siteunseen

Your topic is very enlightening. ​

Hard to tell with 17s in there but they look great. Those fit without any modifications? My front tires rubbed the outer edge of the fender when I turned real tight.

You can lift the pistons in the carbs and disable them to see if both are functioning. Or push that pin up, whatever's easiest. If you disable one and it has no effect on the running of the car you may have carb problems. I'm assuming you have SUs. Can't watch video on this device.

Like he's a polygamist?

If you do buy a turbo make sure and get the ECU for it, they're different from NA motors.

2.5 turns counterclockwise from the top. Turn them towards the passenger's side until they're tight then back down towards the driver's fender 2.5 turns. Put a scratch on one of the ears so you can keep up with your turns.

I honestly don't know but side by side with my other 240 it looks to be about 2" lower. The previous owner had the springs cut.

I've wondered about the difference in torque numbers for poly versus rubber. When I put mine on I just tightened them enough to barely deform the bushing and slathered them with that silicone looking stuff. The old rubber was so deteriorated I'll never know any different. It cuts like it's on a rail and I like that.

I think he's saying dumping money into the L24 motor that he may not keep??? I don't know about New Jersey, but in Alabama you could put a jet turbine in the car and never get to turn it up unless you're planning on going to a race track. The police are terrible right now, they're broke and pulling people over left and right to make they're payday or their "brothers" get laid off from work. I like high RPMs but with a header and 2.5" exhaust it's almost impossible around here. Aren't the roads pretty bumpy up there too? You could build a rocket but only get to talk about how fast it is. I'm building a decent E31 cylinder head with a bigger, smaller actually in size, cam kit. Easily removed for the stock E88 if I decided to sale the car.

I have the Rewinds too, 15x7 with 205/50s. 16s rubbed on my lowered 240 so I put them on the 280.

I quit when when everybody started texting and driving. I was so nervous watching for what was coming next it wasn't enjoyable anymore. 4 ankle fusions a torn PCL and rotator cuff, cracked ribs punctured a lung and busted my spleen, I look like Frankenstein. Haven't been able to run since 1985 when I first broke my ankle and had it fused together.

Maybe the dimmer switch needs some work. Squirt some electrical cleaner in it and turn it a few times. Or you may have to get inside the combo switch and put 12 volts straight to solder spot and see if they light up. There's some write ups on the turn signal mechanism, you'll have to search around. Mine have always worked.

I'm on my phone so I can't show the pictures but above the rear quarter windows is a weld that kind of ties the rear to the front. Back when we didn't have the internet a friend of mine made his a targa top. It started folding up. He had to get some iron welded to the bottom to keep it straight. You can see a crack on my '77 where that weld was smoothed over with Bondo. The roof is like a support bridge.

Nice car! You're ahead of the pack already. There's another Jersey guy that has a '73 recently bought, Matthew. Maybe y'all could exchange some help betweenest the two. Welcome to our forum.

Have you found this yet? http://datsunzgarage.com/engine/ Good read.

I got lucky with my '77. The key code sticker was still stuck to the inside of the glove box lid. A locksmith made a copy and after some more smoothing of the cuts it works like a charm. The one that came with it would pull out in any position, fall out actually.

The dash looks crack free, that's a plus and a working clock without a battery, that's spooky.

I'm not too sure mine will be ready either. But the 280's good to go, I just can't lock the driver's door. I need to fix that anyway.

You could probably find similar rubber boots for covering the hot post on a solenoid, lawn mower or a boat motor?

I remember a little more now after seeing a picture of mine. I used the old unit to get the right size before crimping the wire in. They "clicked" when they were right. Put the old hard boots on the wire first then crimped the connector on. Clicked them on then slathered on the liquid tape and slid the boot over the connectors. I used high heat connectors like these, not the aluminiums ones with the big plastic sleeve. If they ever come off I'll solder them on.

I've never had it happen but maybe if you could swap in a different AFM and see what happens? They're all gone from the junked Zs around my area. You could search the junkyard car parts website. I deleted all that stuff off mine a few years ago when I rebuilt the motor, it all works good and I'd be happy to take some pictures for you. Here's one without all the markings.

Seriously Captain Obvious, I'm going with the idea of meeting everybody, walking around and looking at some cars, just a guest at the Hilton. I'd like to go to Beale Street one night but mostly hang around the hotel, it's a short vacation for me. If there's something I have to see I'll bet that a $100 donation to the Delta Z Club will get me access. Probably spend a lot of time in the bar area singing karaoke, "Rockin' Down the Highway".

That's what I did ^^^^. Then coated everything with liquid electrical tape. Not the prettiest but works good and they are removable.

I'm planning on sneaking in. I'll hold an umbrella over Guy. He's got a rock star collection.

There's a port vacuum hose off the bottom of the BCDD that drove me nuts, like a ships wheel. The hose came off the BPT ? valve next to the EGR I believe. Plugged it coming out of the BCDDs bottom. I looked at my '77 and that open bung you have goes to my A/C fast idle servo. I thought, for as long as it took to walk downstairs, it was for your FPR.