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Yes, it's an E88 I just cleaned up and put new valve seals in. The E31 is the main head, waiting on machinist to get some basic stuff done. (You know what I mean on that)!

Zed Head that makes sense for my car's need to add more fuel, it had a huge vacuum leak. But after fixing all that it still needed the potinometer to fine tune the stumble at 2000 to 2500 RPMS.

"Dodge is a damn fine car! I ran over my first wife with a Dodge"

My experience with clamping off the return line, it ran better with more fuel pressure. I put a potentiometer inline and it runs like a champ now. Can't speak about the leak down problem though. Steve you're are a true Southern Gentleman. You inspire me to do better things in my life. Cliff

The others are me!

Thank you, thank you! I have read a little more into the lapping process and of course my short attention only allowed me to buy the stuff and start lapping, instructions to the wind. Now I realize I should have lapped with the straight dope first, then mixed a little water and go finer. Amazon has those two sided cans for $12, oil based too. I need to think of something else to buy for free shipping, that'll take about 1 minute. Thank You Captain! Oh yeah, I went to Back Forty last night and had a blast. My life's not over yet, the more I work on these cars the more I can walk away from them.

I would put a fuel pressure gauge on your car. You can put one on a 4 foot piece of hose and zip-tie it to the driver's wiper arm and watch it while you drive. $10 dollars worth of stuff from Lowes, the gauge is in the pool supply section as a replacement for the pool's filter gauge. Please do that before you spend $270. There's a lot of folks that run an aftermarket pump without any problems. My $.02 worth, I bought a new Bosch for $250 and there was nothing wrong with the original. I had to put a potentiometer on the coolant sensor wire, $5 from Radio Shack to finally get mine to pull hard all the time. It's all right here, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm

Thank you Sir! After seeing that, I'm guessing they do. I tried lapping it a couple of times yesterday. It helped, I do believe. I'm going to try a more aggressive grit now.

Aww yeah, back like my favorite video.

Thank you for the offer, I'll keep that in mind because that's exactly what I bought ("Obviously")! I need to think more about my problem. I haven't tried any type of liquid yet, just the old mouth over hole redneck check. All of them, but that intake, I can suck until my eyes get blurry. That one, not as tight. I'll figure out how to measure the straightness of the valve first. Thank you.

I'm wondering if the valves rotate under tension while the motor is running. I had a leaky intake valve, turned it 180 degrees and now it's tightly sealing. When I put that head back in use will that valve possibly rotate in relation to the valve seat? Thanks

They all sealed up tight except #2 intake leaks a little. I'm about to do something stupid I know. I'm going to lap it without pulling it back through the valve seal. Q tips and patience hopefully will work.

That's very similar to what is on my 240 from Cullman, AL. Have you ever dealt with Paul's Auto Shop, Green Cove Road Huntsville, AL? I have receipts from where some other work was done from there in 2000.

That's really interesting. I found something that is close to what you have. They think the chain on the clutch disengages the cruise control. https://www.reddit.com/r/Datsun/comments/38shj5/what_the_hell_am_i_looking_at_1978_280z/

It's one of those things you just have to do to know what I mean. When I sat a new valve seal next to a bare valve guide I could judge where it should end up on the guide. Then using that other guys measurement of .550" from the top of the metal "barrel" base of the seals to the outer spring landing I had another reference point on the valve guides. The neat thing is both of those measurements hit at the bottom edge of the locking groove in the guides. So after lubing EVERYTHING, I pushed the valve through then put a cut in half "condom" over the valve tip. Put the lubed up seal over the end, holding pressure with my finger against the seal and valve tip I barely twisted the valve and it popped right through the rubber hole of the seal. Twisted it down onto the guide with my fingers as much as I could then with a 12mm deep well, I used a 13 the first time but the 12 was perfect, I started tapping until it covered the locking groove on the guide. Then went around the gap between the bottom of the barrel and the inner spring seat with angled feeler gauges, 026, 025, 020, 019 for 090" total. They are perfect I must say. They will stay up by themselves but if you tap the 2 that are next to each other on each cylinder they will do a slow motion styled fall until the valves hit the cardboard the head is sitting on. It's really easy once you get your feet wet.

Measure twice, cut once. That was so easy after I did some measuring. They look great and all drop at about the same rate, not staying up like the first two, too tight of a seal. .080" all the way around the seal bases and the inner spring seat. Thanks for the feedback, it gives me confidence. 8^)

Well I have a benchmark now, I read all the other pages of the thread on hybridz about those seals. I don't have an attention span. "I installed so the top of the steel barrel was about .550" above the height of the naked outer spring perch. This seems to leave plenty of room inside."

I'm glad you said that Blue, I couldn't figure out what he had. Is it a four barrel conversion?

Great! I love this forum. I actually thought about cutting a couple of flat washers last night. I can call some body shops and see if I can get one, or maybe the chain stores may have them? Thank you both! I'll get on this as soon as I can calm myself down enough. That's about the most nerve racking thing I've done in awhile. This is an educational endeavor for me, the E31 is next. EDIT: Hooray, the chain stores do have them. I would probably loose some blood if I tried to make my own.

The E31 & E88 came with the one on bottom, I think. The N42 had the newer design, the one on top. I bought an N42 that had been changed over to internal oiling cam and block off plates on the cam towers. Spray bars are prone to failure, so as Captain Obvious says "CHECK YOUR SPRAY BARS". Great looking motor you have there!

Those aren't made for an L head and if you drive them down too far the valve guide will cause them to "bulge" out between the little spring and the metal base of the seal. You can see the gap at the very bottom between the inner spring seat and the metal base of the seals. I'm worried I went too far. I'll put another, uninstalled one beside these and take a closeup picture to help judge, my eyes are finally showing their age.

If you can get $50 dollars worth of stuff from Advance Auto, put TRT30 in the coupon code when you check out and you'll get 30% off. Pick it up at your local store, no shipping charges. The good carpet is made by ACC and the best price I've found was on ebay.com. Rockauto.com is good, they may have the ignition switch? I got my rubber kit with a project car I bought. It came from from MSA as a whole kit, I've read they don't sale the kits anymore you have to buy it it in pieces like the hatch kit, the doors etc. I'm not 100% on that though. I've had my best luck with amazon.com, overall. Spend some time online, get the part numbers you want and google them for the best prices. In my experience.

Want any opinions on these seals before I go any further. Are they bulging too much? The valves will stay up by themselves so they are sealing pretty tight, I guess. I did #1 exhaust last night with a plastic piece of tubing to drive it down, bad decision. A 13mm deep socket works better, more control and the socket is perfectly even top and bottom. Thanks for looking.

Your pedals look look sorta worn, could be 160,000?

Thanks Rossiz but the seals I'm using have the metal base that can't be pushed down with your thumb. Most people use deep well sockets but I'm using a short piece of 1/2" PEX tubing. After seeing these I got the idea. Oh yeah, I've got the straw looking sleeves, cut in half, just enough to cover the stem's groove. I'm using Permatex assembly lube, that red stuff, and so far it's working great. I'm going oh so slow though.