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My last hole at #6 was so wallerd out I had to go bigger and the 1st hole at #1 under the thermostat housing had a heli-coil in it that I drilled out and went bigger. Do you have the N47 intake manifold? If you do, does it have any rot around the EGR tunnel where the tube from the exhaust manifold connects? My '77 did and another guy, Rossi, had the same problem with his. Here's a picture of mine after I sawz-alled the EGR mount hoping I could have it welded up. No way said my welder so I lucked up and found an early edition N47 without the EGR openings. Oh yeah, I'm pretty sure the OE size studs for our cars is what's on 4cyl. Altimas, at least that's what I remember the parts guy saying when he was trying to find the larger ones.

I put 4 of these on my N42, 2 on the ends and 2 in the middle. Came from my Nissan dealer, I think they're for a Titan pick up.

I got this a couple of years ago and am ready to get the cam kit for it. I've read go wild not mild to prevent detonation problems, but cam specs are all over the place so advise me please. Can't decide whether to put it on top of an L28 with flat pistons or the L24. It's got the big intake valves and steel seats, also teal colored valve seals. All new a few years ago, never been bolted down. maybe I should use the N47 I have.

February 1972. I'm about drunk with happiness (beer) from that result! I've decided to go ahead and take it apart and make it as new as I can, steering wobble at 80mph, radiator dripping coolant etc., she's an older girl that needs a vaginoplasty. Don't google images of that word. Thanks Zkars & Chas.

I was reading trying to find a good clutch to order and stumbled across a thread about adjusting the slave cylinder. "What can you adjust on a slave cylinder" I said to myself, buy a new one and be done. But boy oh boy was I wrong. Thanks to Arne and someone that goes by Dogma I turned that rod out 2 threads and left black marks in front of my house. YeeHaw! I love this forum.

You've asked a lot with a few words. Here's more reading for you, Z Tech Tips EFI & Fuel (AtlanticZ.ca) || |Â |Â Â |Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â |

I say to stay with the original color because of the engine bay is the same. But at least something close. I like the darker greens for the candy effect. 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery

Is your's mounted in front of the valve cover, compressor on passenger's side firewall by the fuel pump? usually a York brand. Here's a "kinda" picture. It's the very top pulley. I'm at work now so I can't get one of my other '72's which is mounted on the drivers side of the motor. I'll put you up those later today if someone hasn't already. here's something with Napa part numbers, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/20142-c-idler-pulley-rebuild.html and google.com, https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+a/c+pulley&rlz=1C1SNNT_enUS361US361&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=rAG8U7K2O-a48gHf4YEI&ved=0CAgQ_AUoAw&biw=1093&bih=508#imgdii=_ Here's those pictures but I forgot that I'd taken the belt and pulley of the other car so I've taken one of a 280's pulley. I boxed all my Z parts up this past weekend and put them in storage but I'm pretty sure the 280's close enough to the 240's set up. The last one is my 280 with no belt, silver. First 3 are the York set up, the pulley is under the top radiator hose where it connects to the thermostat housing. Well the pictures shifted, the drivers side compressor on the 280 has no belt, the rest are the one on the passenger's side fire wall. One last thing, the top mounted pulley is adjusted by 1 big nut looking thing. The lower mounted pulley is adjusted with a threaded rod going through the mount.

Nissan part #90909-E4100 for black. My guy charges me $.88 a piece, packs of 10, just bought 30 and they're still available from the dealer.

That stays full of gas while you're driving around. It keeps a steady flow to the fuel pump even when you're going through a turn. The supply line is coming from it. I'd call it a baffle.

I put a remanufactured ZX distributor and a Crane PS 20 coil on my '72 240. It made a world of difference. Arne suggested the PS 20 and I'm glad he did, it's the 1.4 OHM and that's perfect for the electronic ignition module E12-80 on the ZX dizzy which is what the HEI is. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/parts-swapping-s30/52372-best-coil-e12-80-dizzy.html Amazon.com: Crane Cams 730-0020 PS20 Performance Coil: Automotive If you go with the ZX style ignition the proper plugs are BPR6ES-11, wider gap for stronger spark.

Me too. I'm gonna try and shop vac the heater core dry. I'll put my new heater valve on the shelf with all the other parts I'm hording.

There's 2 drains on the sides of the wipers cowl, the vented piece that covers the wiper motor below the windshield. They drain out behind the front tire's inner fender. I'm not sure that's what you're talking about though but you should clean them out too. I think there's 4 screws where the hood meets that piece then you pull it towards the front of the car and viola! it's out. I blew mine out with an air compressor. Here's some pictures, https://www.google.com/search?q=280z+cowl+drains&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&espv=2&tbm=isch&tbo=u&source=univ&sa=X&ei=gTW5U8cL17PIBP_jgfgK&ved=0CBwQsAQ&biw=1280&bih=620#imgdii=_

Looks like the one that busted is #10, Datsun 240Z Car Heater (To Jul.-'73) The replacement # is B7118 instead of 27118, according to online nissan parts stores Those worm gear clamps aren't original, somebody's been down that road already.

If your fuel filter up front had rusty gas in it I'd imagine the cone shaped one in the fuel pump inlet port is in need of cleaning. Could the coil be failing? You should look and see if there's an oily look anywhere around it, test it somehow, I don't know the procedure though, sorry. If you have had the same plugs for 10 years you should be nice to your baby and get new ones. I'd get a new rotor button and cap too, small $$ for such a nice car.

I e-mailed the guy about the over spray, "Reflection. No overspray." So the rubber weatherstripping around the window frame is reflective.

Alaska joined in January of '59 becoming #49, then Howareya in August, the 50th state. Thanks for the flag facts, I've never seen a burial flag unfurled like that.

That's a 100 lb flower vase I created by accident. Lesson learned- leave the end expansion plug alone. Hands and toes is all we ever see of each other, mysterious group of people. That's a great idea! I'm going to put it in today.

Am I going nuts or didn't you just ask this in another post? http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/52590-1970-1973-mechanical-clock-other-gauges-240z-not-working-how-test.html Would you share some of that Panamanian weed?

I just so happen to have a junk L28 block. :stupid:

On the E brake light, make sure the wire is connected on the brake hard line manifold under the reservoirs on the drivers side, push on female bullet connector. On my 280 there's another one under the passenger's seat, not sure about the 240s.

That's off a fuel injection intake, the AAR plumbing. I will get something more suitable for the heat and pressure of the cooling system but it's a temporary fix until this winter when I re-do the heater valve and hoses and reconnect things back to spec.

Where would I get coolant for the carbs before the thermostat opens?

That Amphitheater size television?

I can't plug the hardline running behind the head then into the manifold, then going into the thermostat housing can I? I thought the manifold had to have the heat? It circulates from the bottom radiator inlet on the front cover around the back of the head then through the manifold back to the themostat housing up top then I suppose through the radiator but it is under the thermostat so I guess it does bypass the radiator until the thermostat opens. I'm confused. If I plug all that up I won't have any heat circulating through the intake manifold for the carburetors.