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Apparently it's in place WHILE drinking because I was drinking when I posted that and keep having to go back a page and see what it says.

I was thinking "moderate" meant I was a calm drunkard?

My 280 has one and a full fan shroud, it cools really good. All the air from the fan comes through the radiator. My 240 has a 280 radiator and a full ZX shroud, hopefully the ZX 8 blade fan now that the A/C pulley is gone. I want to close up as much as I can and get all that air flow. I may get stuck in slow moving traffic one day, behind a tractor.

I have 15x7 Rewinds too, with 205/50s. Zero offset on a lowered 240, springs were cut, no problems. 16x7 Rewinds with 205/55s on this car, they rubbed on the lowered orange one but no problems on this car. I honestly don't like the 16" wheels, too much for my taste.

I have a door key zip-tied under all my cars, I lock them up all the time.

Mine has a knob at the bottom of the handle for regulating the pressure. A pattern knob on the left side up top. Flow knob on the back up top. I use more pressure but less material flowing. Get a big ole cardboard box and test spray until you're happy. For me very light coats work best. Tighten the material flow knob. At the worst, dig out the instructions. Oh yeah, I thin mine about half and half. Good article on set up, http://www.how-to-build-hotrods.com/set-up-hvlp.html

So they're that different? No way in hell different? You will save me a lot of time and probably a flat tire on my truck from the junkyard. Thanks Cliff

On the original pumps the post are different sizes to prevent switching poles. If you have them backwards on an aftermarket pump it would seem to me it would reverse the flow. Just guessing. I would pull the inlet line off the filter in the engine bay and see if gas shoots out. Maybe put in a gas can, 30psi coming out would be dangerous.

Welcome aboard. Here's the Factory Service Manual and the EFI "Bible" for downloading or just viewing. Thanks to BLUE. http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/52471-fsms-are-available-here/ And another big help, thanks to Blue, with plenty of pictures and easily understandable directions. (I think he's from the South but won't admit it, says he's Canadian ) http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

I'm wanting a belly pan also. I'm pretty sure the 280s will fit, everything's the same under there. One day next week I'm going to a junk yard that has a few Zs left and see if I can find one, maybe two? They're easy to get on/off and there are a couple of 280s on top of other cars out there, so they should be easy to get to. If I have any luck I'll let you know. Well I guess I'll have to make one work. According to this there's a difference between 240s & 280s. http://www.zcarsource.com/splash-pan-240z-260z-280z-280zx_8_56005.html

Captain's Z has that Benjamin Button dizease.

Have you tried the salvage yard search then have it refreshed? I guess you're in a hurry though since you do say asap. Just a thought.

I hadn't bought them yet but all the answers I got were that Dave's were superior to the Black Dragon ones, using heavier gauge wires. Dave Irwin's site, http://datsun-240z-upgrades.net/ EDIT: I just read through an old thread from Mr Irwin, http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/18838-headlight-upgrade-harnesss-for-sale-again/page-1. He may be exclusive with MSA. If so, you'll get a 10% discount from MSA with your "Member ID" number. Look to the left under your avatar for the number. Yours is 30,331

I had to stop at 1:08, hopefully the bear ate that idiot! That was Sarah Palin.

I thought the same thing at first glance, looked like a black Retriever with his tongue hanging out. Then I clicked on the picture, it's "extra parts".

I don't get that channel? How long did it take Martha to make $1,700?

Great car! I've never rebuilt a carburetor before. Bought ztherapy's rebuild kit that comes with the "Just SUs" video. watched it a couple of times, rebuilt the carbs and put them on. Fired right up, after the bowls filled. http://www.ztherapy.com/ go to "videos", it's the best $25 you'll spend I promise. Before and after, sorta. I have an extra set for comparison in this picture after I cleaned the ones I rebuilt.

From Fastwoman's post in a thread I found, "There's a quick way to test for vacuum leaks. When you get your new AFM and boots, first connect up just the boot that goes to the throttle. Then stuff something (I use a yogurt cup) inside the boot opening to block the air. Pull off the vacuum hose to the brake power booster, and attach a hose to the manifold that you can stand to put in your mouth. Then blow into the manifold like you're inflating a balloon. The pressure will build, until you can't blow anymore. Just hold the pressure there, and see how long it takes to dissipate. It should take probably 15 sec or more for most of the air to leak back out. Then pull off the little vacuum hose beside the brake booster hose, and repeat the test. You'll see/hear/feel lots of air coming out through that little nipple, and the air pressure should leak down MUCH, MUCH faster. If there is a dramatic difference between the two, your intake and engine are tight. If the difference isn't very dramatic, you have a leak somewhere."

While you have the covers off you could clean the contacts in the combo switch. It helped my 280's headlights get brighter and also my gauge lights. This is for a 240 but it's pretty much the same. Read through it and look at the pictures of where the carbon builds up. It's not very hard to do, be careful bending the tabs to open up the switch though. I broke one of mine but luckily it stayed together. http://www.kamikazeracing.org/dl/ZTech/Rebuild_240Z_combo_switch.pdf

Thank you, I get one every now and then. Something I learned on the one I'm doing now, and I think someone else and I spoke about it in another thread, is to cut up small pieces of paper and write the contents on that then put it inside the baggie. My Sharpie smeared on the baggies during the 280 rebuild, greasy hands caused me a lot of headache a few years ago. I'm too cheap to buy the label type Ziplocs.

I've got a '77 too, great cars. This guy has a '77 and he's done everything imaginable to his. Took great pictures and explains things even my dumb arse can figure out. Here's the page, http://atlanticz.ca/index.php/tech-tips.html

Usually when they pop through the throttle body or AFM, you have a vacuum leak causing it to run leaner. Check the accordian boot that connects the two, it could be cracked or on crooked. Look for any other cracked or disconnected vacuum hoses. If you don't see something obvious, search for "yogurt cup test". You shove a cup into the opening of that accordian boot where the AFM connects to the throttle body, sealing up the system. Then you can pull the brake booster hose off and blow into that bung. Listen for hissing sounds.

When my balls get tempered I have to tuck them into my socks.