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That's the best thing I've done to mine so far and after much research and advice from other members the Crane PS20. It has the same OHMS as a ZX stock coil, 1.5, and is American made. Amazon.com: Crane Cams 730-0020 PS20 Performance Coil: Automotive You won't need the ballast resistor. Go down about 3/4s of the page and look at the 2nd 240Z schematics. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html

While you 'splainin to the missus, go ahead and try telling her why you need round mouthed carbs instead of the ones you have.

I've read POR 15 fuel tank sealer then POR 15 on the outside will fix a tank if it's really bad, lots of work though and probably $100 worth of materials. Here's one on e-bay for $300 plus shipping, not too bad in my opinion but you might get it cheaper making an offer, 75 76 Datsun 280z Fuel Tank Gas Tank | eBay

Yes, thank you. I have to replace on myself.

Another little known tech secret. Put your arrow in a picture, hold down the S key and right click. It gives info on the picture. 1975 280Z in the movie Legends of the Superheroes, 1979. IMCDb.org: 1975 Datsun 280Z [s30] in "Legends of the Superheroes, 1979"

I agree. Back when I had my first Zs the gauge would go waaaay past E. Now that I can afford to fill them up, when they're on or near E, they only hold about 10 gallons. I'm learning the gauges in these cars were/are their shortfall.

Finally put the wheel back on after 2 weeks, almost. After getting it back on it finally feels like a classic sports car.

Like everything else, it's easier to ask forgiveness than permission. It's the new "normal" everybody is using now days.

Is this a Georgia car? It seems like I've read Matt Isbell had something to do with this beauty.

Cool! Your Z's like the Six Million Dollar Man, "better... stronger... faster".

That looks good. I might have to rig up some kind of way to secure my horn pad in the future. The plastic ring that clips down on the horn mechanism is or was cracked pretty bad. I have Gorilla glued the hell out of it with zip ties holding it together tightly. I am putting it on today so fingers crossed, it'll stay. What are those two buttons in front of your ashtray? You have power windows?

What a sham! It's like a pufferfish. I am using a Fram cannister filter like that on my D21 pick-up. My Z's is a Wix.

My 1st car engine re-build was an L28. I bought this book, http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410169231&sr=8-1&keywords=how+to+rebuild+your+datsun. I didn't have one single problem and it fired right up, never had to call my Dad for help. He was amazed and disappointed.

Needing 280z 1977 datsun parts

I forgot to add, I don't recommend Valspar's spray paint. The sheen isn't accurate and it takes forever to dry. I ended up buying a HVLP sprayer from Autozone for $60 and it works great. 3 parts flat oil to 1 part gloss oil, thinned 50% worked out really good for the spokes. On the rim I used some Fabulon Super Satin wood floor poly I had from when I sealed my hardwood floors in my house. The 1st try, with the Helmsman and Valspar rattle can black worked as a kind of pre conditioning for the final finish. Sanding off the Helmsman actually brought the fake grain out like a sanding sealer would've done. Sanding the Valspar off worked like a body filler would on some scratches that were on the spokes. Now I get to put it back together and drive.

This is from my '78 FSM. FS5W71B manual 5 speed, 4 1/4 US pint. So I had to get 3 quarts. It's on page MT-18.

I did my wheel like everybody else. After sanding the rim I wiped it with mineral spirits to get the dust off. I liked that look but I went ahead and did the Helmans coat with some semi-gloss I had already. Turned out good but I don't like shiny so I re-did it with satin, spokes and the rim. Now I'm HAPPY. On the horn pad I covered DATSUN with Vaseline before I sprayed it and the black wiped right off, old school trick from painting cabinets without removing the hardware.

The MS II didn't fix the problems you had in the beginning? You've replaced a lot of stuff and it hasn't helped, I did that too. For mine the biggest thing was a huge rotted hole under the intake at the back, windshield, where the EGR is. Get a mirror and look under there. The 2nd thing was putting a potentiometer in the coolant temp sensor circuit. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/tempsensorpot/index.html

The center caps are for a B210 and on e-bay for $17 each. google.com images, https://www.google.com/search?q=40343-W5710&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&es_sm=93&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=50AHVIDPI4XJgwTCgoKYCA&ved=0CAoQ_AUoAw&biw=1280&bih=620#imgdii=_

Here's Blue's Tech Tip for replacing them, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/rearwheelbearings/index.html You might get an idea :bulb: from it. Hopefully it's in your brakes, this looks like a PITA.

First money I'd spend is a new fuel filter. Passenger's side fender, behind the radiator, $10. Sluggish could be from the timing be off, not so sure about an exhaust leak causing it. You should do a cheap tune up for $50 before setting the timing though. Distributor cap and rotor button, new spark plugs and maybe wires. Chain parts stores have the parts, cheap too. Here's a good helping of tips and with plenty of pictures. Tech Tips Go to "electrical" and read about cleaning the grounding wires, it will help bring it back alive.

Anybody else tried this color, Atomic Orange, on #918?

That's amazing. Those treads look the same as the spare in my '72.

"Garage Art", that's perfect.

Nice car.