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No, you have to use those same doughnut washers that cover both intakes. The header holes are big enough too. I got the stud kit when I got the 6to1 ceramic header too. When I was playing with them I noticed that they would spin up & down without any effort. That made me think they'd come loose just as easy? So I got into this whole out of round nut locking nut thing. I went to my Nissan parts manager and he said to not use the ones that spin down. Get specific exhaust stud nuts, out of round is what he called them. Once you tighten them down they won't back off, no lock washers needed as they cause an uneven torque. I decided to get the big ones and tap out the holes. I only did 4, I wish I had done them all. Hindsight! Ask Phillip's opinion, I tend to over do it myself.

Is that at Barber's? I live 2 blocks off highway 411 that runs into highway 78 that goes to the track. 45 minutes from my house. Or at Talladega's road course? 30 minutes from my house. I'll google that for more information. Thanks Steve.

Hardway is now Startoffgoodway.

I finally have a car that I'd be proud to show off. I've been holding off on coming over because of that fact. I'll be at one of the Fall meetings for sure and can't wait to meet you Steve.

Not the block, the cylinder head. It's aluminium and easy to do, 10x1.25 to 12x1.25 threads. At least you could do the 1st and the last one, they'll be wallerd out anyway. It sure feels better clamping down on those MSA headers. Those stud kits you get with it are Chinese junk, they'll rust over in no time.

My late '77 has that plug. It also has the sloped up rear deck, does yours? I think in July or August they called them "late '77". Mine build date is 08/'77.

The 1/2" elbow at the top of the tank for the 3/8" line. The same under the vent tank. I cut it close with the measurements. And the tank before I put it back.

I used about 12 feet of speaker wire, the clamps off an old battery charger and 2 alligator clips to straight wire my fuel pump to the battery. Taped the wire down the passenger's side with painter's tape. I use that all of the time testing different things with straight 12 volts. You can also put your Lowes gauge into a 5 foot piece of hose, you don't need the high dollar fuel injection hose for this temporary testing, coming off that "T" then zip-tie it to your windshield wiper so you'll be able to drive and watch the fuel pressure. Leave the hood unlatched.

I wish that was gold! These old 240s would be like the goose that lays golden eggs. I got it all put back together Saturday morning. $65 worth of fuel hose and clamps from O'reillys. Two 3/4" pex elbows for the 180 turn on the 5/8" hose off the back of the tank. Two 1/2" pex elbows for the 3/8" line that hooks in above the sending unit. 1 where the hose goes into the tank, the other under the vent tank to keep the line from pinching together. Started at 5:30 a.m. and was finished at 10:30 a.m. Cleaned up and laying on my couch at 11:30, drinking beer. The universal hose was cheaper but a bit tougher to deal with I'd imagine. Vaseline and a hair dryer were my #1 tools. I'm happy with the end results.

We have a similar problem, musical chairs but with cars and garage space.

Bigger exhaust and intake bolts, I put big ones on each end and 2 in the middle. Now I wish I had done them all, it's a lot sturdier. I think Rebello puts the bigger ones on their re-builds from the pictures I've seen. If you want the part #s I have them, kind of hard to see on the receipt. New plug in connectors and clips for the fuel injectors, a guy on e-bay has a kit for 6 injectors, CSV and the coolant temp sender with the heat shrink included. Hex head hold down screws for the injectors, also have that part number in my file.

Would it be easier to push the hoses through their grommets then hook them to the fuel tank 1st. Snug the fuel tank up, then attach the hoses to the vent tank? I'm trying to work out a plan in my head and that's the best way I can figure out??? Thanks for any past experiences.

Now that's an obvious solution! Too much A. Guthrie? He's nuts!

My new rod is bent just as the old one is. Hopefully it'll be close. Now back to the shoes. I'm no Imelda Marcos but my foot's been size 10 since I was 14, so I have about 50 pairs of shoes and boots, no kidding. Good shoes last a lifetime! My girl friends get a big kick out of my shoe closet. And Thorlo socks, ONLY, they're the best made.

Looks good! Turn the key and go.

I have one of those too but mines a '72.

You're right, I ordered one too. $1.54 You'd make a good FBI Agent, take in everything not just the obvious. Mine are Sanuks though, Sanuk Vagabond Brown - Zappos.com Free Shipping BOTH Ways

How old can this thing be? it looks like it was made and packaged yesterday. Came from Irving, TX Nissan warehouse. $40 at my Nissan dealer, got it in 2 days.

I've always looked for cracking where the hatch's top line comes down to the side window. It's where the strength and rigidity of the body design comes together with a weld and smoothed with some type of body filler. A friend of mine a looong time ago cut the top out of a '75 his Dad gave him. It started "folding up" and he had to have reinforcement welded along the bottom side. Dummy used angle iron and it would get stuck on speed bumps. It's kind of like an eggshell, when you take part of it away you loose the strength of the whole. If it's inspected and has been insured it probably is OK. I'd do some research on it, talk to the shop that did the top and make sure the guys being truthful. My $.02 only.

You've saved me a lot of reading/time/money! I'm keeping the one and only N42 head that I have.

It may be your coil? Mine was low and I could shake it to hear the sloshing of oil.

When I had my 1st problems with a Z back in the late eighties everybody told me I needed the "280 Lady". This guy had a huge junkyard he started when he came back from some war, Vietnam or Korea I'm not sure but his daughter grew up around cars and used the Zs he bought like go-karts. She's forgotten more than I'll ever learn I'm sure. Her Dad passed away and now she drives a 350Z, no heat soak issues with that. Now her and her siblings are selling off everything for scrap and trying to sale the land for a county landfill, it's about 75 acres of oil and anti-freeze soaked ground. What Zs are left have been robbed of good parts already and nothing older than 280s with N47 heads. And there's an Alabama girl on hybridz with a V8 swapped car she drag races.

I went through pretty much the same with a 240 I bought a month or so ago. I replaced the distributor and coil with the newer ZX's electronic ignition. It let it go past the 2500 rpm stall, under a load, it would rev up fine sitting in the garage. If you want to rule out fuel starvation, secure a gas jug in front of the radiator. Drill 2 holes in the top and run your fuel lines into the jug, supply and return. I put a shop towel around them then taped it up real good and went for a drive. Still wouldn't go past 2500 on the road. get one of these too, https://www.google.com/search?q=clear+glass+fuel+filter&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=kgOgU5fDGIqeqAaskoGABg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1280&bih=620 I put one before the fuel pump and it would cloud up like a glass of tea but the bigger plastic filter caught the crap 1st. Now I'm in the middle of cleaning the tank and replacing fuel lines. Look at these photos, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/funnybone/52471-developing-story.html