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siteunseen

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Everything posted by siteunseen

  1. 225mm and 240mm is all I've ever seen. 240mm is for the 2+2, 225mm for a coupe. Some put the 240mm in coupes, more grip surface. Sorry I can't say for sure.
  2. I appreciate that info. I'm about an hour west of Cartersville and used to go to Road Atlanta some before they built Barber's in Leeds. I had been thinking of trying Eddie Raditz's shop, it's over in that area also. Thanks again.
  3. I have an F54 87mm overbore block with some new 87mm dished pistons. I know that 1mm is .040" but the ring set that came with all this is .030" oversize. Is that what I need or should I get .040" oversize rings? Thanks for any help, Cliff
  4. I got so engulfed in my first rebuild I can't imagine squeezing in a move. It's all I thought about until I cranked it.
  5. Thank you, thank you! I really wanted to see how the wedge shaped landing was made into the fiberglass, your 2nd picture is perfect. That left end looks like an additional piece of fiberglass, hopefully my painter can sand it down enough it won't be too noticeable. I will order 1 today. Thanks again.
  6. Those are great prices on chroming but I need to get the holes welded up and a couple of dings out first. I'm wanting to drive this car for a few years then get it painted and the bumpers chromed so this is temporary. I carried my front to a local powder coater yesterday and he told me that it's permanent, no chroming after the powder coating. Kacrow76 and Chas, you've pretty much made my decision. I needed to know that they bolted up, all the others are naked bumpers without any mounts built in. Thanks for everybodies replies, Cliff
  7. I did the math 15 years ago. :classic:
  8. That's what I was thinking Mr Beck. I'm just starting to get older and a little wiser with my money.
  9. May very well be electrical, they fail when hot then cool down and come back to life. I think the easiest thing to do is clean all the grounds and connections you can. Takes about an hour and doesn't cost anything. Here's some help with it, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html
  10. Dang! I wish I had room, I'd buy that and part it out. The bumpers and tail light assembly are worth a grand, easily.
  11. Well that wasn't what I wanted. Bumpers only, no landings. He suggested I use 3M adhesive to hold the bumper to the bracket, not too keen on that. So I'm back to ask about MSA's bumpers. Appreciate any input.
  12. Here's a thread that'll have some info. Starts at #12, http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/check-out-my-ride/52534-my-new-baby-72-240z.html Likely the heater valve's leaking. Still available from Nissan. #32 has some tips on getting to it. Have fun!
  13. Those look like the ones that came with my fuel injectors, they look as good today as the day I put them on. Not being stainless I thought they might get a little rusty but not at all in 2 years. Here's a 4 pack for $2.99, Autocraft 5/16" Automotive Fuel Injection Hose Clamp (4-Pack) AC52F15V: Shop the best Hose Clamp at Advance Auto Parts
  14. That's going to be a lot of fun.
  15. On the first night of real estate school, went through it with my step mom, caveat emptor "buyer beware" was a phrase I learned and often repeat. Working at a restaurant I've also learned you'll get screwed at the drive thru.
  16. Wow! Just sent him pictures of what I have. I found his phone number googling "fiberglassfabrication" off an ebay listing. Parkway something or another in New Jersey. He said he sales through distributors but they're out of stock so he's selling direct? Thank you Steve. I wanted to ask you about my E88 head I recently bought, valves and what not. When I get these bumpers off my mind I'll send you a PM. Ramsey, NJ
  17. That's funny. Looks to be a great car you've bought. I have those same floor mats in mine.
  18. If someone who has purchased the 240 ones recently could tell me of the fit and finish of what they have now, I'd appreciate it. I can only find comments, which weren't too good, from 5 years ago. Hopefully they have improved. I've found some at ztrix.com but they don't have the bracket landings glassed in, you have to run bolts through them to attach. He makes them for racers. I want the smooth finish like MSA's. Thank you for any response, Cliff
  19. Looks good to me, especially the motor. Look between the front 2 spark plugs to see which cylinder head you have, some numbers cast into the aluminum, then look on the drivers side bottom of the block to find which block you have. Here's a good read on different set-ups, Datsun L-series ZCAR engine modifications Here's the different colors, 70-78 Datsun Z Paint Code Gallery
  20. Just do it on an empty stomach, HaHa. I jacked mine up, removed the tire and put a smaller bottle jack under the A arm to get mine loose. I found it easier getting behind the rotor for those 2 bolts.
  21. What's got everybodies panties in a bunch? If Blue wants to complain, let him. "Forum (legal), designated space for public expression in the United States".
  22. Here's some good pictures that'll help, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/suspension/comprod/index.html
  23. They put pee pee in our Coke and thought it was funny.
  24. I think LeonV hit the nail head. https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=testing%20a%20brake%20booster But Mr Warner makes a good catch also, inlet and outlet hoses reversed. Here's a picture of mine for reference.
  25. That red goo looks like a half done Red Kote tank lining. Reads like the PO dropped the tank to seal it and saw what a PITA it is and slapped it all back on too quick. That stuff takes at least a week to cure. I don't think he waited and got in a hurry with the hoses too, maybe his daily driver? I would check the fuel hardlines from the tank to the engine bay with an air gun to see if you have blockage there from the uncured Red Kote. Here's a picture of mine after lining it, looks very similar in color.

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