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But doesn't heat expand metals, so an exhaust valve set at .10 cold will expand to .12 when hot on it's on?

What to do? Tom Monroe says do the run in set at the cold specs, then after you shut it off set to hot. I have a Schneider cam kit that I'll be using someday, , and the cam card says set the valves to cold specs too. It'll be awhile before I crank it so I'll read up and see what others are doing. I'm going to continue checking the wipe with them set at .10 and .08.

Okay, that makes sense. Before I crank it and run it 2,000rpm for 20 or 30 minutes I should set them on HOT specs. They are a little wider, great thinking. Thanks a million, again!

Hot??? I've read cold, a few times. I'm lucky this is my hobby. I've learned something I've never taken time to practice, patience.

I've been doing one then removing it. I turn the toe of the lobe 2 times over the pad. The dye barely comes that way, if I put moly lube it wouldn't I don't think.

Thank you for confirming what i was thinking. I over reacted a bit, anxious I guess. So far it's easy, just slow. Luckily I have 8 .175 lash pads and I had to use one so far. I think it maybe too thick but it brought the wipe closer to the valve side than the pivot end of the arm. Still not perfect but much better. I'm doing the easy ones first and using a spare rocker arm and a big screwdriver to compress the springs.

Dykem dye on the rockers contact pads first, let them dry. Grease the cam lobes. Do one rocker at a time. Should I put any grease on the painted rocker pad or leave them dry for the centering wipe check?

Mine would buck and stumble until it got over 2,500 rpms, then pull hard. I couldn't figure it out and carried it to a mechanic that worked on these cars back in the 80s. He adjusted everything back to spec and the problem was still there. He clamped the return line to raise the fuel pressure and it ran better. I almost bought an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the high dollar one that works on these cars, Airtex maybe? Anyway, after reading some post from Fastwoman about the ECUs drifting out of specs from heat and old age I put a potentiometer in the cabin from Radio Shack. Ran some speaker wire from the bullet connectors through the firewall, it is still laying in the passenger's floorboard. It's a volume knob type that cost $5. After playing around with it my car runs great now. I can turn it and get better gas milage on the highway, I can turn it and watch the temp gauge get cooler or hotter, it has been fun to play with. Now I want to permanetly install one under the dash, right before the ECU, with a finer adjustment using a small screwdriver. Like this, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/37549-purs-like-a-kitten/page-4 Post #66

More vulnerable to what, NOT getting away with cheating people? Good lawyers?

Thank you, thank you! Cliff

These 4" Pyles fit perfect in the spaces below the quarter glass on my 280. They came from Walmart for about $20 and are loud enough to overcome the exhaust howl. It needs more but without cutting anything, it sounds okay. I had a trunk box out of a BMW I had with 10" X-plodes laying in the rear of the hatch, but my dog likes to lay back there so they had to go.

A new mystery!

Is that good for something? Should I worry or buy a 240 tight side guide? Everything else seems to be the same. Thank you Chris, I thought that was a coolant pocket.

The new one for the 2.8 actually closes off more of that cavity. I think I have it backwards above.

Zedhead I can only find one small difference. The straight tight side guide has a little more indent the the OE one from the 2.4. It opens up a very little more on some hole in the front of the block. I'm gonna take some pictures to look at. Tell me what you think. I don't now what the purpose is of the hole. Thanks for the kermani tip. I'll look into that.

What would be different from a 2.4 kit versus a 2.8 kit? MSA shows one for '70 thru '74, then another for '75 thru '83. Thanks for any help, I've got the the one for the 2.8 but I need to put it on a 2.4. Do I need to buy another one? Maybe I can re-use the gears if they're different, that's all I can think of, the cam sprocket maybe because of the fuel pump. Thanks again, Cliff

That's funny you say that about LLCs in the name of a consumer type business, I feel the same way. It may as well read Datsun Parts BUYER BEWARE

Here's the write up for changing to the ZX distributor, it shows the basic steps you'll need to just pull the old one off. http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributor/index.html I've got the Cardone remanufactured one and it's like new, so yes they are fine. Here's one from Advance with a 30% coupon code, TRT30. Cardone Distributor - Electronic - Remanufactured Part No: 31-618 Warranty: LIMITED LIFETIME REPLACEMENTExact Fit for your 1977 Nissan 280Z x RemoveUpdatePick Up AtShip to Home$101.99$71.39TRT30:-$30.60 Product Subtotal:$71.39

It's no Ikea either, but it is cool.

Doing it right! Great job.

Just saw this on craigslist. M3 swap, http://atlanta.craigslist.org/sat/cto/5220606509.html

Is it reddish in color? Ity looks like a good one but I'm going with Nissan as much as I can, thanks Dizeased for that suggestion. i just got all the heater hoses the other day for half what everybody else is charging, I give the Nissan parts guy food on Saturdays when he's there by himself. He gives me the lowest price he can get away with. I'll trade my buddy's chicken for cheaper OE parts, he don't care anyway. I got a bunch of parts with a car I bought and have no idea what's what. It doesn't look like the cork gaskets on my SU float chamber lids.

Here's something to look at, you might find a part number, http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/distributorrebuild/index.html I bought one for a ZX off amazon.com for around $100. No cap or rotor button though but that was only $20 from a local chain parts store. If you take the cap off and suck on the vacuum line going to the distributor you can kind of see the plates move but actually you'll feel it better than seeing. You can tell the difference in your breathing. Sucking will make it move until it hits the sides, then it'll stop and you can't suck any more. Gigga Dee

I've not heard of many tachs going bad. It's usually something before the tach in the ignition. But it could be a bad tachometer? Many more potentials to consider before replacing the gauge. Hopefully some of the pros will join in.

Sorry