siteunseen

When I was doing hurricane work we went to the plastic furniture dollies. They lasted so much longer than the wooden plus the higher weight capacity. https://www.harborfreight.com/30-in-x-18-in-1000-lb-capacity-polypropylene-dolly-69566.html

What alternator are you running? I'm considering putting some rattle in the hatch of my '77. Be like 1986 with four Pioneer 6x9 ts6907 in a plywood box. The Z is a perfect coupe for LOUD.

And if you're going to buy a new aar you should reroute your pcv hoses to the '78s. It was rerouted to keep the oily funk out of the aar. This is a pic I grabbed real quick but you may want to do some better research. You can Google"78 pcv hose update classiczcars.com"

I'm sure the fsm has the specs but I'm lazy. What degrees in farenheit does it close/open. My 280 stays in a garage that never gets below 50F and it always cranks up and idles just below 1,000 but I took the aar and warming plate off to get rid of the clutter and potential problem points. I just hit the gas pedal when it's about to die out but by the time I get out of my neighborhood it's up to temp and runs fine. I think it's called "heel to toe"?

We're almost om the same page. This is a magnified picture into the larger bottom hole. Inside this red circle is a little arm that moves clockwise to open the blade in the smaller top hole about halfway to let air through, raising the rpms. It's hard to see but it's there. Looks like a flacid penis pointing to the left. I'll put 12V on the blade later and see what happens. Must mow grass and drink cold beverages first.

That is the larger bottom hole the screwdriver is in, pushing against the little arm circled in red. That's what opens this one I have.

Here's some pictures I made this morning of one I had It's closed at 60F. The red circle is what opens the top hole by way of the blade with the windings on it. I guess it twist when 12V hits it?

I'm thinking it may be a wiring connection problem too along with Zed Head. You have new parts without the fix you're after. Some people delete those things and stay on the gas pedal until it warms up. Mine had a problem where the electrical connection would twist and pull out of the aluminum body of the AAR. I've never understood dropping electrical windings in water, maybe shoot it with a heat gun or hairdryer to see if the plates move. https://www.google.com/search?q=aar+delete+classiczcars.com+&client=ms-android-americamovil-us-revc&source=android-home&source=hp&ei=r4d5YsfZHqmfqtsPlrmFkAI&oq=aar+delete+classiczcars.com+&gs_lcp=ChFtb2JpbGUtZ3dzLXdpei1ocBADMgUIIRCgATIFCCEQoAEyBQghEKsCOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARDRAzoICC4QsQMQgwE6CwgAEIAEELEDEIMBOgUIABCABDoOCC4QgAQQsQMQxwEQowI6DgguEIAEELEDEMcBENEDOgsILhCABBDHARCjAjoFCC4QgAQ6CAguEIAEELEDOhEILhCABBCxAxCDARDHARCjAjoOCC4QgAQQsQMQgwEQ1AI6CAgAEIAEEMkDOgUIABCSAzoICAAQgAQQsQM6CwguEIAEEMcBEK8BOgcIABCABBAKOgYIABAWEB46BQgAEIYDUJEMWI1VYPxhaAFwAHgBgAHMAYgB-hGSAQYwLjE0LjGYAQCgAQGwAQA&sclient=mobile-gws-wiz-hp#cobssid=s&sbfbu=1&pi=aar delete classiczcars.com

I guess I'm saying once the pump is installed and timed correctly at TDC the tang should be in the position on that pic. There's a fat side and a small side you need to keep in mind. Once the pump is timed correctly your distributor should fit in place with the rotor button on #1 that lines up with the raised line on the outside of the cap just above the front clip.

Yes, after you install the oil pump it shoild look like this...

That's why I'm not married. I would have to have more than one.

It could be the water pump or the distributor button too. Get a short piece of garden hose to use a stethoscope and you can get really close with that.

Here's those pictures I mentioned earlier. The 16s on the 240 look too big but I should have gotten a smaller tire. First 2 are the 16s, rest are OE 14s plus 14s on the aluminum slots.

I found this after a quick look a my thread. Me and @madkaw had figured out a repeatable depth procedure as they will bulge if yo put them on too far/deep. Hope it helps. Ask again and I'll try harder but I remember using feeler gauges stacked together to get the same depth/height, whichever way you're looking at it. I used the distance from the head up to the bottom of the seal's bottom side of the metal band. https://www.classiczcars.com/forums/topic/50909-72-240z-rebuild/?do=findComment&comment=475701&_rid=23570

Some old dusty books I found in my library... I can't find the different numbers but they're the same. Seems like I have some S numbers and some E numbers? Send them to Delta for resurfacing for sure. Great job at a good price.

I would charge the battery overnight on 2 amp setting. Sounds like what mine does when the battery is low. The old alternators don't do too well on recharging. I have trickle chargers that really help.

I had to slightly dent my bearing cap for the Koning center cap to fit nice and snug too.

I bought these for both sets of Rewinds. They are well made and I'm been very happy with them. Click on "full description". https://www.ebay.com/itm/110687628566?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item19c57f2d16:g:l8cAAOxyn9BRZsRz&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAAA4N2TChZkUthnaOERQSBZXi9aj%2B42MvFsxqhC7%2BVVvkDpS4LLqtZMCFrqyOw7aPoLv0y0PRLPqeiP%2BAo9uj3EMlLamYZpS0Uwe%2BdexP%2FthWOrp0PFF7SRaPVwyb1mDWuUCH79hoKH%2FxW8HkqJnGeOubUjSukOwwx1ez29SP7CxW%2FRJf8%2ByL%2BZ2Au%2BKfC5xVnnosAPsQLDDqKZcZV6KKf6zND9VrLhT974UdK0Iv%2BirKCntis0jjEHQiwz0ja%2BjhJ0rOH4ZfdQOBRtrwmLJos8JYqibtpsNJkgpCmc6FjxcqnY|tkp%3ABFBMqpyeo5Ng

I like the machined shiny lip, goes good with the bumpers and window trim on my car. Msa has all black rewinds that look more race...y?...ie? 0 offset and 4x114.3 like Jim says above. I bought 2 sets from discount tire a few years ago. They were the least expensive I could find then.

Mine are fel pros I'm 99.9% sure. They were easily available at the time from local chain auto parts store. I have some more info from my build thread I can post too, also on my laptop unfortunately. I can get that for you this weekend when I'm off work. Hopefully you're in the planning stage and not in a hurry...

Damn you're good! I never had rubber tires, they were all foam if I remember right.

Late thought edit: To keep from whizzing off all my buddies that run 16s on 240s I could have gotten a smaller side wall tire. I'll include the sizes when I get back. I really like the 15s with Hankook 205/55-15 (I think ) on my 240 though. Shameless show off... Those are 14s on the slots back there on that red one BTW.

I have 16" on my 280 but 15s on my 240. The 16s on the 240 remind me of a favorite toy I had as a kid, Stompers. I've got some good pictures of the 16s on a 240 I had but sold. They're on my laptop though and I only get it out to pay bills. So in the next couple of days I will post some photos and let you see what I saw.

I've gotten lazy over the years after building my 2.4. I did balance the rods and piston cups out of boredom, they were very close from the factory but older 240 aren't as close as the 280s from all I've read. Anyhow the darn thing runs so good and fun to drive-iness I attribute to the 10Lb aluminum flywheel I put in. It's fast enough for my weekend drives around here. One day I'll put the e-31 and cam kit together but no rush. Anyway... Diseazd is talking about this I believe. He gets his from Eiji at Datsun Spirit I think but I bought felpros for a Ford after reading a whole helluva a lot about all this. https://forums.hybridz.org/topic/25807-improved-l6-valve-stem-seals/ My still in the bag, on the shelf with the rest of the goodies waiting for life to get back to boring.

Mine is 50 years old and I beat like it kicked my dog. No problems. Plus one on OE equipment.