siteunseen

You can bypass the gas tank with a gas can. Run a hose from the gas can to the "IN" nipple of the pump, then run a smaller hose from the fuel rail's return line into the gas can. A 2.5 gallon plastic can fits perfect in between the radiator and grill on my 240. Or when it won't restart, pull the supply hose off and blow into it until you hear gurgling from the tank. I'll show you what was causing mine to quit after a few minutes then restart after all the crud settled. Not rust, it wouldn't stick to a magnet, just crud that would crumble like dirt in my fingers.

Funny how life works out for good folks.

Sounds like the flux capacitor to me, you need to go back to last week. Naw, I'm kidding. You'll have to give a lot more hints to the problem. I'd start by looking at the spark plugs.

I wish I could hear a squeak out mine now, too loud. Going one day this week and have a resonator installed.

Learned to put the head on a block on a cart with wheels.

My fuel light is to the right of the map light, under the clock. '77 280Z

Done! Had to use a lash pad off the p79, thinner brought it closer to the pivot end. They're not perfect by any stretch but they look good to me for a temporary e88. Learned some things too. Happy Hour has started at my local pub (my house).

Oh, okay you mean checking the wipe patterns with the hot specs. But I should go back to cold for the first cranking. Thank you Blue.

But doesn't heat expand metals, so an exhaust valve set at .10 cold will expand to .12 when hot on it's on?

What to do? Tom Monroe says do the run in set at the cold specs, then after you shut it off set to hot. I have a Schneider cam kit that I'll be using someday, , and the cam card says set the valves to cold specs too. It'll be awhile before I crank it so I'll read up and see what others are doing. I'm going to continue checking the wipe with them set at .10 and .08.

Okay, that makes sense. Before I crank it and run it 2,000rpm for 20 or 30 minutes I should set them on HOT specs. They are a little wider, great thinking. Thanks a million, again!

Hot??? I've read cold, a few times. I'm lucky this is my hobby. I've learned something I've never taken time to practice, patience.

I've been doing one then removing it. I turn the toe of the lobe 2 times over the pad. The dye barely comes that way, if I put moly lube it wouldn't I don't think.

Thank you for confirming what i was thinking. I over reacted a bit, anxious I guess. So far it's easy, just slow. Luckily I have 8 .175 lash pads and I had to use one so far. I think it maybe too thick but it brought the wipe closer to the valve side than the pivot end of the arm. Still not perfect but much better. I'm doing the easy ones first and using a spare rocker arm and a big screwdriver to compress the springs.

Dykem dye on the rockers contact pads first, let them dry. Grease the cam lobes. Do one rocker at a time. Should I put any grease on the painted rocker pad or leave them dry for the centering wipe check?

Mine would buck and stumble until it got over 2,500 rpms, then pull hard. I couldn't figure it out and carried it to a mechanic that worked on these cars back in the 80s. He adjusted everything back to spec and the problem was still there. He clamped the return line to raise the fuel pressure and it ran better. I almost bought an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, the high dollar one that works on these cars, Airtex maybe? Anyway, after reading some post from Fastwoman about the ECUs drifting out of specs from heat and old age I put a potentiometer in the cabin from Radio Shack. Ran some speaker wire from the bullet connectors through the firewall, it is still laying in the passenger's floorboard. It's a volume knob type that cost $5. After playing around with it my car runs great now. I can turn it and get better gas milage on the highway, I can turn it and watch the temp gauge get cooler or hotter, it has been fun to play with. Now I want to permanetly install one under the dash, right before the ECU, with a finer adjustment using a small screwdriver. Like this, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/37549-purs-like-a-kitten/page-4 Post #66

More vulnerable to what, NOT getting away with cheating people? Good lawyers?

Thank you, thank you! Cliff

These 4" Pyles fit perfect in the spaces below the quarter glass on my 280. They came from Walmart for about $20 and are loud enough to overcome the exhaust howl. It needs more but without cutting anything, it sounds okay. I had a trunk box out of a BMW I had with 10" X-plodes laying in the rear of the hatch, but my dog likes to lay back there so they had to go.

A new mystery!

Is that good for something? Should I worry or buy a 240 tight side guide? Everything else seems to be the same. Thank you Chris, I thought that was a coolant pocket.

The new one for the 2.8 actually closes off more of that cavity. I think I have it backwards above.

Zedhead I can only find one small difference. The straight tight side guide has a little more indent the the OE one from the 2.4. It opens up a very little more on some hole in the front of the block. I'm gonna take some pictures to look at. Tell me what you think. I don't now what the purpose is of the hole. Thanks for the kermani tip. I'll look into that.

What would be different from a 2.4 kit versus a 2.8 kit? MSA shows one for '70 thru '74, then another for '75 thru '83. Thanks for any help, I've got the the one for the 2.8 but I need to put it on a 2.4. Do I need to buy another one? Maybe I can re-use the gears if they're different, that's all I can think of, the cam sprocket maybe because of the fuel pump. Thanks again, Cliff

That's funny you say that about LLCs in the name of a consumer type business, I feel the same way. It may as well read Datsun Parts BUYER BEWARE