siteunseen

I like it. If the motor is good, $2,500 would be fair. But since you can't drive it, offer $2,000 or less.

When I removed my EGR and BPT valve, I had to plug the hose coming off the bottom of the BCDD that ran to the BPT. Were you having similar problems before you removed that stuff?

Is that on Comcast or satellite in Alabama?

Thanks Dennis, I'd read about the reproduction strips but mine are in pretty good shape for now. I only broke off a 1/4" of that center post removing them and am hoping silicone dobbs will hold it in place until I am ready to do a full on restoration. After removing them I found that black paint on the red lenses. At 1st I thought it could be soot but it's paint. I don't see the need to re apply it as the strips will cover that area, but if it's needed I'll do it. OK, now I've found where Dr 240Z has his painted, didn't notice earlier when I read his write up, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/electrical-s30/51111-240z-tail-light-refurbishment.html Thanks again Dr 240Z.

Thanks guys, that looks perfect. I think I was taking the "match striker" look too literal. 1 more question though. Mine have a black strip painted on the red plastic. Do I need to do this or is it something a previous owner did? What did you all do? Pictures below. Thanks for your help, Cliff.

Red Line 75/90 got the whine out of my '72. Whatever came out was orange like Sunkist.

Question on the Duplicolor #102 Graphite. I've sprayed my rear finisher 2 or 3 times. In between coats I've knocked the sheen off with 0000 steel wool. It looks so good dull I want to spray the matte clear over the lightly sanded Duplicolor. Would that be a mistake? It get's the metallic looking sparkles out but everything I've read says spray the matte straight on the Duplicolor. I'm guessing "it's up to you" will be the consensus but was hoping to hear someone else had done the same. Thanks for any experiences. Cliff

More motivation! I've read that thread 2 or 3 times and am still intimidated with the dash cap install. It's still in the bag, hanging under a wire shelf in my spare bedroom.

I put my valve cover on upside down once, thermostat side is straighter IIRC. Could it be the EGR tunnel sucking in air somehow?

Or deep throaty?

Standard FJ707Ts are good and not too expensive, $30. They come with the O rings and a clamp. https://www.google.com/search?q=standard+fj707t&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=h_TpU77GIcme8gHfoYG4DA&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAg&biw=1280&bih=620

...that came with a 2.4 motor. Going to get it Friday.

Thanks! I bought 10 from my Nissan dealer Friday. I am just getting around to installing them, I cleared them with Valspar Flat and it looks dusty dirty. I've bought the Duplicolor Matte clear for the rear finisher and will hit the emblems with that. I'm hoping the matte finish will look better than the flat. Thanks again.

Here's good read,http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/interior-s30/48276-full-dash-cover-installation-help.html. 1973 starts at #37, he had the same problems as you.

According to Dashtop's web site it's right, 240Z

Mine have a pharmaceutical magnet under the drivers seat. What I did today was put the steering rack poly bushings on #918. With the car up on ramps and no weight on the steering or suspension it was simple. I had already prepared myself for unbolting the motor mounts and jacking the front up a few inches, but NOOOO thank goodness.

After a good drive my ashtray is hot enough to light a cigarette it seems. I've got the 2.5" exhaust so maybe that's my heat source. My reverse light switch used to leak a little too but it's the same level as the fill plug so I always thought I had too much in there, it has quit doing it. Maybe it's bone dry?

So where does the plug from MSA go?

I've found 2 12oz cans of R-12 and a can of the oil. Might just put the oil in and save the freon for next year. I don't know much about the A/Cs and will be pulling the motor out this fall. I'd hate to waste the 2 cans unintentionally.

I tried sneaking up behind a horse, of course.

I talked to a machinist. He says the cylinders were cleaned up and that widened them by .030". That's why it has the .030 over sized rings for the stock pistons. He's an old friend of my Dad's and laughed at me! He said to clean the hell out of everything and bring it to him for measuring to make sure it's all going to work. I can get bent out of shape when I don't understand things, that's why I'm still single and half nuts.

Straddle a ditch......

I wasn't in my right mind when I posted that last night. I was wondering if .030 is a common cylinder over size after a machine shop honing. I believe that is the reason for the part number to be 6124 030. I definitely will do a dry fitting before installing these rings that came with the block assembly.

My F54 cylinder holes measure 3.4" after a good cross hatch honing. I've got some Hasting rings, 1.5 1st 2.0 2nd then the oil ring 4.0, for the ZX pistons. Does that -030 at the end of the part number mean thirty thousandths larger? Would 3.416" be too tight? They're cast iron I believe. Thanks for any help/ideas/opinions, Cliff

That'd be easy to get that look. MSA black fiberglass bumpers, Motorsport! Fiberglass Bumpers - The Z Store, Nissan-Datsun 240Z-260Z-280Z-280ZX-300ZX(Z31/Z32)-350Z-370Z Parts $350, Xenon #3124 front spoiler Xenon 3124 Xenon Front Air Dams - Free Shipping on All Orders @ JEGS $168 from Jegs.