendations would be welcome. Thanks.
  6. Okay, I just boughat my first Z earlier today. My father owned the same 79 280zx model back when I was a kid and Damn it was awesome. I want to rebuild what he had and restore this one to its full potential but I just can't catch a glimpse of that happening. I've been battling with it since I got it home (I drove it 40 some miles with no more than some minor bumping in the front left tin rod and high revs in neutral and between shifts). I go to inspect my prize and I see chaos. The tube behind the mass air flow module (or what I believe to be) had been wrapped several times with electrical tape. Turns out it had a massive tear. Then I got it going again to test the high revs and it started going up and down between 2 and 3k rpms like it was galloping. Soon after it stalled. I was told it had a leaky exhaust manifold seal but this was not something I know to become of that. I started it back up and it launched the alternator belt clean off. I put it back on after turning the car off and it hasn't stayet running since. I tried puting it on both pulleys coming from the block but neither seems to make a difference. It'll run for five or six minutes and die a slow startling jumpy death. What all am I dealing with here!?!? Have I just thrown 2 grand away??
  7. I'm a new owner of a '71 240Z; I've posted on here a couple of times. While the car was in the process of restoration by the previous owner there were periods of long sitting and I am getting everything up to snuff. To help others help me here's what I've done so far: - Rebuilt transmission with new gaskets, bearings, synchronizer rings, and oil seals. Temporarily refilled with synthetic 75W-90 GL-5 (ouch; I know now), now has Red Line MT90. - Replaced clutch friction disc, pressure plate, throwout bearing, and slave cylinder - Replaced distributor cap, rotor, O-ring, breaker points, condenser, and ignition coil with OEM-spec Beck Arnley parts - Replaced plugs and wires with NGK BPR6ES and NGK wires, gapped per FSM specs - Dropped fuel tank and had it boiled at a local radiator shop; replaced fuel filter and am currently running a can of cleaner additive through with premium-grade fuel - Disassembled, cleaned, and rebuilt carburetors with the aid of the ZTherapy rebuild kit and video - Checked dwell, measured at 37 degrees, timed at 5 degrees (second notch from bottom on crank pulley when viewed from passenger side) with electronic multi-function light I'm now driving the car daily to and from work, ~40 miles round-trip. I do my best to keep the engine in the 3000 to 3500 RPM range while driving. The car starts well with the now-functional choke, but the choke/fuel nozzle assembly sticks and I'm planning to re-adjust and calibrate this weekend. I know that I've got an exhaust leak under the hood where the twin pipes meet the manifold; it's missing the flange gasket which I've ordered and will also be installing. The rear hatch also doesn't seal quite right and the original bad gas made quite the odor in the car, so I usually drive with my window down. Although the blower motor/switch don't work the control levers are functional and I can get forced air venting through the ducts into the cabin. This week as I've been driving I've noticed faint white smoke rising from the hood vents (the car has a 280 hood on it.) This morning while making a left turn I also noticed the smoke entering the cabin through the blower vents. I have not noticed smoke from the tail pipe while driving, neither while under load or idling at lights. When I got to work I popped the hood and took a look. I know that I have coolant seepage around the thermostat housing; I'm replacing the thermostat, both its gaskets, and both radiator hoses. I also saw that the frame was wet where the radiator filler neck hose rests near the front driver's side of the engine bay. Finally, there was faint smoke/steam coming from the valve cover breather and where its hose connects to the air cleaner box. Removing the hose cause condensation and puddling of what appears to be oil. I do get some hesitation/lag when starting from standing in first gear. Once it gets past that point the car will accelerate fine up to highway speeds through the other gears. Deceleration, whether in neutral or gear, often includes one or several backfires or pops, I believe from the tail pipe. If you've made it through all of that you now know what I do. I've been doing a lot of reading and searching through the forums, but I still have a few questions: - First and foremost, what should I be looking at for the above circumstances? - What is the "best/proper" way of setting float adjustment? I do believe that I am running too rich. The video shows the float horizontal at .55 in. while I've read on here about holding the lid vertical and tilting while blowing in the fuel inlet to measure. I sent Bruce an e-mail; maybe they've been busy but I haven't heard back. - What are common locations for vacuum leaks? The car has a later N33 intake manifold on it with the corresponding emissions-control balance tube. However, no air pump is installed and there aren't any devices installed on the balance tube. Perhaps related, the vacuum tap on the front carburetor is not there. The hole is not plugged, but the residual broken tap appears to be in place in the carb. Instead, a line runs from the manifold vacuum tap to a three-way join, then a line runs to the distributor advance. Does it make a difference which location vacuum is tapped from? Are there any good images showing definitively what needs to be plugged on the balance tube? - The engine no longer has the coolant line running around the back (firewall end) from the manifold on the driver side to the three-way joint on the passenger side. Instead, the line runs through the manifold and is then capped, with a corresponding cap at the 3-way joint. I am planning to remove the residual line and plug at the thermostat housing instead to eliminate the dead zone; are there any problems with not running coolant through the manifold? The carburetor spacers don't have cut-outs for water flow. As always, all help is much appreciated.
  8. Hey so ive got a 73 240 with the 72 SU's with the emissions removed vac lines on carbs capped. only engine mods besides carbs is 79 electronic distributor, and electronic fuel pump. Well when I start the car it idles around 800 but after about ten minutes of driving the idle works itself to 1500 and doesn't come down from that. A friend told me it was was probably a vacuum leak because sometimes wen i turn the car off the engine runs for a second, and my heater vents blow cold air and defrost blows warm, and you can kinda hear a hiss from the engine when i turn it off that i cant find anywhere.... so I unplugged and capped the distributor advance and the brake booster but neither helps. I also sprayed starting fluid all over suspicious spots like intake and hoses. and only around the the throttle shaft where it meets between the two carbs did it seem to make any idle fluctuation. maybe this could be the problem? warn out? any help would be greatly appreciated:)
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