siteunseen

Looks pristine to my eyes, just like my '72 when I first bought it. A little dark from being parked for 10 years.

I agree with that. Probably the last "good guys" out of state business I'll ever use. I called with a question some years ago and they gave me Mr. Bruce Palmer's personal cell phone number. He answered on the 3rd ring, answered my question/problem and over-nighted new valves at his expense. A+ Better Business Bureau.

He bought it in "72 but it has the vertical rear defrost lines? Maybe an earlier car. Weird choice of pictures too, IMHO. Still worth a look for someone in that area.

Count me too on body color. That's the first thing I notice when I see an open hood. Black is a negative, something was done at some point to this car, half way kind of job. I've used a small HVLP cup gun from Harbor Freight with good results. $15 well spent. I could dial it in to a pattern no bigger than a thumb tack. Still have that little baby!

Here's the dead giveaway I've seen most often. The metal tang on top of the floats are bent up like a ramp and they shouldn't be. The higher up the less fuel, the needles get pushed in too soon cutting the flow. Here are some pictures I found that will help. This is what you do not want, This is what they look like new so you want them close to this, I say they should look like a speed bump, not a ramp. The needle should be able to move smoothly over the tang up and down like a speed bump.

This is a lot of reading but you'll be a pro when you read it all. https://www.google.com/search?q=240z+float+levels+classiczcars.com&rlz=1C1BOFA_enUS494US494&oq=240z+float+levels+classiczcars.com&aqs=chrome..69i57.12013j1j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8

I can't get anything through! The site is acting up.

I will admit I've never tried adjusting the levels with the knobs but I suppose you could? It's lower though, counterclockwise towards the fenders to drop the nozzles adding more fuel. You say "on" maybe that meant out?

Is it the lighting or a stand in on that balcony last night?

Here's another shot

Your bowls look shallow to me, kinda hard to tell looking at the photos though. They should be about half full. Even with the top of the square in this pic, green arrow pointing down to 23 mm red line.

I had the same problem, on the garage floor. I thought I had a wrong 5 speed. It was tough.

They are Z pipes on a Z. I bet he couldn't do ZX pipes.

When it gets older it'll have this to deal with.

I watched a Jason Bourne movie yesterday, love those. Donald Trump will never leave Walter Reed. The powers that be, the CIA, have deemed him a danger to our country. Boom! There's your October surprise.

What if these experimental drugs take out our top leaders as they get treatment? Bueller.

Half of Alabama doesn't like Cam Newtown, he beat the university of Alabama resulting in an Auburn jersey placed on Bear Bryant's statue in Tuscaloosa. In turn that crazy Harvey Updike poisoned the most famous thing in Auburn. The Toomer's Corner trees. I like Cam Newtown. He's a football star here so I hate to hear he had contacted covid. Maybe they can get Brady back as a fill in?

Seems like the dissidents are getting what they've wanted???

You are right Zed, I apologize for my impetuous comment.

Another option for that setup. The holes could be notched too. That allows the larger valves to work with the smaller bores without contact. Agree with Diseazed, you need confirmation before purchasing.

Are you saying "too soon" after the d*** punch on Biden's sons? "Come on man!"

So we're going to avoid the elephant in the room/hospital?

From all I've read on this forum I'll say yes. The short block for sure. You'll want the carbs and intake manifold of the '71 so all your linkage will stay the same. The only thing different on a '73 is the bumpers and those side draft carbs. I'm sure I'll be corrected which will give you the answers you're looking for.

Looks good! Your's is the right color blue too. @Captain Obvious makes fun of my baby blue. That leveler scared the bejesus out of me when I first used it, popping and jerking about with my motor hanging over my 280. I tweaked it a little and used a socket instead of the turn handle. Scraped the paint off the bottom where the roller is. That made it smoother. Then I used some axle grease on the roller and the bottom, even smoother. Socket on the other end too.

I can chime in here. I do mine by myself too and Zed Head is, as always, 100%. Also mark around you hood hinges before removal and it'll go back just fine, no alignment problems. If you'll read this one page of my build thread you can see a great photo and advice from @Jeff G 78 and then my OCD rambling but it worked perfect at the end of the day. EDIT: after reading that again myself there's a whole slew of great advice from the guys on this forum. Click on the "April 7, 2016" reply. Take your time and all possible precautions. Good luck with the install.