siteunseen

Well you know me, I got excited and didn't even try and jumper those wires again! BUT, I will when I get back to it this afternoon. When I got it loose these small plastic mint green cheerio looking things fell down the face of the gauge, they were the tops of the melted plastic post that held the bezel in place. I am gonna Gorilla super glue those spots. I went ahead and painted the aluminium trim piece a satin black and the outer housing a flat black. While waiting for the oil paint to dry, many beers, I decided to slow it down and do all I can while that panel is off. Hopefully I can wait a week and get a newer stereo, house payment is this week. It has a Jensen cassette player in there now that I've never even turned on, it looks cool though as it's late '70s, '80s style. If I can drink beer it's not even like work! :laugh: I'm learning to take pictures of everything like you and Blue. And now I know why, too many beers and I'll forget what goes where.

This's the gauge hanging upside down without any pressure from that aluminum trim behind the glass and that's about right as I only put 4 gallons in yesterday after the tank refurbish and drove it 25 miles. I'm gonna check the gauge bulbs before I put it all back, it's a Yoga style PITA, I don't do Yoga. THANKS

I think I've found the problem. While trying to get to rear of the cigarette lighter, which I can't without removing the heater control panel, I noticed the lens on the gauge had a gap on the right side. So I've double over some Gorilla Tape and pulled the lens off the aluminium divider between fuel and amp gauges. The needle moved! So I'm thinking the Barners I bought this car from, tapping on the gauge too hard has messed it up. The sending unit was frozen with rust and I guess they thought the gauge was the problem. I'll let y'all know what happens. And respect to EScanlon for the write up on removing that panel, RIP sir.

You can get a loaner compression gauge at O'reillys or Advance Auto.

So short the black with the yellow, get in and turn the switch to ON and see what happens. Or should the car be running? I didn't do that yesterday because I had it up on a stand, passenger side only. I'll short them at the sender and crank the car and wait until 1 beer is drank, I'll drink it slowly for the 30 second time suggested. I'm so dang stupid! I've got the same car sitting 6 feet away, I'll see when it's gauge starts moving, ON or cranked and on ON.

I'm having trouble with my fuel gauge and need some help. Brand new sending unit with new connections on it. I shorted the 2 wires together at the sending unit, no movement at the gauge. I tried to measure the voltage at the yellow wire without any luck, it was all over the place on my meter. Then I clipped a cheap test light onto it, it blinked, on/off/on/off/etc. So it's getting some power just not a steady supply. I'll try the ground under the cigarette lighter Mikes Z pointed out. Any other ideas before I take the gauge out? Thanks for any help, Cliff

I agree, find something better. But the inspector described things most all 240s have, "The interior carpet is just laying there. The dash is loose. There are wires running out of the center console for the speakers. The blower motor doesn't work. The test drive was good. The engine idles rough but when you drive it it runs good. I did smell some gas."

My '72s don't have electric fuel pumps, they both do good with twin SUs. Have you tried just the mechanical pump? My Dad always told me too much fuel will wash the oil off your bearings and could cause the motor to seize up. Does your oil smell like fuel?

THANK YOU! I'm off to test now. Ahh, I see my mistake now. Yes I meant FULL. I missed it by an E.

...if you short the fuel sending unit wires together the gauge should shoot over to fuel. I'm about to try it and didn't want to burn up my new unit that's not working. I'm pretty sure it's those nail head connections on the wires, I had a heck of a time getting those boots off and think I geeked them up. Is this true?

I found my horn pad under one of the seats on a car I bought a month ago. I took them out looking for anything illegal, :paranoid:. Couldn't find anything,

Be extra careful with your water pump bolts, they'll be rusted and easily brake off. Keep note of which ones go into which hole, they're different lengths and sizes.

I don't think he realized it was yours when he responded. People put craigslist ads up all the time when they're window shopping.

Looks good! Do all the classic tags have the car's year up top in Michigan? I never seen that.

Here's something to read about tuning your SUs. It helped me enough to get by until I get the DVD from ztherapy. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/su-carb-technical-articles/41940-quick-dirty-su-tuning.html And here's a post on understanding the timing, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/51042-reading-distributor-specs-expected-real-world-performance.html

My '87 Hardbody was clicking awhile back. I cleaned all the ground connections and it stopped. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html

Wow! what a 1st experience with the Zs. I'm guessing your OK by the kindly worded post. Read this post by a guy with a '78 too, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/misc-s30/52438-steam-powered-z.html He's had a problem with over heating. Especially look at post #29, it'll show why you've ran hot. You'll get a lot of help here, welcome to this forum. Loosen the bottom radiator hose and put a hose pipe in the top and flush the radiator the best you can. Then take the drain **** out of the bottom of the radiator and put the hose back in the top. Crank your car and let it run, adjust the flow of water to match what comes out the drain hole.

They're snug fitting compared to the old rubber. Be sure to use plenty of the lube that you get with the kit, it'll creak later on if you don't. Here's what helped me the most, Z Tech Tips Suspension (AtlanticZ.ca) || |Â |Â Â |Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â Â Â |Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â Â |

Wow! I've never seen a straight 6 cylinder block used as a toilet. That's funkier than the Cheerio looking things coming out of the vents. You have a very intriguing Datsun.

Carrollton's an hour away. Hopefully I can get involved with you guy's club, It's boring around here.

No, you have to use those same doughnut washers that cover both intakes. The header holes are big enough too. I got the stud kit when I got the 6to1 ceramic header too. When I was playing with them I noticed that they would spin up & down without any effort. That made me think they'd come loose just as easy? So I got into this whole out of round nut locking nut thing. I went to my Nissan parts manager and he said to not use the ones that spin down. Get specific exhaust stud nuts, out of round is what he called them. Once you tighten them down they won't back off, no lock washers needed as they cause an uneven torque. I decided to get the big ones and tap out the holes. I only did 4, I wish I had done them all. Hindsight! Ask Phillip's opinion, I tend to over do it myself.

Is that at Barber's? I live 2 blocks off highway 411 that runs into highway 78 that goes to the track. 45 minutes from my house. Or at Talladega's road course? 30 minutes from my house. I'll google that for more information. Thanks Steve.

Hardway is now Startoffgoodway.

I finally have a car that I'd be proud to show off. I've been holding off on coming over because of that fact. I'll be at one of the Fall meetings for sure and can't wait to meet you Steve.

Not the block, the cylinder head. It's aluminium and easy to do, 10x1.25 to 12x1.25 threads. At least you could do the 1st and the last one, they'll be wallerd out anyway. It sure feels better clamping down on those MSA headers. Those stud kits you get with it are Chinese junk, they'll rust over in no time.