siteunseen

Good call. It looks like brown caulk to me.

Dang Jai, you just can't catch a break! So sorry to hear but I can top that by miles, the love of my life passed away Tuesday on the operating table. She had cancerous tumors and internal bleeding once they opened her up. I'd give my three Zs for my dog back. Life is tough, but we trudge along anyway. My days are getting better and better and I'm sure your's will too. Enjoy the small things and drink lots of alcohol. Kidding (not really)

Good news, for a change.

You're the best!

The whole kit is very reasonably priced to me. I just hope it comes with instructions!

FANTASTIC! I wanted to mount the big I have somehow but others talked me out of it. Now you have helped me again, I didn't know they made those.Which port did you use? I've plugged all of mine except for the brake booster. And I've already tapped them to NPT threads. Thank you, I love gauges!

Read through this,http://damonq.com/techsheets/red-kote.pdf, write down your plan because it's kind of time sensitive. Get some dollar store baking soda and a few empty 5 gallon buckets. A leaf blower works good to blow the soda and water rinse after the acid wash. Then pour in a quart of acetone, slosh it around dump it then hit it again with the blower or some kind of air. Pour in the red-kote, slowly rotate the tank to get good coverage then let all the excess drip out. Make sure the small tubes are not clogged with the liner. You'll have fun, just be really careful with the acid. Cliff

I agree with that! If you can get it done for anywhere near Hazmatt's price I'd jump on that. I spent $50 on 3 things, $30 for a quart of Red-Kote, $10 for a gallon of acid and another $10 for a quart of acetone. It's an all day thing too, well most of a day. Make sure the Red-kote or whatever liner's used has cured fully before adding fuel. I waited a week on the last one I did. If you can smell the liner, it's not cured yet. Set it out in the sun when you can to speed up curing time.

I'm no historian but all I've seen were blueish green, FWIW.

I saw this race car's set up so I'm sure the stock drums are adequate but a little outdated looking.

That's what I'm after to. Seeing the rotor and caliper through my Rewinds is nice looking up front, I want that in the back.

Boy oh boy! Can't wait to see what that finally goes for. I see a lot of neat idea in the pics. John Williams was quite a racer and just all around Z guy, from all I've read.

I have and like! 15" Rewinds on this car, the springs had a coil or two cut out. Those bigger calipers need the 16" wheels, I believe.

Need to add. When you put that Singer flat mount on, you don't have remove the cables. It mounts everything to the sheet metal tunnel, no longer attached to the console. If I remember right.

Do like Chuck says. Try to slide it back to the rear and see if that plug I showed you earlier is connected. Dont forget to remove the choke handle with a small screwewdriver.

Check out Zcardepot. Coms rear disc conversion. thats my Christmas present to the orang Z.

If you have the stock air filter you'll smell overflow before you see it, the overflow hoses go to the filter housing. As long as you aren't smelling a strong fuel smell you're probably okay.

Could it be running good now and getting up to temp, maybe burning off some built up oil somewhere? We call it a "redneck tune-up", put some high octane in the tank and run the $^!# out of it.

Same story with me, I had a '76 in high school. 25 years later I found one just like it on craigslist. Sold my motorcycle before I had the "big one". Now I have three Zs in my garage. Get this book and I guarantee you can rebuild it yourself if you have some tools. I'd never rebuilt a car motor before, lurked around on this forum followed the book word for word and it turned out fantastic. When I ran into something I wasn't sure about I'd ask for help on here, politely, and always got it figured out. There's guys on here daily that are the original owners of early 70's cars. It's amazing how much information is available on these little cars. Every problem has been fixed 100s of times by these guys. http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Your-Nissan-Datsun-Engine/dp/1931128030

I think he's using his own part numbers like MSA does. Looking at the pictures he has on ebay, they're 86-1812s or 86-1811s, rear and fronts. Here's a nice long thread on different struts http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/50944-the-strut-thread-koni-illumina-tokico-carrera-bilstein-ground-control/

The only issue I had was grinding some material off the transmission where the header was rubbing. That was on my 280 though. I haven't got to the 240 yet but I laid it all out like Jarvo did above and it looked to be identical to the stock exhaust. I sure hope it fits like it's supposed to.

Jai you cracking me up with those babies! My jailbird fluzie from that Richard Pryor and gene wilder movie.

That would look great. I don't know about blue with red interior.

I really like my MSA system, 6 into 1 header then 2.5. I enjoyed the loudness for a year or so but then I started driving it to work and having to leave out early in the mornings I was a little embarrassed. I had a muffler shop put a resonator in and am happy as ever with the sound. Cost $45.

And why all that came loose in the first place? Could weak springs cause all that havoc he's seeing? Or maybe the adjustment lock nuts came loose and the valves got waaaaaay out of spec allowing the lash pads to turn so that the valves were pushed farther down than normal. the rocker tips got out of the channel and were riding on the higher edges?