siteunseen

Here's the write up for changing to the ZX distributor, it shows the basic steps you'll need to just pull the old one off. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html I've got the Cardone remanufactured one and it's like new, so yes they are fine. Here's one from Advance with a 30% coupon code, TRT30. Cardone Distributor - Electronic - Remanufactured Part No: 31-618 Warranty: LIMITED LIFETIME REPLACEMENTExact Fit for your 1977 Nissan 280Z x RemoveUpdatePick Up AtShip to Home$101.99$71.39TRT30:-$30.60 Product Subtotal:$71.39

It's no Ikea either, but it is cool.

Doing it right! Great job.

Just saw this on craigslist. M3 swap, http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/cto/5220606509.html

Is it reddish in color? Ity looks like a good one but I'm going with Nissan as much as I can, thanks Dizeased for that suggestion. i just got all the heater hoses the other day for half what everybody else is charging, I give the Nissan parts guy food on Saturdays when he's there by himself. He gives me the lowest price he can get away with. I'll trade my buddy's chicken for cheaper OE parts, he don't care anyway. I got a bunch of parts with a car I bought and have no idea what's what. It doesn't look like the cork gaskets on my SU float chamber lids.

Here's something to look at, you might find a part number, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html I bought one for a ZX off amazon.com for around $100. No cap or rotor button though but that was only $20 from a local chain parts store. If you take the cap off and suck on the vacuum line going to the distributor you can kind of see the plates move but actually you'll feel it better than seeing. You can tell the difference in your breathing. Sucking will make it move until it hits the sides, then it'll stop and you can't suck any more. Gigga Dee

I've not heard of many tachs going bad. It's usually something before the tach in the ignition. But it could be a bad tachometer? Many more potentials to consider before replacing the gauge. Hopefully some of the pros will join in.

Sorry

Have you looked at the cam sprocket marks? It'll show retarded or advanced mechanical timing. Maybe you can move the cam sprocket to the next number and get closer. Timing chain stretch and guides that are worn causes slack in the chain making it retarded, like me. Infoformation on what it means, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/timing/mechtime.html

I've read too much negative stuff on cork. Actually it's just a reddish color and I've called it cork? It came with some parts I bought a few years ago. Anyway, Nissan has one coming Monday morning for me at $13. I'll lightly skim both sides with Permatex Ultra Black, the oil resistant stuff I need for the rear main cap, hopefully I'll never have to take the pan off anyway. Thank you all for your sharing your experiences. Cliff

Try google.com. I found some stuff from 2011, I stopped on the 18th page! You have a lot of info out there. classiczcars.com patcon https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=classiczcars.com+patcon&start=130&filter=0

What do you guys do? I'm thinking of RTV on the pan then a cork gasket then another thin skim on the block. Overkill? Just the cork gasket? Just the RTV? Thanks for any suggestions. Cliff

That's something you may want to change in the future, it really brought mine alive after I swapped. Mostly because the points weren't adjusted right, my fault. Anyway here's a diagram for a '72 you can look over to make sure yours is wired right. Make sure all the connections are nice and tight especially where they just slide on the ballast resistor. (thanks Blue and zhome.com)

My 72s had distributor points originally. Then I upgraded to ZX electronic ignition distributor that had a special way to be wired for the tach to work. I'm on my phone now so I can't show you the difference, sorry. But under the distributor cap is where mechanical points are. Electronic distributor off a ZX will have a matchbox size black plastic box on the side with wires connected. I can help better on my laptop in the morning if somebody doesn't beat me to it. We like to help figure out problems. Cliff

Below the oil filter on passengers side is where the oil pressure sending unit is. Make sure that wire is on tight. Your tach could be a lot of different things. Wire at the distributor or coil. Do you have points?

Love it! I'm partial to the color. Hang around here and you'll be driving it in 3 months.

Another good write up for adjusting valves, not Blue but his flip-flop wearing friend. https://web.archive.org/web/20080720024048/http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=12&uid=786489&gid=1803105

The blue label is straight 20 weight and thats what nissan reccomends. Bought mine at Lowes.

Girls?

I've only used the blue label 3in1 myself. When everything else is working right I'm going to try different oils. Here's my short list, ATF, John Deere hydrostatic 20 weight, 10w30. I need to read more into it though as far what thickness works best for the weather around here. The 3in1 is working good so far but I don't know what to compare it to. If you're going to keep your carbs I'd spend $30 on one of these, ebay or amazon has good prices. Takes the guessing out of the process.

After rebuilding the carbs you'll have to fine tune the adjustments. Here's a helpful write up from member Blue, if they are SUs. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39221-quick-and-dirty-su-tuning/ Hope that'll help. You'll have to upload the video to youtube then link it here.

1st! Valve springs

I wish I new enough to take credit for all he knows!! That is from the brain of a member that goes by Blue. I'm just the middle man and president of his fan club here in Alabama. President vice president and secretary. I fold up the chair after meetings too.

Not too sure about the bottom bolt? Never tried that one. I think I would put a voltmeter on the battery and see what it's showing while running. Should read 14 volts or close. Cleaning all the grounds will help and doesn't cost anything. Cleaning the ground connectors is what I mean. Read through this, it's for fuel injection but you'll get the idea. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/electricalconnections/index.html