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It's hard to get it in the hole with the cover off! I just took one off an L24 and there's no way in hell the plunger could get in the oil pan except in pieces.

I bought those last year when I bought my 16" Rewinds from Direct Tire, they get $45 for a set of the same lugs. I've had those wheels off and on all 3 of my cars and I use an impact wrench, not a scratch yet. I bought another set yesterday for the 15" Rewinds I'll be getting in a month or so.

Definitely a "measure twice and cut once" project because they're hard (expensive) to replace. 0000 steel wool 1st then I used a light compound and wax on the lenses. Painted the insides of the housing with gloss white. Used flat push nuts and rubber washers to attach the chrome strip, also painted the inside strip flat black. I found a fastener for that middle plastic post, the one you have to break off, that holds on the chrome strip. It has to be ground down though. I used a die to cut threads in the plastic post which did two things, took away the taper and gave it some "teeth" to grab the fastener's threads when I pushed it down onto the post. I dripped some Gorilla Super Glue on there for extra strength. I also painted the metal finisher with graphite wheel paint, Duplicolor #102 and their matte clear wheel coat. Then, TOUCHDOWN ALABAMA!!!

16 12x1 25 Silver Lug Nuts Mod Tech Gline Konig Wheels | eBay

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/engine-drivetrain-s30/50112-timing-chain-tensioner.html

Here's a pretty good circulation diagram to look at. Except for the potential to leak at those connections, I don't see a reason to delete it.

Interesting. Here's that part on a set of SUs I just bought. The above pictures are on my February '72 model that I honestly don't think had the part. Maybe someone with more knowledge on the different types will know for sure. The car runs great and starts right up, sometimes without any choke. I see you live waaay up there so you may need it but if it's replaceable, it's removable.

IMO the blue thing is a shaving kit and the black one is a coffee maker.

Where you been?

Here's mine. I was too scared to mess with the one at the thermostat housing but changed the back one. I cut the old hard and brittle one off with a razor knife then the newer rubber was bendable to get it on.

The '78 has a 2 fuel, 1 inlet the other's the return line, and 1 vacuum nipple. Some people don't use the CSV. Maybe it's been deleted? Put up a picture so we can see. here's a '78 FPR, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=47132&cc=1209260 and a '77s, http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=46963&cc=1209248 Does the driver's door plate date say it's a '77? Usually September is when they change to the next year on the title.

Yeah when you swap to the electronic dizzy it does away with the ballast resistor giving it 12V.

When you say a stock coil do you mean a stock ZX coil? or your stock 240 coil? There's a difference.

I've got an aluminium rail similar to those Pallnet makes. I ran the CSV hose off a "T" at the back. One side goes to the FPR, the other to the CSV.

I'm beginning to feel a little like Jeffery Dahmer, collecting heads. I've got an E31 3 E88s 1 N42 1 N47 and a P79 3 of those are on my cars. TOOT TOOT!

How long can a Z car sit? I have 2 that I'm neglecting a little bit while I'm working on my newest one. I charge their batteries once a month and crank them every weekend I just don't drive them. I'm worried about the fuel sitting still in the tank. I can't decide whether to fill the tank or leave it lower because I won't be driving them. I know this isn't the worst problem to have but still a worry to me. Thanks for any recomendations.

What's under the blue cover where the battery is supposed to be? Another 4 barrel? "That's some weird, wild stuff." YES!

Blue swapped his hot post to the outside to keep it from possibly sliding over and arcing on the inside of the fender. I'm sure others have done the same as it's not a bad idea come to think of it.

It's a '73 but the head has been serviced before. Also had the round mouth carbs installed when the head was done. It has one of those "heat buttons" siliconed on the end casting plug that has "Birmingham CHS- VOID IF REMOVED".

That header's too far gone. What would those bungs have been for? Thanks.

The end of the rainbow Nice clean early E88, small valves Odd looking ports on header runners

Another good source for 240's heater hose, Datsun 240Z, 260Z, 280Z, 280ZX & Mazda RX7 iCatalog - Black Dragon Auto I just looked at MSA's prices, a good bit cheaper! Plus when you put in your Member ID # from this forum you'll get a 10% discount, that'll help with their shipping fees.

Nice car. My air filter housing looks very similar maybe worse.

Yes and you have accumulated a substantial amount of Z points that are worth millions! Please allow us to transfer the funds into your bank. We will need your SS number, date of birth and your mothers maiden name. Gymmie from Nigeria.

I suffer from that too. I call it herpeZZZ.