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I'll be carrying both the aluminium and the stock flywheel to my machinist today for resurfacing and his opinion. If the aluminum looks too far gone and needs a new friction plate I'll just use the stock one and save the aluminium for another day. I ordered an Exedy kit and a new non adjustable slave cylinder for the 280 5 speed I'm switching into my 240. Thanks for the replies.

This is on a miniature bowling alley. Patcon, it's for you!

Have you ever tried the Diamond Clear from Eastwood? I'm in the middle of sandblasting parts and love the look of fresh aluminum. I hope I'm not wasting my time. It looks good on my bench but I don't know about real world results with the heat. It does penetrate fresh aluminum and doesn't lay on top so I'm hoping it won't peel or flake. Turning yellow is my biggest concern. Thanks, Cliff

Had a good day playing with the blast cabinet, no sand in my nose or ears. The glass beads won't touch the undercoating on the transmission mount so next it'll be coal slag. That's on a 9 foot solid oak door that I got from a courthouse renovation we did in years ago.

Before I did the coolant tweak my would pop and stumble until 2500 RPMs then pull like normal. Try partially clamping the return line to build more fuel pressure, making it richer.

It'll stop a circular saw dead in it's tracks if I run into it.

Good point, reminder. I'm glad I have the blast cabinet. You can look close up with the window opposed to the blast pot I used the first time. Found 2 small cracks in the thermostat housing that are leaking onto the bolts that hold it on the head. Thank goodness I have extra parts. The diZease pays off once again!

I'm taking a few days off next week to get this motor back in the car. I'm a procrastinator amongst other things. So here's what I've done this morning instead of putting the rings on the pistons. I'm trying to learn the Chinese tricks, like kicking and shaking, banging against the table etc. Harbor Freight blast cabinet, NO MESS. Before satin Diamond Clear Coat

That's how I found one of the dumbest things I've done, so far. After a simple valve adjustment my car ran worse. I unscrewed the oil cap and nothing happened. Did the yogurt cup test, when I blew into the brake booster bung my hair parted from the air coming out from under the valve cover. I had put the valve cover gasket on upside down, they have a straight side and the off-set side.

I couldn't remember why I had a "T" on that end, I'd forgotten about the cold start valve. And this is all I could find for a thread sealant for brass into aluminum.

I've got mine where the heater hoses go through the firewall, zip tied. You'll need a long piece of vacuum line too.

If you have the '78 fpr it has one inlet. The smaller tube on the bottom is the return line. That's the only style I could figure out how to work with my aluminium fuel rail. I teed it off the back end closet to the windshield.

Good story, glad you shared it with us. Is it just me or do others see a resemblance?

Zcardepot.com, https://www.zcardepot.com/index.php?route=product/product&path=6_38&product_id=574 or his e-bay store, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Datsun-240Z-72-73-L24-Carb-Gasket-Spacer-Insulator-Set-Pair-Carburetor-OEM-618-/321868545288?hash=item4af0dc3d08&vxp=mtr Whoops! Carb spacers.

Me too! Worked great, or working great.

I have a Tilton flywheel I want to use on my 240. Street use only and I don't beat the 43 year old car. Stock or maybe a Centerforce II? Thanks for any replies. Cliff

Download to thumb drive and have your local office supply print and put in a tjree ringed binder. That's what I did and I think the FSM and the efi bible were around $40 from Office Max.

Apparently it's in place WHILE drinking because I was drinking when I posted that and keep having to go back a page and see what it says.

I was thinking "moderate" meant I was a calm drunkard?

My 280 has one and a full fan shroud, it cools really good. All the air from the fan comes through the radiator. My 240 has a 280 radiator and a full ZX shroud, hopefully the ZX 8 blade fan now that the A/C pulley is gone. I want to close up as much as I can and get all that air flow. I may get stuck in slow moving traffic one day, behind a tractor.

I have 15x7 Rewinds too, with 205/50s. Zero offset on a lowered 240, springs were cut, no problems. 16x7 Rewinds with 205/55s on this car, they rubbed on the lowered orange one but no problems on this car. I honestly don't like the 16" wheels, too much for my taste.

I have a door key zip-tied under all my cars, I lock them up all the time.

Mine has a knob at the bottom of the handle for regulating the pressure. A pattern knob on the left side up top. Flow knob on the back up top. I use more pressure but less material flowing. Get a big ole cardboard box and test spray until you're happy. For me very light coats work best. Tighten the material flow knob. At the worst, dig out the instructions. Oh yeah, I thin mine about half and half. Good article on set up, http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/set-up-hvlp.html

So they're that different? No way in hell different? You will save me a lot of time and probably a flat tire on my truck from the junkyard. Thanks Cliff

On the original pumps the post are different sizes to prevent switching poles. If you have them backwards on an aftermarket pump it would seem to me it would reverse the flow. Just guessing. I would pull the inlet line off the filter in the engine bay and see if gas shoots out. Maybe put in a gas can, 30psi coming out would be dangerous.