siteunseen

The orange car I recently bought was reading too hot for my comfort zone too. I read a older thread that Carl Beck commented on about putting a newer 280 radiator in 240s, said he started using them when they first came out in the late 70s. I bought one and already had a shroud and fan from a '79 ZX, couldn't get the ZX fan figured out though, the hub is recessed unlike the 240s which is all the way up front. Anyway, Blah blah blah and it cools great. Maybe get one and keep the original for later, that's what I did. Pictures soon. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/parts-swapping-s30/52672-easy-fit-new-radiator.html amazon.com has one, Amazon.com: Ready-Rad 0433634 New Radiator: Automotive

The Blue Angels are out of Pensacola, Florida. So they're Navy. Nothing's cooler than being on the beaches of the Panhandle when they're flying, they're girl watching.

I have a 9/'76 N47 cylinder head with a "B" internal oil cam with spray bar. I would like to know, before I call, if my thinking is correct. I want the Stage III grind on my cam using my rockers and lash pads as well as the cam towers to be installed on an E31 head. Is this the way to do it or am I wrong? Will I send them my rockers or should I get their's? lash pads? Thanks to anybody that can steer me the right way, Cliff

I can't keep peanut butter, girlfriends and their dogs. Dielectric grease holds things together for me.

I put a 3 row 280 radiator in a 240 without any problems. The automatic transmission cooler on the bottom was the only difference between the two, it hangs 2" lower on the bottom. I got it from Advance for $142 after a $50 coupon code worked. I took a chisel and knocked off the pre welded nuts and used the 12mm bolts and nuts that were on the 240. Put a ZX shroud on and two new Gates hoses. After driving it for 30 minutes the front of the head and thermostat housing read 165 degrees and the rear of the head read 138, the block was 122 degrees. Very happy with it. ToughOne or Ready-Rad Radiator 433634: Buy a car radiator from the experts at Advance Auto Parts

Here's a spread sheet on the distributors with some good information Mr Moore made out, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/attachments/electrical-s30/29404d1240455807-280zx-distributor-advance-curve-reference-distributor-advance-curves.xls

You have a great car I know you will enjoy for a long time and those extras for piece of mind are nice too.

Can't get much better advice than these guys, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/parts-swapping-s30/52595-e-88-head-swapping.html #2 and post #3

The actual throat of the throttle body needs cleaning on most all the cars I've bought, they get sticking around where the plate meets the housing. It's easy once you have that hose off. Toothbrush and some lacquer thinner.

Wow, it looks like there was a fire or a bomb explosion. I made on of those with your blower shoved inside clear tubing, it works but it uses ALOT of soda and a huge mess. My neighbors wouldn't even look at me for a few days, it covered everything. Can't wait to see what you come up with, it's gotta be better than mine.

I just wanted to write something so I'd get the green arrow. This is great!

If you have a Nissan dealership close by they were .61 each, $7.32 in May of '12.

That's exactly right. 240 adjustment is by turning the backside bolt, it's big; Crescent wrench, the 280 has the vertical bolt for adjusting tension, 12mm I think but it could be a 14mm. 240 top mounted pulley 280 lower drivers side

Put a new 3 row brass and copper 280 radiator in my '72 240 and a full shroud. Radiator fit great just hangs lower because of the added transmission line cooler cavity. Dumb a## me didn't get all the parts before I started so I'll have to wait until Monday morning for the different shape lower hose, every chain store has the upper but no lowers. Beers are on me, literally.

I'd get the new o-rings too and the newer hex head hold down screws, Nissan part #01121-02981, don't have the number for the o-rings, they came with my FJ707Ts. Check your old holders for cracks then don't over tighten the screws on installation, that's what causes the cracks.

Post #6 also has some photos that might help, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/52166-choke-lever-mount-broken-under-console.html

So you have a stage II? Which company? and do you like it or wish you had gone bigger? I've watched your videos and enjoyed the chirp into 3rd gear. Thanks, Cliff

I'll be searching for the right head gasket thickness and if that lowers the compression too much I'll go with the stage III. Hybridz here I come. I'll have to take a Valium though, those guys can be intense. Maybe I'll just be safe and get the stage III like Dizeased suggest, I'm not going racing.

Well I can hardly wait to measure the seals that are on there now. They're the same blueish green color as the Fel-Pro # SS72686 recommended in the hybridz link. The head came from a knowledgeable Z guy it seemed. His Dad was big into Zs and held onto this E31 head and the Weber 40s for his son who unfortunately had to sale the project, lucky for me though. The only thing I'm doing different than his plan is using flat pistons instead of the dished ones that came with the deal. He too was saving for the cam kit when his new paint and body shop's bills jumped to the front of the line. Life happens. Thanks guys for the help, I can't read or buy y'all's experience.

I'll say $5,000 for a decent car, another $2k getting it reliable and $4k to $5k for a top notch paint jod. There are some very prone areas that rust to look for, https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+rust+areas&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&espv=2&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=iwK_U9rdNtW3yATDxoG4Dg&ved=0CAYQ_AUoAQ&biw=1280&bih=620, plus check the gap width all around the doors hood and hatch. Definitely wear some old clothes and get own your back up under the car, take pictures to look at when you're at home on a bigger screen. Make sure the car is painted the same color in the engine bay as the body, if not it's a repaint and will not be worth as much.

Everything I've read says get the bronze out and replace with steel. If you can find a local machinist that is familiar with our engines I'd go that route, Datsun Parts LLC, from what I've read isn't too concerned about quality control, it's more about moving products. Start at post #44,http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/52438-steam-powered-z.html#post459944 The full monty, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/51401-bronze-valve-seats.html

I'd like to run SUs now and a Weber triple 40s set up I have for later. If it was your car which would you get? Stage iii or the competition? F54 with flat pistons Type intake exhaust duration stage iii .490 290° 242° competition .530 306° 264° Information from here, http://www.iskycams.com/pdfcatalog/2004-05/page176.pdf

I measured and converted to mm the size of the pulley, it's close to the Napa one so I think that would work. I would have to remove mine to get the bearing hole size and I'm sorry but I'm not doing that, that thing's in a tight spot. The fan and the top radiator hose would have to come off. Anyway here's what I have, width 13/16's= 20.6 mm, overall outside diameter 3 11/16=93.6625mm. Napa one is 19mm by 94mm.

It has a info plate on the compressor I can get a picture of, the pulley I can get you the measurements later today. It's probably close to that Napa one in that link.

I've been through a '77' from the front bumper to the rear but couldn't have done it so easily without this, Tech Tips. He's got a '77 too, lucky for us! His name is Blue, people call him Blue.